Arne

In case you missed it, the pictures of my sunroof removal last year are in this thread.

I've done it in place, not too difficult, just messy. Remove all of the carpet and padding from the passenger floorpan before starting. You WILL make a mess in there. As a side note, I'd strongly recommend replacing any of the old cloth-covered hoses still on the car while you're at it. Mine were so brittle that one actually crumbled when I went to remove it. And that can't be good...

I've locked this thread, people. This is not a new topic, been discussed many times before. And everyone's had plenty of time to express their opinions on this.

I realize that the original poster hasn't been on the site in a while, but since I've seen references to a few others with similar issues I thought that I'd report some recent changes on my similar issue. If you review my earlier posts, you'll see that I claim to have fixed it with a plug change a while back. Turns out that fix was not permanent, the problem returned after some time.To recap, my car would rev great in neutral, but under load (accelerating through the gears) it would reach a point where it would simply stop revving, much like it had hit a rev limiter. The point at which this would happen varied depending on my ignition config. At stock timing (5° BTDC) it would hit the wall at about 4000 RPM. If I advanced the timing to 15-17° BTDC I could get over 5000 RPM before it started to sputter and then stop revving. Here's what I was running up until yesterday: Stock late '71 L24 w/E88 head and all emissions equipment intact Original 240Z distributor w/vacuum advance (cleaned, lubed and tested) Mechanical advance curve quickened by removing one of the two governor springs Matching Bosch cap and rotor NGK plug wires NGK BP6ES-8 (normal .032" gap) Pertronix Ignitor Pertronix 3Ω Flamethrower coil Ballast resistor by-passed Timing set to 15° BTDC (timing marker verified manually) With this setup, I could rev cleanly to 5000-5300 or so, but the car was prone to ping under moderate load, even on what the oil companies are pleased to sell as "91 octane" fuel these days. Since the car did not do this in the past, I decided yesterday to revert to the way it was when I bought it. I didn't re-install the original cap, rotor and wires, but did reinstall the points, original coil and re-connect the ballast resistor, and set the timing to 10° BTDC as it was when I bought the car. Test drive showed it ran properly this way—pulls clean and hard to 6500 if I want. So now it was a simple matter of parts substitution to find out where the issue is/was. My first move was to install the Pertronix coil with the points. And that immediately brought the problem back. With the newer 3Ω coil in combination with the points, the car would pull up to a touch over 5000 RPM if the ballast resistor was bypassed, or only about 4000 RPM with the ballast in place. So it was back to the original 38 year old coil. Next I installed the Pertronix ignitor, but retained the original coil and left the resistor connected. This also caused the problem to return, this time at ~4800 RPM. By-passing the resistor while using the original coil and the Ignitor again allows the engine to rev clear through to 6500 RPM. So this is where I am today: Stock late '71 L24 w/E88 head and all emissions equipment intact Original 240Z distributor w/vacuum advance Mechanical advance curve quickened by removing one of the two governor springs Matching Bosch cap and rotor NGK plug wires NGK BP6ES-8 (normal .032" gap) Pertronix Ignitor Original Nissan 1.5Ω coil Ballast resistor by-passed Timing set to 8° BTDC The car runs great in this config. My conclusion is that the Pertronix Ignitor changes the spark in such a way that a coil in the normal 3Ω range can't keep up for some reason. The stock coil is rated at about 1.5Ω, and the resistor is rated at about 1.6Ω, for a combination of 3.1Ω. The points ignition works fine with the original 3.1Ω coil/resistor combo, but the Pertonix will not, it needs the 1.5Ω coil alone to keep up. This is despite the recommendation in the Pertronix documentation calling for a 3Ω coil with no resistor for 6 cylinder engines for street use. It may be related to the fact that the dwell angle of the Pertronix (which is non-adjustable) is borderline low, compared to factory specs for the points. Worse, the Pertronix 3Ω coil doesn't appear to truly be 3Ω, since it won't quite keep up with the points ignition even with the ballast by-passed. And since the Ignitor appears to require less than 3Ω to run well, the combo flat doesn't work. My ignition package was purchased from MSA about 8 months ago. I will contact MSA about this, and see if they can take the 3Ω coil back, hopefully exchanging for a 1.5Ω instead. But that might not be possible, considering that we're talking electrical parts here. So that's where I stand right now. The car is running great on the Ignitor and original coil (no resistor).

