Arne

http://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech/aim/aim.html

I did alignments for a few years. Jon is correct, the alignment tech will enjoy working with this stuff. Makes his job much easier, and he can do a much better job.

For today's street gas, 10.0:1 is about as far as you can safely go. The chamber shape isn't as advanced as newer engines.Unless you build a custom ignition with knock sensors. But that's not very budget friendly. Triples (Weber, Mikuni, Dellortos, or OER) are definitely the way to go for max performance, but they aren't cheap. Used sets often go for $800 or more, and may need to be rebuilt. You might consider sticking with a pair of stock SUs to begin, and move to triples later.

Many (maybe most) '70 240Zs did not come with any decals or labels on the airbox. Those didn't show up until after several months of production.

The full-auto I have in my car now is an aftermarket Harada #HR-22. I found it at a local clearance house. Same size and mounting as the factory unit, which was also made by Harada. Don't know that they still make the one I got. I paid all of $33 for it.

I too think the KYBs are a good OE replacement choice. But be warned - since they are a gas-charged shock they will quite likely raise your car's ride height by about 1/2" (12-15mm) or so when used with stock springs. Not that you have much choice, all of the OE replacement choices are gas-charged. But don't be surprised if that happens.

Sounds like you need to go with a different muffler to me.

You have to take the antenna unit out of the car, and pretty much disassemble the spool case to get the mast off. If the mast isn't bent up but doesn't go up or down, the likely cause is that the nylon/plastic/whatever spool cord-thing inside has become brittle and broken. I've been told that it is possible to replace the spool-cord with really heave weed-whacker string, but have no experience doing that. My original broke about 8" from the end, so I just shortened it. My antenna now works, but is about 8" shorter when fully extended. Of course, I then changed the radio and replaced it with a full auto unit instead. Replacement masts used to be available from Nissan, but have been NLA for a few years now. If you find a source for the original 240Z masts, please share.

I'd guess that it is far more likely that the spring is broken rather than missing. These springs are fairly stout, so I don't know if it will be easy to find a suitable non-factory replacement. In the other hand, I don't know if they are still available from Nissan, but the part number for all four speeds and all five speeds through '78 is 32830-20100 which retails for less than $2. Each transmission uses three of these springs. I'm guessing the ZX 5 speeds use the same springs. The detent ball is 32829-26760 which also fits all those same transmissions. Assuming that your spring is either broken or missing, you should be able to change it in the car. Remove the plug carefully while the transmission is in neutral, stick a small magnet in the hole to remove any pieces and also the existing ball (if any), then install the new parts and re-install the plug.

Well, I/we have been waiting on payments now for a month. While we are very close, I still need 3-4 more pre-paid before the amount left over is low enough that I feel I can pay the difference and have that amount tied up for the 8-12 weeks that I suspect it will take to sell off the unsold items. No new payments have arrived since the middle of last week, despite the fact that several people still have out-standing reservations. Frankly, I'm more than a little discouraged and irritated, and am THIS close to calling the whole thing off. I will be contacting (again) the people who have previously expressed an interest but not yet paid. But it all comes down to this—if we can't get payment for AT LEAST 3 more by this time next week, the jig is up. :mad:

Actually, I see it the other way. Better late getting here than never...

Actually, the one Black Dragon sells is totally generic. The very same part number is listed in their RX-7 catalog as fitting all RX-7s, in their Sunbeam Alpine/Tiger catalog as fitting all Alpine/Tigers,in their Chevy/GMC truck catalog as fitting all single headlight Chevy/GMC trucks, in their MGB catalog...I'm sure you get the idea by now.

I agree, I no longer bend as well as I did back in those days, either. But still well enough to do this kind of stuff, even if I pay for a day of this work with two or three days of soreness...

I guess. On the other hand, I have swapped a 240Z tranny in 4 hours in my garage (no lift). So if it were me, I'd probably install it and drive it to assess it before spending the money to rebuild it.Of course, if it did need to be rebuilt, I'd do that myself as well. (And have, but only a 4 speed.)

Well, we're very close, still holding at 37 paid for (61%). No payments since the 27th. I've got names and reservations for 6 more people, 10 more sunshades. Three of the six have indicated some time back that they would be sending their checks "soon". The other three I have heard only the sound of crickets chirping in the distance. So I guess I'm saying - if a few of you folks who have expressed an interest in these at some point in the process would break down and send a check, we'd be there. Not naming names, but I got to admit that this lack of follow-through is disappointing.

PIAA used to make a dual light, that had a driving light and fog light in the same housing. But something with a cornering light? I've never heard of any.

At various times over the past 30+ years, I've used Autopals, as well as Hella, Cibié, Bosch, Stanley, Wipac, Lucas, Neolite, Marchal, and Carello. All of those were used in the 7" round size. I prefer Hella, with Cibié a close second. As I recall, the Autopals were OK, no glaring flaws. Actually, ANY halfway decent H4 E-code light will far exceed any sealed beam, even sealed halogens. I have a pair of vintage Cibié in the Z now, as the Hella don't look at all period-correct.

Not bad at all. Some interesting points - the spare tire appears to be the original Toyo Z-1. And I see a Michelin XAS on the left rear. Those were big dollar high performance tires 25-30 years ago. Somebody wasn't afraid to spend money on the best stuff.

The guy building that car was building his dream. He knew what he wanted, and set out to do it. He got farther than most people, before something happened to change the dream, or life changes forced him to abandon it. Problem is that it is mostly worthless to anyone who doesn't share that particular dream. Sad truth is than since the car was not finished, it's going to probably end up being sold for parts. Sad, but that's the most likely.

Well, you may not be happy with anything, then. For a wide, broad beam, fog lights are your only choice, but they don't throw light out very far. Often only 30-50 feet. They are designed to cut under the fog and light up only right in front of the car. Driving lights have lots more range, but very little light to the sides.I still think that a good E-code light (Hella, Cibié or Bosch) will give you the best all around lighting. Here are a couple of threads on this. (Disclaimer, I posted heavily in both of these threads as well, saying much the same things. No, I don't work for any lighting companies! ) http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=21783 http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=35052

Looks like decent weather coming up for the next 4-5 days here in Oregon (dry, highs around 60 in Eugene), so you may be past the worst of it. If you end up in the Eugene-area once you arrive, send me a PM. Maybe we could meet for lunch or something.

Either the sellers don't know what they are talking about, or they're counting on the buyers to not know any different. No. Completely different functions and beam pattern. A fog light must have a horizontal cut-off to be any good at all, and such a cut-off would ruin the function of a driving light and vice-versa. Yellow or amber lenses are not needed for fog lights. The color is irrelevant, it's all about the beam pattern.

Driving lights shoot a long beam for distance, can only be used to supplement high beams. True fog lights do a very broad beam that only lights up the road very close to the car. They do not overlap in function. I gave up on auxiliary driving lights over 30 years ago. Moved to E-code headlights instead. With good headlights, auxiliary driving lights are rarely needed. Yes, the high beams are that much better.

My '71 did not come with one. I've always assumed they were aftermarket.

The 'S' is a speed rating, 113 MPH in this case. (The 'H' for the later tires is 130 MPH. The 'R' simply means Radial.) When the aspect ratio (the '70' in 175/70-14) isn't specified, 80% is implied. So a 175SR14 tire is equivalent to a 175/80-14.