Arne

Oh great, I'm known for my arcane knowledge...

The auto console is different for '70-71, but I think that the '72-73 are the same regardless of transmission type.

1.) Please don't post the same question in more than one forum. I have deleted your other thread. 2.) This is one of those questions that has been asked so many times that most old-timers here will simply ignore this thread. Try searching for things like "240z bumper swap".

That is a traditional Japanese brass valve cap from those days. Probably made by "Pacific". The cap itself is brass, and will have a rubber seal inside. The rubber cone-shaped cap on the tip can be removed (by gently twisting and pulling) to reveal a valve core tool. Don't see those much any more, and never on automotive tires.

PM coming soon. Hard to find proper silver color blades anywhere except Nissan. I have a pair of the ones linked above from Courtesy.

That was my assumption. If these are what you need, I have a pair.

Big offset difference. Using FWD wheels will still require thick spacers, about the same thickness as the offset of the wheel. For most large diameter FWD wheels, that will be 35-50mm spacers. About the same thickness as the 5 lug adapters.

I may have a spare pair, I'll try to look through my stuff today.

The stock diff in a 240Z (any year) is an open R180, not an R200, nor limited slip.

Not all of them are flat lens. My Cibiés have a convex lens like a sealed beam. The lens fluting is much different, though. I'm not convinced about the "easier on the eyes" bit. There are plusses and minuses to the blue color from the driver's perspective, far more technical than what we probably want to go into here. And there is a huge difference in the type of "blue" light delivered by a tinted bulb as opposed to the "bluish" light of a true HID.Blue tinted bulbs were designed for people who wanted the look of true HIDs in their cars that use halogen bulbs. Simple as that. Just for marketing and to satisfy an appearance desire. Blue tinted bulbs have several drawbacks. The first is that ANY tint of any color reduces the bulb's effective output. Compare a blue-tinted 55/60 to a clear 55/60 of the same brand and the clear will have more output. Can't be otherwise. Remember that blue-tinting doesn't "tint" the light output, but in reality it blocks certain non-blue wavelengths, mostly yellows and reds. So less light gets out. Of course, you can compensate for this by using higher wattage bulbs as Dave is doing. Another drawback is that because some of the light is blocked by the tint, the bulbs run slightly hotter, and therefore the service life may be slightly reduced. Worst from the viewpoint of an oncoming driver is that the blue wavelengths are the ones that are hardest to control, and scatter the worst. That's why the sky or deep lakes are blue. So even when used in a high quality E-code light, there is noticeably more glare and light scatter. Highly annoying to oncoming traffic. Just my personal opinion, but I'd be happy if there were no such thing as tinted bulbs. Because

1.) Blue tinted bulbs are a sales gimmick. The blue tint does not help, and can only hinder light output.2.) Those are clear lens "Multi-Surface Reflector" lights (MSRs). If they are properly and precisely designed, and built with exacting precision, MSRs can aim and control the light output as well as or even better than a normal refractive (fluted lens) headlight. Problem is that all these cheap MSRs from China and Taiwan are neither designed nor built with the necessary precision. No way these lights will be the equal of a true high quality E-code light such as Hella, Cibié or Bosch to name a few of the good ones. Over the past 30+ years that I've been using E-code H4 lights in my vehicles, I've personally used at least 10 different brands in the 7" round size, and I always end up coming back to those three. That said, ANY halfway decently assembled H4 light will be better than sealed beams. 3.) Halos are a personal preference, have no bearing on light output. I personally think they are tacky looking gimmicks, even on the BMWs that come with them from the factory. (And I even own a BMW.) But if you like them, it's your car.

Top right is a rearview mirror mount.

The reason you've not gotten an answer is that most of the people here who rebuild their own engines here don't buy "kits", they pick and choose the parts individually. So it is very likely that no one has any experience with this kit to share.

My experience is the same as Will's, no one is willing to pay much if anything at all for an L24, no matter how good it is. Granted, lots of the used L24s you see unsold are old and tired, but there's plenty available that are solid, good running motors. And by the time you add the cost of shipping... Best bet is to find a Z or Datsun club whose membership is within driving distance and try to find a buyer there. If that doesn't work, you may have to (sadly) part it out.

I'm with Julio on this. The older cars look best with tall sidewalls and small rims, IMO.If you do go 17", to not look silly the car needs to be lowered like the one in the post above. Visually, the fender gap should be no larger than the sidewalls. So the lower profile you go, the less fender gap you want to keep things optically pleasing. 17" on my car that is almost stock height would look monumentally stupid, but when lowered enough to suit the tire height (as pictured above), they don't look out of place at all.

Thanks for the clarification, E. I can never seem to remember how to do it. All I know is that trying to do a pair in series (the way most people try it) doesn't work.

The main connector has power, ground, dash lights and speaker wires. The speaker answer is the same as above. Two normal speakers cannot be used. Too little resistance and the internal amp goes "poof". My answer to this issue was to pack the original in the closet and install a vintage Pioneer Supertuner instead. Vintage looks, better sound, two speakers. All good.

The three wire connector is not the speaker, but is for the power antenna. It is possible to power two speakers with that radio, but the speakers need to be selected very carefully to prevent blowing out the amp. I don't recommend it.