Arne

I don't think it will feel different unless you have one stiff mother of a pressure plate that takes both feet to push. There's just not enough pressure in a clutch line to cause any appreciable swelling in a normal hose in good condition. The feel problem is probably due to the leak. Fix that and you should be as good as it gets.

But the larger question is -- why? The clutch hose is not under the kind of pressure that a brake hose has to deal with. The amount of hose flex on a rubber clutch hose in good condition is minimal. I would think that replacing it with a stainless covered teflon hose will not affect the clutch feel in any noticeable way.

Additionally, there are differences in the shifter location between the early ('70-71) and late ('72-73) styles for 240Z. Swapping between early and late styles on a 240Z may require mods in this area. I think (but don't take this as gospel) that the later style will fit all 240Z, but the early will not fit the later without some trimming.

I think I'm going, not sure if my wife will make it. We're here for you whenever you make it up this way, Adam...

According to the NW-Z event calendar, this year's S&S is Aug. 29th, same venue.

I understand the sentiment on this, but for your average Z owner and strictly for street use, the selection of 15" tires is just fine. About the same as 16", actually, as the very best track-capable tires are often not available in sizes smaller than 17".Also, your typical street-tuned S30 (with suspension mods as noted in this thread) can't really make full use of the really good, modern tires anyway. Too dang wide. So as noted here, there are still plenty of pretty darn good high-performance tires made in 225/50-15. Now for 14", that's a totally different story....

Prepare it the same as you would with any fiberglass part. I'm not a painter, so I can't recommend what grit to use, but no different than any other auto painting project. Last post I saw here with satin black on his spook said he used Krylon, and it looked great...

225/60-15 are rather tall, 2 sizes taller than stock. Add in the extra width and lowering the car, and I suspect that you could have some rubbing. 205/60-15 are about stock height. If you want more width, many like 225/50-15, although that size is a bit shorter than stock. Either of those will probably fit a lowered 280Z without issues. I've used Toyo Proxes tires on various cars for years. Had the "Proxes 4" on the BMW, liked them a lot.

Doing a cam right will be $500+. A header won't help all that much without the cam. Dynomax sounds OK to me, but I'm looking into different options that might emphasize the inline 6 sound. Leaning towards Magnaflow at this point. That's not going to happen once you swap in the V8. When they hear you, they're going to think "Camaro".

Probably not, if they are hardwired into the harness...

Rob is right, it can be fixed. Here on the West coast though, most people would consider that much rust to be terminal, unless that car was low-VIN, had family sentimental value, or something else special about it. But in your part of the country? Finding a project that's a better starting point might be tough.

I wonder that all the time, Carl. With today's techniques and technology, it should be a piece of cake to build a lightweight two seater that has more performance than any of us need, and could probably get 35 MPG on the highway while doing it. It could be done. But the automakers don't think they can make enough money on cheap cars, so they don't really want to build that car. Instead they want to pork it up so they can sell it for $25-30k.

10mmx1.25.

Rich, I think you'll find that if you remove the yellow sticker from the new radiator cap, underneath you'll find that it has stamped lettering that is very similar in looks to the original. It will say "REMOVE SLOWLY" on one side, and either "TIGHTEN" or some Japanese characters on the other. See this thread for some examples: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=33600

New will be tough to find, other than from your Nissan dealer. While there are plenty of newer cars that have the same bolt pattern in 14", they are all FWD and won't fit a Z. Realistically, you are going to be limited to wheels from '72 or newer Z (all 14x5), a non-turbo ZX (14x5.5), or perhaps a RWD Maxima/810. Not much else newer that will both fit the car and your hubcaps.

15" gunmetal Konigs.

Yes, I'm certain that could be done. That would be closer, but you'd still have the newer shift pattern disk with the sloppy looking back-paint and the wrong typeface. I decided to keep the original, even with its flaws.

I added some comments to my previous post while you were replying.

Better jump on these.... http://www.classiczcars.com/classifieds/showproduct.php?product=3983&cat=4 Shipping them will be a bit of a headache, but possible. And to answer your original question, I am told that the new replacement fenders from Nissan do fit Series 1 cars. There may be a very few small differences in the inspection cover latches for very low VIN cars, But they should still fit fine.

Oh dear, that's a recent and revolting development. They were available not all that long ago, I know of several people who bought them in the past year or so.

I hear you. Reds in general are way more money than other colors. Last year when I had mine done I seem to recall the painter saying $600 for enough to paint my little car....

I don't think it's THAT bad, but I agree that other reds do have more pop. But on my period-correct survivor, stock 905 was the only way to go.But up North of me, funz1z painted her Series 1 Ferarri Rosso Corsa (Racing Red). Definitely attracts attention. As will yours, Steve. You can see the difference easily when they are parked side by side.

After 20+ years in that business, I can say that using weights on both the inside and outside of the rim is the best way to balance a tire/rim assembly. However, a skilled technician with modern equipment (or even semi-modern, my experience is over 10 years old now) should be able to get a reasonably accurate balance job without putting weights on the front of the wheel, especially on the relatively narrow rims we use on our S30s. Generally, if you are not putting weights on both edges of the rim, you want to switch the balancer to "static" mode (not "dynamic"), which should give a single reading for the entire wheel. Most people will then put that weight as close to the center of the rim as possible, but with experience, a good tech will compare that reading with the dynamic reading, and may place the weight more toward the front or back of the rim as the dynamic reading indicates. Current balancers are even more helpful, as the tech can indicate the size and offset of the rim, and then indicate where on the rim area he wishes to place the weight and let the balancer compute the rest. Some even allow you to identify the location and number of any spokes, and will make allowances to attempt to hide the weights behind those spokes. Frankly, if I am reading your description of what happened on the balancer correctly, I have doubts that your tech is experienced with this technique, and also that his equipment is somewhat dated. Might be time to find a different tire shop.