Arne

Depends on who you ask. If they aren't rusty from shipping moisture, I'd probably clean the friction surfaces thoroughly and use them as is. But many brake shops will turn them first.

But we still don't know—does he care if the airbox has the summer/winter flapper? If not, there are lots around. As noted above, Mike B said he may have a couple of 'em.

No, all Z cars had PCV valves. EGR was not on the '70-72 cars—no bung in the exhaust manifold for it. I'm pretty certain that all '73s had EGR, but not certain enough to bet money on it.

Yup. Try this thread. Covers this type of thing in detail. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=22619

It's stamped on the face of the rim, along with the date code and DOT certification. In this case, 14x5JJ was used from '72-78, I believe. (S130s used 5.5" steel.) But verify that on your particular set before taking my word on this.

Both pinned.A quick reminder, those of you who have Google accounts (gmail addresses) can add your own pins, as the map is public.

Where in Oregon are you, Chris? Good chance there's help and advice nearby. Lots of Oregonians here.

Done. Since I don't know where the pen is, I just dropped it wherever. Might have put you in the pen by accident, who knows?

The Superior turbine also had vanes going all the way to the center. Beandip has a set on his 240Z.

My answer to this now is the same as when I deleted your previous post. Ask for or offer advice or help, tell a story, express opinions, any of that can be posted in the forums. But "cars/parts wanted or for sale" posts are ads, and belong in the free Classified section. If you want more visibility than that, feel free to become a paying site sponsor.

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=30854&highlight=shelby+catalog

150 is probably fine. Too many variables to say for certain. Things like the accuracy of the gauge itself, whether the engine was warm or cold (should be warm ideally), and whether or not you remembered to hold the throttle wide open while cranking. All of these things (and probably others as well) can have an effect on the final numbers. But for now, to compare for this one cylinder, try to wet test it in as close to the same condition and method as you did before.

If I understand what you are planning, yes, I believe all the fuses and circuits are in the same spots on both styles.

The car I did had the injection from an '83 in it, so the details may be different from yours. But I still think it should be unplugable.

Unplug it from the main harness and remove it.

One of the main power leads is different, as I recall. On the long-tail, there is a heavy gauge white wire (maybe with a black trace?) that is soldered to the fusebox and connects to the harness with a large blade terminal inside a white plastic connector. In the later short-tail box this wire from the dash harness connects directly to a terminal on the back of the fusebox using a screw. Other connectors on the pigtails may be different also, I never looked into that. Plus the fact that the dash harness connectors on the Series 1 car probably won't reach the shorter pigtails on the later fusebox—at least not without some creativity in routing. In short, I suspect that the later fusebox could be made to work, but it will likely require a bit of re-wiring.

Possibly sticky rings in that cylinder. Run the compression test in that hole again, but pour in a few cc's of engine oil first. If that brings the compression in that cylinder up, the rings are leaking. If it's still the same it's either a valve not sealing or the head gasket. If the oil does bring the numbers up, you might try soaking that cylinder with ATF to try to de-gunk the rings. (Don't forget to change the oil after doing that.)

Understood. Like my car and the sunroof. I always disliked it, but took amost two years to get around to doing something about it.

You ever get that taken care of, Randy?

I've seen all sorts of darker and/or contrasting finishes that look good. But the design of the panels seems to work best with contrast, not body color. My opinion only, of course. No offense meant for those of you who like them body color.

And should you decide to do so, converting to a 4 or 5 speed later is relatively easy. Series 1 240Z auto to 4 speed swap

I personally don't care for the mono-chrome look. These pictures are of the site owner Mike's car. He has been talking about going back to a contrasting color on his car.

I think the copper tubing to reinforce is a good idea. In my old days in auto service, I've seen booster hoses collapse under high vacuum. The brakes still work, but it leads to a significant loss of power assist. That is why brake booster hoses are all internally reinforced.

Won't be cheap, but Les can do it, and do it right. http://classicdatsun.com/

Kats, is the fuel vent hose rigid enough for the master-vac? I'd fear that it might collapse under vacuum.