Arne

Can anyone explain to me how all this bickering is of any value at all to the original question? Especially in that I strongly suspect that the original poster may not be a native English speaker? All this history garbage is totally off-topic in this thread. To Alan and Carl - if you two feel you must argue in this manner, take it to a more appropriate venue.

The Z lives in Camas with his wife (FunZ1Z).No idea who moved Jonny's pin.

I guess some of us West Coasters are too laid back to pin to the map. I know for a fact that the number of pins for Oregon and Washington is only about half or less of the people around here that I normally correspond with. Don't know why some haven't pinned. Steve lives in Camas, WA, but works for weeks (months?) at a time way up there in Alaska. I think his pin is correct.

Here's a screenshot of North America so far. There are 5 pins outside N. America, 3 in Europe, 1 in the Middle East, and 1 in New Zealand.

Those are the only ZX rims that I really like even a little. They'll fit and work fine on a 240Z, although as bigoak notes, they are not period correct. But note that they take special lug nuts, that only fit factory Nissan mag wheels. Those lug nuts can be expensive if the seller doesn't have them.

Yes, but matte black is too dark. The original gray was much lighter than that.

Only '70 and '71 had the webbing, '72 and later had springs. I imagine you could add some webbing to reinforce the springs.

I've got them on my motorcycle. They are a bit large, but work fine. The hose does not need to be submerged with them.

You know, after I posted that I went outside to mow the lawn. While mowing I thought to myself, "I think I said that wrong, I think he's in Norway." You'd think that someone of Swedish ancestry could keep his Scandinavian countries straight, but I guess not. The original was totally dull/flat - no gloss at all. I tried using a satin clear coat to flatten it and it wasn't nearly flat enough. The original was not metallic at all. But if you spray it dry enough, the metallic tends to add some depth and make it look flatter and rougher than it really is. So while not perfect, the metallic doesn't seem to hurt. And finding an off the shelf alternative will be easier for metallics. That's why I gave the Nissan paint code as well. If Motip can match Nissan #463, that should be the same as the Plasti-kote.

Well, I strongly suspect that trying to ship paint internationally to Norway would be monstrously expensive, if not impossible. So paint from ClassicDatsun as linked above (which I used, shown in the attachment) probably isn't the answer. Bear in mind that the original paint had no gloss, it was very dull and somewhat rough in texture. That finish is difficult to duplicate in an off the shelf spray can. When selecting an accent color for my recent mag wheel refurb project, I found that Plasti-kote Import Color #5432 is very close, almost a dead match. The metallic content is very fine, and since it is designed for a clear coat, the gloss is subdued. If sprayed very dry and light coats, it might make an acceptable substitute. It is actually listed as a Nissan color, Nissan paint code 463 (Dark Gray Metallic), used from 1986-92.

But also make sure that the problem isn't that the plate inside the distributor is seized. That happens also.

Steve, I had this same decision to make about 18 months ago. I agonized over whether to fix it or part it. In the end, I parted mine out. However -- by that time I already had purchased my red 240Z, which is/was a low miles, rust-free car. So the decision in my case was whether or not to throw a bunch of money at a car that I was not going to keep. Looked at in that light, it made no sense to repair it. I would have way more in it than I could sell it for. But if it was the only Z that I had? I probably would have bit the bullet and fixed it. By the time I found more and worse rust than I had expected, I had the car fairly well debugged mechanically, and repairing the rust and painting it would have gotten it back on the road. For a car that I would keep and drive, getting in a bit overboard would have irked me, but I'd have done it anyway. Wouldn't have been the first time I've been upside-down in a car, nor the last, I suspect. I can live with that if I'm driving and enjoying it. So if you really want a Z, I'd consider fixing the known car that you already have. Because there's no guarantee that you'll be able to find one much better in your part of the country.

There's really no difference. Measure the air flow and deliver fuel to match. The EFI air/fuel map is in bytes, for SUs it's the taper of the needles. I can't read either one by eye.

Can do.

That third line might be the evap vent tube. The diagram doesn't show it since it's not a fuel line, as such. On a 240Z it runs from the evap tank inside the car to a flow valve on the left inner fender near the coil. Again, I don't know how that compares to the 280Z system, but I assume that there may be a similar line for that.

I've gotten myself into far worse things over the years, Stephen. Your pin is planted.

If you want one without rust, you live with the color you find. But I still think 919 yellow is my favorite original color.

Pins added.

Consider it done.

Hahaha! My pin is in a park too!! It doesn't matter how accurate, just close is good enough. And as I mentioned, if someone doesn't want to create a Google account, I'll be happy to place a pin for any who ask.

I've attached a schematic of the fuel piping layout for an early 240Z. Bear in mind that many 240Zs had no electric pumps at all, just a mechanical pump mounted on the cylinder head. The electric low-pressure pump is best mounted in the same location as the high-pressure pump your car came with, right in front of the tank. On a 240Z (and I assume on a 280Z as well), there are two metal fuel pipes both running between the tank and the right inner fender, in front of the wheel. (The pipes may terminate somewhere else in the 280Z engine bay, I don't know.) There is a larger pipe (fuel from tank to carbs) and a smaller diameter pipe (excess fuel return). The fuel supply pipe goes to a filter, and from there to the pump on the head, which pumps directly into the fuel rail and to the carbs. The excess leaves the fuel rail and goes back to the return pipe on the inner fender and then back to the tank. In your case, the pump will be at the rear pulling fuel from the tank and into the bigger fuel pipe. You should probably mount an inline filter before the pump, and a second filter somewhere between the supply pipe and the fuel rail is a good idea as well.

So far in the USA, Washington and California are tied with six apiece. Colorado has four, and Oregon, Texas and Florida are tied with three each. I know there are many more members in CA, OR and FL. Worldwide, we have now six in Canada and one each in New Zealand, Denmark and Norway.

There were a couple of spurious placemarks with no data. I've deleted them.

There are too many variables to say with any kind of certainty what the root cause of my detonation was. Obviously the advance curve of the particular distributor I used was one possibility. And Gary is right, the later P79/90 heads as he is using have the most ping-resistant chamber design of any of the L-series heads. My '71 does have a factory compression ratio that is among the highest of the L-series. And considering the low mileage on my car, it is definitely possible that my car could have significant carbon build-up in the chambers as well. Would a vacuum delay valve have helped my problem? Too late to say now, but it sounds quite possible.

Can't believe there's only 45 people on the map so far. Got to be more than 45 semi-active members here now. And remember - I'll be happy to post a pin for you if you don't have a Google login, and don't want to sign up just to post on the map. Shoot me a PM, or even post here.