Arne
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Everything posted by Arne
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Years ago, this was a concern of mine as well. But I've since come to the realization that a simpler way to deal with this is to simply drive a more reasonable speed. If you need to drive fast, take it to the track. -
If the rust is minimal and non-structural, it's probably worth every bit of $7000. Rust (or hopefully, lack thereof) is key, but you appear to already know that. As a side note, a $5000 budget is an inconvenient limit these days, as most cars I see around that price need significant work, generally for rust repair. Around these parts a $5000 240Z is typically a decent looking car with rust in the doglegs and under the battery. An extra $2k to avoid that would be money very well-spent.
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You're welcome, folks. I decided way back that I wanted one of these for myself bad enough to take on the project, knowing that it may not succeed, and that the road might be bumpy. It has been more work than I expected, but now that the end appears to be in sight, I can say that it wasn't too bad.Of course, I still need to live through shipping them all once they get to me....
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No Carl, I'm afraid not. I had hopes early on that we'd have them by now, but that all went sideways when the original dies turned out to be un-usable. Re-creating it all from scratch has taken some time. I think we are close, now.
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Here's a new but related question - has anyone tried to get a set of the Appliance caps re-chromed? I now have a set of four, one has a couple of dimples to work on, and all four are a bit rusty although far less rusty than most. I don't know if any chrome shops are willing to work on cheap small parts like these.
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All pending payments have arrived. Only one left unsold. Updated availability stats (12/19/09): Item | 240-Z | DATSUN | Total | ------------------------------------------- Ordered | 40 | 24 | 64 | Paid for | 40 | 23 | 63 | Pending | 0 | 0 | 0 | ------------------------------------------- Available | 0 | 1 | 1 |
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Did you use a dark primer? That can make a difference, too.
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Updated availability stats (12/18/09): Item | 240-Z | DATSUN | Total | ------------------------------------------- Ordered | 40 | 24 | 64 | Paid for | 40 | 22 | 62 | Pending | 0 | 1 | 1 | ------------------------------------------- Available | 0 | 1 | 1 |
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Had an order adjustment. Updated availability stats (12/17/09): Item | 240-Z | DATSUN | Total | ------------------------------------------- Ordered | 40 | 24 | 64 | Paid for | 40 | 21 | 61 | Pending | 0 | 2 | 2 | ------------------------------------------- Available | 0 | 1 | 1 |As this now reflects, the 240-Z are all sold or reserved, and there is now only a single remaining DATSUN sunshade available.
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Early Z's like your '70 do not have a low-fluid sensor, so the red light coming on means that there is a failure in the hydraulic system. Most likely one half of your brake system is not working. You will need to do some troubleshooting to figure out which half and why.
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I merged the threads. No need to clutter the forums.
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Yup. Fixed it.
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Updated availability stats (12/16/09): Item | 240-Z | DATSUN | Total | ------------------------------------------- Ordered | 40 | 24 | 64 | Paid for | 38 | 22 | 60 | Pending | 1 | 2 | 3 | ------------------------------------------- Available | 1 | 0 | 1 |
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We need to make clear a distinction here - there is a difference between a true non-emissions L24 and a de-smogged emissions L24. Yes, the factory spec for a non-emission L24 is 17° BTDC. But that doesn't translate directly to a de-smogged emissions L24 unless you do it completely - to include either installing the non-emissions distributor with it's different advance curve, or re-curving your emissions distributor.
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I noticed an improvement after a few months. It still takes a firm shove even now, a year and a half later.
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That's a firm "maybe". Depends on a number of things, not the least of which is what distributor (and advance curve) you are using. Many 240Zs will tolerate that much advance, but some won't. I'd advance it a few degrees at a time until you start hearing a bit of detonation, then back it off a couple. FWIW, I'm running my late '71 with the stock '71 dizzy (w/Pertronix) at 12° BTDC.
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Looks like an early '74 260Z from the taillights...
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Your two carbs are so far out of sync that the front carb isn't doing anything. Try to begin your adjustments with the front carb.
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A better photo might be nice for comparisons, if not too difficult to get.
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In my experience, the satin clear coat is still way too glossy. I used the special tail panel trim paint from Classic Datsun when I did mine a couple years ago. I felt even that was too glossy, and worked hard to lay it on very dry to reduce the gloss. I've been told that later batches of the paint from CDM have reverted to Les' original low-gloss formula. (My batch was mixed by a different paint guy as the one who knew what he was doing had been deployed to Iraq. He's back now, I'm told.) It's more money than the graphite wheel paint, but probably gives better results than the satin clear coat.
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Well, the 240-Z is better, but the 4 still strikes me as being odd. The latest DATSUN looks good, and matches the BRE car logo pretty well. But what it doesn't match is my memory of how the DATSUN lettering on these sunshades looked in the old days. I still think that the either the DATSUN in posts #106 or #114 look closer to my memory. As for the 240-Z, again I keep going back to #106 as being the most consistent from character to character, still looking like what I remember. And in reality, I have not yet confirmed that the maker of these can accept an image file like this to created the necessary stencils from. I can certainly make suggestions based on the work here, but may need to trust him to tweak his fonts to try to match whichever we settle on here.
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We're down to only one single 240-Z sunshade left that is not spoken for. Last call!
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Don't be sorry. In this case, nit-picking is good. We want to come up with the best possible compromise, since the original stencils aren't available. (That would have been best, we all know.)After reading Adam's comments, I think I agree. While I like the slightly oval'd shape of the zero in the ones in post #121, in most every other way I prefer either post #106 or posts #113 (240-Z) and #114 (DATSUN).
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While original is obviously best, to my mind the dash pad is like the paint. When the original paint or dash is no longer good enough, have it redone in the best manner possible using today's better materials. I too would have a bit of a problem paying more for an un-cracked replacement than I would to have mine re-covered, for fear that the replacement would crack again at some point.Paint has been done on mine, I suppose the dash is only a matter of time...
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It's not original style, but MSA will sell their downpipe for the flanged exhaust separately for about $60 or so if you call them. Might not be exactly what you are after, but it would have the flange you need and give you something to work with.
