Arne

Nope, no service manual here at work.

Not after the nuts are properly tightened, no. The sleeves will be tightly clamped between the body on top and the big washer on the bottom. It won't be going anywhere.

The hose would need to have a flare-type fitting on the end, and would need to come straight out of the back side of the caliper. Because the hose can't make sharp turns, it would be very prone to damage. The steel "S" line is a reasonable way to get around this. I see no possible benefits, and several possible drawbacks.

I'm with Jon on this. I tried disconnecting the stock rear bar for auto-crossing my old graymarket BMW 323i - one time. I was, like you mention, attempting to reduce inside wheel lift and wheelspin. It did help with wheelspin, but it messed up the handling so bad (pushed hard) that I reconnected it before the next run. In the end, I swapped a limited slip into that car. That was the ticket, made a huge difference.

The on-side kick was a gutsy call - took everyone by surprise. Lots of lame commercials, though. I think my fave was the early Doritos one with the dog and the shock collar.

Are you perhaps talking about the difference between the diameter of the body-stud and the inside diameter of the sleeve being bigger and not a snug fit? If so, you need to consider that how snug the sleeve fits over the stud means nothing - all the stud does is provide the means to tighten the sleeve to the body. It provides no strength in and of itself.

I've got a pair of the bolt sets. Missing one of the two cupped washers/rubber sealing washers. Not pretty plating, but they'd work, and the price would reflect that. Shoot me a PM, if you still need 'em.

That was us yesterday, Jon, 62 and sunny. Broke the record high for the date. Not as nice today, but way nicer than what the East coast is getting.

Yeah. The snowpack in the mountains around here is averaging about 45% of normal. They aren't predicting a drought yet, but if it doesn't start snowing soon...

It's not just limited to those who show their cars. In fact, those who routinely attend dedicated Datsun or JDM shows may not get this much at all.But if you participate in mixed-make shows, and especially if yours is the only Z in the show, it can happen. And it doesn't have to be at shows. I found my current red 240Z this way - rather I should say that the previous owner found me. He saw me working on my previous car in my driveway, and the discussion started from there.

I hope you don't regret the not having a yellow one at some point, Marty. I still find myself looking at yellow 240Zs, especially early 919 like yours. My 905 red is nice, but yellow...

So unlike the poor, snowed-in folks on the East coast, I am able to drive my car today here in Western Oregon. And since this thread brought this back to mind, I spent some time experimenting with coils and such. The good part is that - after doing a little work to maximize voltage (minimum voltage drop) to the Ignitor (the red wire), I have finally been able to make it run correctly with the 1.5Ω coil/resistor combination. So Zforce's thought about low voltage being a cause appears to be at least partially confirmed. I consider this to be a good interim step. At least this way there's no concern about damaging various components such as the coil or the tach. While doing this, I got to thinking about things like the resistor and the tach, and I'm not certain about a few things. It appears to me that the four wire tachs (which measure at an inductive loop) probably shouldn't have any problems when run w/o resistor. Indeed, my experience would seem to confirm that. I don't know enough about how the three wire tachs work to say whether the increased voltage running to them might hurt or not. Barring further info, I think I'd err on the side of caution if I had a car with a three wire tach and stay with the 1.5Ω coil and resistor. After getting it working with the stock coil and resistor, I then re-installed my 3Ω Pertronix coil and bypassed the resistor. And even with the higher voltage to the Ignitor, this combo again failed to run under load at higher RPM. Acts like a rev-limiter at about 4000. Now I will concede that it is possible that I have a bum coil. But this made me ask myself why we even use the resistors anyway? I've always heard that they were only there to improve the lifespan of the points. So - no points, no need for a resistor? The instructions with the Pertronix coil say that the 3.0Ω coil can be used on 4 & 6 cylinder engines for "normal" use w/o a resistor. The 3.0Ω is not recommended for "racing" use on a 4 or 6 cylinder. The 1.5Ω coil should be used with resistor for "normal" use, and w/o for "racing". The makes me think that neither the 3.0Ω alone, or the 1.5Ω w/resistor are going to perform well at high RPM. And unlike the pushrod British 6 cylinder engines that are a big part of their market, I'd submit that even a stock L24 is closer to a "racing" application than it is to "normal". Considering all of this, both to ensure long-term component reliability as well as giving multiple options, if I do it again I think I'll buy a 1.5Ω coil and use it either with or without the resistor, as seems appropriate.

Not 70 here, more like 50 and cloudy. But I'm heading to the barber and will take the Z...

If I read what you wrote correctly, yes. The way I've tried to learn this is that the throwout bearing collar and the pressure plate need to be matched. The rest is mostly irrelevant, but I can see the advantages to the later slave and fork. Going back to the original Type A, Marty? Can I ask why?

Very logical. That makes sense.

I won't say it...

Maybe. Where in Oregon are you? Send me a PM.

It's still the original one that came with the car. I don't remember where I found it or why it wasn't in the early pictures. Don't know where you can find them today.

We're close. Looks like we'll miss the previous ETA by a day or two. Final payment has been mailed, and the product should be shipped to me early next week. I'll then spot check a couple for quality and begin shipping.

I'm not sure. I've seen the one you describe. But all three of my cars (from 10/70 through 7/71) had the resistor attached below the coil.

What year and model?

OK, that means it probably conformed to '71 emissions standards, so it would have come with the Summer/Winter flipper on the airbox, and without the "2400" cam cover. That would make it virtually identical to my red '71 as it was when I bought it, except for things like the '1971' date code on my original plug wires. The first 5 pictures are as it was when I bought it. The only non-original things visible there are the battery, oil filter and possibly the fuel hoses to the carbs. If you look closely at fifth picture you can even see the "1971" date on the #6 plug wire (near the top of the picture). The sixth picture is how it looks today. I'm not crazy about the blue NGK wires, but haven't done anything about that yet. The airbox stickers have been replaced, and all the coolant hoses are modern non-braid-covered. If you look closely you'll see a Pertronix coil and the wire to the Pertronix in the distributor, as well as a later plastic fan and clutch. The pictures I attached are fairly large to see best detail. Make sure you open them in a separate window.

What's the build date of your '70, Brad? There are some differences between early and late '70.

On the other hand, some L24s (depending on the year and whether the pistons have been replaced before) may have valve pockets in the pistons. So what you describe as "dents" may be normal. But the resistance while turning the crank is not normal, and needs to be investigated.

If I'm going to drive 900 miles each way, fuel, motels, food, etc., what's another $10-20 bucks as an entry fee? That certainly would not be the deciding factor for me.