Arne

I moved this thread into the ZX area, and corrected the title.

No. Fusible link is all or nothing. Won't repair itself temporarily after charging the battery. Sounds like a short somewhere in the wiring is draining the battery overnight.

17 digit VINs with a standardized format were required in the USA starting in 1981. Before that, it was manufacturer's choice.

24012-E4602 is listed as correct for 1-71 through 12-71 manual transmission cars. Offhand, I can't think of any significant wiring changes under the hood at that point, so if the connectors match I suspect it will work.

My old research says that those two harness sub-numbers were used for manual transmission cars from 2-70 through 9-70 (bundled under 24013-E4601), and also for 10-70 through 12-70 (bundled under 24013-E4602), so I would call them correct for your car. Here's the thread where I went through all this with a previous car: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=19793

In most cases, the screws should be able to pass through the holes in the marker plate without contacting the metal. But that can be tricky on some cars. Some users have slightly enlarged the holes in the backing plate to make certain the screws miss the metal. One user even slipped a bit of shrink-tube over the screw to prevent this. 12746 was a yellow automatic, and originally sold in Montana, not that far from you.

The new sidemarker adapter will affect both park and blinkers on that side.

I'd guess that the left front side marker has a ground problem. No metal parts of the sidemarker can contact the fender. Try removing the sidemarker from the fender and just let it hang by the wires, and see if that works. If it does, when you put it back make certain to keep the metal isolated.

Euro springs don't lower the car, they actually raise it unless you cut them down significantly. Both Koni and the adjustable Tokico Illuminas are good shocks, but neither one is particularly known for giving a good ride. My GR2s are fine, matched with the cutdown Euro springs. But you are right in one way, KYBs are not designed to use on cars that have been lowered significantly.Unless they've changed radically in the past few years, Gabriel would be the equal of the KYBs, if even that good.

In case you missed it, the pictures of my sunroof removal last year are in this thread.

I've done it in place, not too difficult, just messy. Remove all of the carpet and padding from the passenger floorpan before starting. You WILL make a mess in there. As a side note, I'd strongly recommend replacing any of the old cloth-covered hoses still on the car while you're at it. Mine were so brittle that one actually crumbled when I went to remove it. And that can't be good...

I've locked this thread, people. This is not a new topic, been discussed many times before. And everyone's had plenty of time to express their opinions on this.

