Arne

If Precious has mostly stock suspension, KYB GR-2 should be about as close to stock as you'll find. Although, since they are gas-charged, they may raise the car's ride height a bit - I'd expect about 10-15mm. But since the only non-gas units I've found these days are Konis (which are reputed to be harsher ride, even when set full soft), the KYBs are probably the best choice. I am running them in my '71, with cut-down repro Euro Stage 1 springs. The ride is firm, but not harsh. Much like stock, I suspect.

Go to a motorcycle shop and buy 20wt. fork oil. ATF is frequently recommended, but averages about 5wt. and is not the best choice.

Search this site for carb tuning tips. Plenty of previous posts on this topic, anything I could post here would simply be a duplication several times over.

Marty, find a parts house who has it in stock, and ask to unbox it so you can see it. The Nissan part will probably be a Tokico, or possibly a NABCO. Many generic suppliers also rebox those same brands. So if you can find a Tokico for less than Nissan, there's no less quality.

Greg, I assume you are after original-style aluminum drums? I note that MSA's web site says that brake drums are "Back in Stock!" I do not know if these are aluminum, or just cast iron.

Yes, pictures would help.

Pulling the parking brake repeatedly is fine for the final adjustment, but you should get the adjustment close before doing this. You'll need to manually adjust that wheel using the star wheel. You service manual should have the directions. Side note—the rear drum brakes on an S30 are self-adjusting, but the self-adjusting mechanism (as noted here) is in the parking brake. Regular use of the parking brake (every time you park it, ideally) is necessary to keep the rear brakes adjusted properly. A good habit to develop, if you don't already do this.

I'd probably keep it as is, if it were mine. Probably put it in storage and get a different rim and mount a newer tire for normal use, but no way I'd dismount or otherwise touch that time-capsule.

Oddly enough, my car—despite it's originality in most ways—did not have the original spare when I bought it. Instead the original owner had substituted a bigger 195/70-14 Goodyear on one of the ugly chrome basket wheels that the dealer installed on it when new. Later, the owner installed a set of real wire wheels, which must have been when the original spare was disposed of. Since the big Goodyear didn't fit in the well properly, I now have a stock steel wheel from one of my parts cars (dated 3-71) with an old 175HR14 Michelin XAS. Not great, but probably only 25 years old!

Oh great, I'm known for my arcane knowledge...

The auto console is different for '70-71, but I think that the '72-73 are the same regardless of transmission type.

1.) Please don't post the same question in more than one forum. I have deleted your other thread. 2.) This is one of those questions that has been asked so many times that most old-timers here will simply ignore this thread. Try searching for things like "240z bumper swap".

That is a traditional Japanese brass valve cap from those days. Probably made by "Pacific". The cap itself is brass, and will have a rubber seal inside. The rubber cone-shaped cap on the tip can be removed (by gently twisting and pulling) to reveal a valve core tool. Don't see those much any more, and never on automotive tires.

PM coming soon. Hard to find proper silver color blades anywhere except Nissan. I have a pair of the ones linked above from Courtesy.

That was my assumption. If these are what you need, I have a pair.

Big offset difference. Using FWD wheels will still require thick spacers, about the same thickness as the offset of the wheel. For most large diameter FWD wheels, that will be 35-50mm spacers. About the same thickness as the 5 lug adapters.

I may have a spare pair, I'll try to look through my stuff today.

The stock diff in a 240Z (any year) is an open R180, not an R200, nor limited slip.