Arne
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Everything posted by Arne
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Please post back how your floor-flattening turns out. My passenger side has that problem as well. -
I'm sorry, I don't get this. How can a radically modified Z with the latest 21st century technology be the "Car of the '70s"? Not just the BOZ, but almost all of those vehicles. There's darned little '70s left in any of those. No meaning to this at all, to me. Just my opinion, YMMV.
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Well, with the stock alternator in my car with the lights, wipers and heater fan going, everything was slow, dim, or both. Sitting at a light with the turn signal on was almost painful to look at. My car is quite fine with the ZX internally regulated alternator. Regardless of what NAPA says, if your alternator is an externally regulated unit, I strongly doubt that the output at idle will be able to keep up. (We'll ignore the fact that I have never heard of a 60 amp externally regulated alternator for a Z.) If adding just a few revs brings things back to "normal", I can't think of anything that you could do to remedy this short of upgrading the alternator. The reality is that what you describe is normal for a stock 240Z.
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Richard, that's quite normal for the stock 240Z alternator. It doesn't have the output at idle to keep everything at full bright. Actually not that unusual for many cars of this vintage. The only real cure for this is a higher output alternator. I think the stock output on a '72 was 45 amps. (My '71 was only 40.) I have a 60 amp 280ZX alternator on my 240Z to aleviate this issue, and also to power the H4 headlights. Pretty much a bolt-on deal except that you need a voltage regulator bypass.
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So far, not quite half of the people who indicated a desire have contacted me for this second (more detailed) round. Still waiting...
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Lots of PMs sent. Check your inboxes...
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Things are firming up. Prices including postage in the USA - $36 for the first one, $33 each for the next two. For more than 3, or shipping outside the USA I'll try to figure it based on the number and/or destination desired. In other words: One - $36 Two - $36 + $33 = $69 Three - $36 + $33 +$33 = $102 Four or more - ?? I'll be sending a PM shortly to all who voted in the poll or posted here in this thread with a number of questions prior to asking for the money. Things like Real name, shipping address, etc. For anyone reading this who has not posted or voted, no problem. Just send me a PM and I'll add you to the list. As of now, we are still looking for more orders for "280-Z", the current count is at 10, so we are half way to the minimum. If we can get a bit closer than that, I think I can figure a way to swing it.
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I haven't done this on the Z, but have had some success in the past with dedicated glass polish applied via foam pad on an orbital buffer. I've also heard that some of the products for spots on glass shower doors will do the trick. I *THINK* most use a mild phosphoric acid solution, but please don't try that relying on my memory alone!
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I'm still holding out for 280-Z for those that want it, Michael. I have noted your offer to get two if needed. I'll factor that in.
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Time to discuss payment options. I would really rather not have to upgrade my PayPal account to accept plastic or to have this kind of dollar amount (60 x $35 = $2100) moving around. PayPal's cut is significant as well, so I'd need to build that into the pricing. I guess I will do all that if I have to, but would it be a big problem for any of you if we do this by checks and money orders instead of PayPal?
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I've been in touch with the manufacturer, and it looks like we'll still be OK with the smaller quantity! Still limited to a minimum of 20 for any given logo, so 260-Z is definitely a no-go, and 280-Z is iffy at this point. As I see it now, there are two options for the 280-Z units. We have votes for 7 units now, but need 20. So we either need to find more buyers, or perhaps the 280-Z votes could move to DATSUN? Because of the lower quantity, price will probably be $35 or $36 each, shipped. Still firming that up now. Will be three weeks manufacturing time from when I place the master order until they are shipped to me, then more time on my end while I sort and ship. So all you who want them, get prepared to send money, it looks like it will happen!
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Much has changed in the chemical makeup of paint over the past 4 decades. A formula that was passably close 30 years ago may not look so good when used with today's paints. Safari Gold is not the only color that suffers from this problem, most if not all of them do. In my case, my painter started with a commercial formula for 905 red, but then custom tinted it to match the underside of the toolbox lids. The results were quite good.
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The E12-80 (just like the Pertronix) only needs two wires. A switched power lead connected to the terminal on the module marked 'B', and a trigger wire to the negative terminal on the coil from the terminal on the module marked 'C'. Generally, you can use the original lead wire that went to the points for the coil trigger wire, and then just run a new wire from the positive terminal of the coil to the 'B' terminal on the module. Done this way, you should have no problems with the tach as long as the tach is good and the original wiring to it is unmolested.
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I'd agree. It can be fixed, with time, effort and new metal. Not many of us on the West coast of the USA would attempt to repair a car that far gone, there are still too many available that are better. But in other parts of the world, such as you in the UK or people in the USA rust belt, there may not be anything better available.
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No, the small drain holes had no plugs. I'd be afraid that plugging those would allow condensation to collect inside the hatch, promoting rust in there instead.
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What size pipe are you running? That will also make a difference in sound. As for fit, I have a 24" glass pack running below and next to the driveshaft in my car, no issues at all.
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A nice thought, but therein lies the fallacy. People who would find and visit your museum are already enthusiasts, and probably know a fair amount about Zs or they wouldn't be interested in seeing them.I'm still of the opinion that the best way to promote these cars, and build enthusiasm in currently non-Z auto enthusiasts is simply to drive them. Get them out on the road, in normal, ordinary use. Get people to see them. Hiding them in a museum is like preaching to the choir.
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If I can pull this off, the final order won't be placed until people have sent money enough to ensure that I can cover. So you don't need to have been in the poll to get one.
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All strips would be pre-cut to the S30 windshield shape in this order. The 710 windshield would be very different and one-offs will not be available.
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Good news, people! Still looking possible at the lower number. Working on the details now. More news when it's available.
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My answer will vary depending on the parameters. Am I allowed to take my museum cars out on the road now and then, or must they stay inside, hermetically sealed and preserved?