Dealer installed options would have been listed on a separate sticker. Only factory or port-installed items could be listed on the official sticker.

Arne's are gone.

Added and a new picture and info to the Monza info in the first post.

I'm pleased my car could be an inspiration. From the looks of it, you will have an outstanding example very shortly. Good job!

While I, on the other hand, wasn't certain that I wanted twin tips. (Still not convinced, in fact. But it sure needed something, that ugly plain tip the PO had on it bothered me every time I looked at it. Worst part of the car. :sick: ) That was why I never popped for one of yours when they were available. But this Monza was so cheap I figured I couldn't lose. If I didn't like it, I figured I could probably eBay it and make money on it, even used.

Like this? The rear hanger on the Monza is slotted so you can adjust how high it hangs.

It's a Monza, and it's been shoved around for so many years that the stickers are garbage, and have already been removed as I type this. Can't live with the yellow on my red car either, so some red paint will be in order. Definitely designed as a replacement for the stock rear muffler, from the looks of it, and the pipe size. I've already done the test fitting, and it will be a piece of cake to install on my car, since the inlet size happens to match what's on the car.

Well, it's not Ansa, but check out what I found on a back shelf at one of the local muffler shops. The inlet is a whopping 1 3/4", which just happens to be exactly the size of my car's piping. The chrome has a few scuffs here and there, and it needs some paint, but it will do, I'm sure. Considering how affordable it was, its flaws are minor.

Let's be civil, folks....

No idea. I'd be looking for a parts car in your situation, the other option would require figuring out all of the part numbers and trying to get them from Nissan.

I don't have any pics of under the dash on my laptop, but here's a couple others.

When I had my car painted last year, I only paid $380 total for a new windshield, labor for the front, and to re-install the existing rear glass. I supplied the gaskets. I seem to recall that the glass itself was less than $200.

If Precious has mostly stock suspension, KYB GR-2 should be about as close to stock as you'll find. Although, since they are gas-charged, they may raise the car's ride height a bit - I'd expect about 10-15mm. But since the only non-gas units I've found these days are Konis (which are reputed to be harsher ride, even when set full soft), the KYBs are probably the best choice. I am running them in my '71, with cut-down repro Euro Stage 1 springs. The ride is firm, but not harsh. Much like stock, I suspect.

Go to a motorcycle shop and buy 20wt. fork oil. ATF is frequently recommended, but averages about 5wt. and is not the best choice.

Search this site for carb tuning tips. Plenty of previous posts on this topic, anything I could post here would simply be a duplication several times over.

Marty, find a parts house who has it in stock, and ask to unbox it so you can see it. The Nissan part will probably be a Tokico, or possibly a NABCO. Many generic suppliers also rebox those same brands. So if you can find a Tokico for less than Nissan, there's no less quality.

Greg, I assume you are after original-style aluminum drums? I note that MSA's web site says that brake drums are "Back in Stock!" I do not know if these are aluminum, or just cast iron.

Yes, pictures would help.

Pulling the parking brake repeatedly is fine for the final adjustment, but you should get the adjustment close before doing this. You'll need to manually adjust that wheel using the star wheel. You service manual should have the directions. Side note—the rear drum brakes on an S30 are self-adjusting, but the self-adjusting mechanism (as noted here) is in the parking brake. Regular use of the parking brake (every time you park it, ideally) is necessary to keep the rear brakes adjusted properly. A good habit to develop, if you don't already do this.

I'd probably keep it as is, if it were mine. Probably put it in storage and get a different rim and mount a newer tire for normal use, but no way I'd dismount or otherwise touch that time-capsule.

Oddly enough, my car—despite it's originality in most ways—did not have the original spare when I bought it. Instead the original owner had substituted a bigger 195/70-14 Goodyear on one of the ugly chrome basket wheels that the dealer installed on it when new. Later, the owner installed a set of real wire wheels, which must have been when the original spare was disposed of. Since the big Goodyear didn't fit in the well properly, I now have a stock steel wheel from one of my parts cars (dated 3-71) with an old 175HR14 Michelin XAS. Not great, but probably only 25 years old!