I realize that the original poster hasn't been on the site in a while, but since I've seen references to a few others with similar issues I thought that I'd report some recent changes on my similar issue. If you review my earlier posts, you'll see that I claim to have fixed it with a plug change a while back. Turns out that fix was not permanent, the problem returned after some time.To recap, my car would rev great in neutral, but under load (accelerating through the gears) it would reach a point where it would simply stop revving, much like it had hit a rev limiter. The point at which this would happen varied depending on my ignition config. At stock timing (5° BTDC) it would hit the wall at about 4000 RPM. If I advanced the timing to 15-17° BTDC I could get over 5000 RPM before it started to sputter and then stop revving. Here's what I was running up until yesterday: Stock late '71 L24 w/E88 head and all emissions equipment intact Original 240Z distributor w/vacuum advance (cleaned, lubed and tested) Mechanical advance curve quickened by removing one of the two governor springs Matching Bosch cap and rotor NGK plug wires NGK BP6ES-8 (normal .032" gap) Pertronix Ignitor Pertronix 3Ω Flamethrower coil Ballast resistor by-passed Timing set to 15° BTDC (timing marker verified manually) With this setup, I could rev cleanly to 5000-5300 or so, but the car was prone to ping under moderate load, even on what the oil companies are pleased to sell as "91 octane" fuel these days. Since the car did not do this in the past, I decided yesterday to revert to the way it was when I bought it. I didn't re-install the original cap, rotor and wires, but did reinstall the points, original coil and re-connect the ballast resistor, and set the timing to 10° BTDC as it was when I bought the car. Test drive showed it ran properly this way—pulls clean and hard to 6500 if I want. So now it was a simple matter of parts substitution to find out where the issue is/was. My first move was to install the Pertronix coil with the points. And that immediately brought the problem back. With the newer 3Ω coil in combination with the points, the car would pull up to a touch over 5000 RPM if the ballast resistor was bypassed, or only about 4000 RPM with the ballast in place. So it was back to the original 38 year old coil. Next I installed the Pertronix ignitor, but retained the original coil and left the resistor connected. This also caused the problem to return, this time at ~4800 RPM. By-passing the resistor while using the original coil and the Ignitor again allows the engine to rev clear through to 6500 RPM. So this is where I am today: Stock late '71 L24 w/E88 head and all emissions equipment intact Original 240Z distributor w/vacuum advance Mechanical advance curve quickened by removing one of the two governor springs Matching Bosch cap and rotor NGK plug wires NGK BP6ES-8 (normal .032" gap) Pertronix Ignitor Original Nissan 1.5Ω coil Ballast resistor by-passed Timing set to 8° BTDC The car runs great in this config. My conclusion is that the Pertronix Ignitor changes the spark in such a way that a coil in the normal 3Ω range can't keep up for some reason. The stock coil is rated at about 1.5Ω, and the resistor is rated at about 1.6Ω, for a combination of 3.1Ω. The points ignition works fine with the original 3.1Ω coil/resistor combo, but the Pertonix will not, it needs the 1.5Ω coil alone to keep up. This is despite the recommendation in the Pertronix documentation calling for a 3Ω coil with no resistor for 6 cylinder engines for street use. It may be related to the fact that the dwell angle of the Pertronix (which is non-adjustable) is borderline low, compared to factory specs for the points. Worse, the Pertronix 3Ω coil doesn't appear to truly be 3Ω, since it won't quite keep up with the points ignition even with the ballast by-passed. And since the Ignitor appears to require less than 3Ω to run well, the combo flat doesn't work. My ignition package was purchased from MSA about 8 months ago. I will contact MSA about this, and see if they can take the 3Ω coil back, hopefully exchanging for a 1.5Ω instead. But that might not be possible, considering that we're talking electrical parts here. So that's where I stand right now. The car is running great on the Ignitor and original coil (no resistor).

Dealer installed options would have been listed on a separate sticker. Only factory or port-installed items could be listed on the official sticker.

Arne's are gone.

Added and a new picture and info to the Monza info in the first post.

I'm pleased my car could be an inspiration. From the looks of it, you will have an outstanding example very shortly. Good job!

While I, on the other hand, wasn't certain that I wanted twin tips. (Still not convinced, in fact. But it sure needed something, that ugly plain tip the PO had on it bothered me every time I looked at it. Worst part of the car. :sick: ) That was why I never popped for one of yours when they were available. But this Monza was so cheap I figured I couldn't lose. If I didn't like it, I figured I could probably eBay it and make money on it, even used.

Like this? The rear hanger on the Monza is slotted so you can adjust how high it hangs.

It's a Monza, and it's been shoved around for so many years that the stickers are garbage, and have already been removed as I type this. Can't live with the yellow on my red car either, so some red paint will be in order. Definitely designed as a replacement for the stock rear muffler, from the looks of it, and the pipe size. I've already done the test fitting, and it will be a piece of cake to install on my car, since the inlet size happens to match what's on the car.

Well, it's not Ansa, but check out what I found on a back shelf at one of the local muffler shops. The inlet is a whopping 1 3/4", which just happens to be exactly the size of my car's piping. The chrome has a few scuffs here and there, and it needs some paint, but it will do, I'm sure. Considering how affordable it was, its flaws are minor.

Let's be civil, folks....

No idea. I'd be looking for a parts car in your situation, the other option would require figuring out all of the part numbers and trying to get them from Nissan.

I don't have any pics of under the dash on my laptop, but here's a couple others.

When I had my car painted last year, I only paid $380 total for a new windshield, labor for the front, and to re-install the existing rear glass. I supplied the gaskets. I seem to recall that the glass itself was less than $200.