Arne

Well, I strongly suspect that trying to ship paint internationally to Norway would be monstrously expensive, if not impossible. So paint from ClassicDatsun as linked above (which I used, shown in the attachment) probably isn't the answer. Bear in mind that the original paint had no gloss, it was very dull and somewhat rough in texture. That finish is difficult to duplicate in an off the shelf spray can. When selecting an accent color for my recent mag wheel refurb project, I found that Plasti-kote Import Color #5432 is very close, almost a dead match. The metallic content is very fine, and since it is designed for a clear coat, the gloss is subdued. If sprayed very dry and light coats, it might make an acceptable substitute. It is actually listed as a Nissan color, Nissan paint code 463 (Dark Gray Metallic), used from 1986-92.

But also make sure that the problem isn't that the plate inside the distributor is seized. That happens also.

Steve, I had this same decision to make about 18 months ago. I agonized over whether to fix it or part it. In the end, I parted mine out. However -- by that time I already had purchased my red 240Z, which is/was a low miles, rust-free car. So the decision in my case was whether or not to throw a bunch of money at a car that I was not going to keep. Looked at in that light, it made no sense to repair it. I would have way more in it than I could sell it for. But if it was the only Z that I had? I probably would have bit the bullet and fixed it. By the time I found more and worse rust than I had expected, I had the car fairly well debugged mechanically, and repairing the rust and painting it would have gotten it back on the road. For a car that I would keep and drive, getting in a bit overboard would have irked me, but I'd have done it anyway. Wouldn't have been the first time I've been upside-down in a car, nor the last, I suspect. I can live with that if I'm driving and enjoying it. So if you really want a Z, I'd consider fixing the known car that you already have. Because there's no guarantee that you'll be able to find one much better in your part of the country.

There's really no difference. Measure the air flow and deliver fuel to match. The EFI air/fuel map is in bytes, for SUs it's the taper of the needles. I can't read either one by eye.

Can do.

That third line might be the evap vent tube. The diagram doesn't show it since it's not a fuel line, as such. On a 240Z it runs from the evap tank inside the car to a flow valve on the left inner fender near the coil. Again, I don't know how that compares to the 280Z system, but I assume that there may be a similar line for that.

I've gotten myself into far worse things over the years, Stephen. Your pin is planted.

If you want one without rust, you live with the color you find. But I still think 919 yellow is my favorite original color.

Pins added.

Consider it done.

Hahaha! My pin is in a park too!! It doesn't matter how accurate, just close is good enough. And as I mentioned, if someone doesn't want to create a Google account, I'll be happy to place a pin for any who ask.

I've attached a schematic of the fuel piping layout for an early 240Z. Bear in mind that many 240Zs had no electric pumps at all, just a mechanical pump mounted on the cylinder head. The electric low-pressure pump is best mounted in the same location as the high-pressure pump your car came with, right in front of the tank. On a 240Z (and I assume on a 280Z as well), there are two metal fuel pipes both running between the tank and the right inner fender, in front of the wheel. (The pipes may terminate somewhere else in the 280Z engine bay, I don't know.) There is a larger pipe (fuel from tank to carbs) and a smaller diameter pipe (excess fuel return). The fuel supply pipe goes to a filter, and from there to the pump on the head, which pumps directly into the fuel rail and to the carbs. The excess leaves the fuel rail and goes back to the return pipe on the inner fender and then back to the tank. In your case, the pump will be at the rear pulling fuel from the tank and into the bigger fuel pipe. You should probably mount an inline filter before the pump, and a second filter somewhere between the supply pipe and the fuel rail is a good idea as well.

So far in the USA, Washington and California are tied with six apiece. Colorado has four, and Oregon, Texas and Florida are tied with three each. I know there are many more members in CA, OR and FL. Worldwide, we have now six in Canada and one each in New Zealand, Denmark and Norway.

There were a couple of spurious placemarks with no data. I've deleted them.

There are too many variables to say with any kind of certainty what the root cause of my detonation was. Obviously the advance curve of the particular distributor I used was one possibility. And Gary is right, the later P79/90 heads as he is using have the most ping-resistant chamber design of any of the L-series heads. My '71 does have a factory compression ratio that is among the highest of the L-series. And considering the low mileage on my car, it is definitely possible that my car could have significant carbon build-up in the chambers as well. Would a vacuum delay valve have helped my problem? Too late to say now, but it sounds quite possible.

Can't believe there's only 45 people on the map so far. Got to be more than 45 semi-active members here now. And remember - I'll be happy to post a pin for you if you don't have a Google login, and don't want to sign up just to post on the map. Shoot me a PM, or even post here.

As someone who had a Series 1 (since rusted and parted out), and also someone who hasn't become obsessed with the low-VIN fetish, I'll put the importance of owning a Series 1 fairly low. A Series 2 (late '71) is just as nice a car, IMO. I've gone there before, and overall condition is far more important to me these days. I'd much rather buy a straight and non-rusted later car than even a semi-rusted Series 1.Which is exactly what I did. No regrets at all. Not to say that no one should buy Series 1 cars, but to me there's no reason to think of a non-low-VIN Series 1 as any more desirable than any other similar 240Z. Different in some small ways, yes. But not more desirable or valuable.

Because it's yellow, of course. Many of us want to be members of the yellow Z club...

Japan, for the most part. Those look like Watanbes to me. You can find sets here in the states now and then, but they're expensive.

Tire Rack has them too, Stephen. If you search by tire size, the BFGs are the only thing that comes up.

Those look stock. Early 240Zs used FRP (Fiber Reinforced Plastic) headlight buckets. They changed to steel sometime around the '73 cars, I believe.

No prob. Welcome, and welcome to the Introduce yourself forum!

The reason you haven't seen a "clear and definitive answer" is because there isn't a clear and definitive answer. I can think of several other variables that are pertinent. For example, stock front valance, or air dam? Is rolling your fender lips acceptable? What size tires are you considering? And don't forget the fact that even if all this is defined, it is normal for production differences from car to car, so a package that works perfectly on someone else's car, may still not work on your particular car.

If there are any people here who are interested in being on the map, but don't have a Google account and don't really want one, either post here or send me a PM and I'll get it set up for you.

Nope. Been there, done that. Moved from the MG to a graymarket BMW, and later to the Z. Never go backwards, always do something new. Yeah, it was a great little car. Still is, I suspect. But can't imagine that I'll ever see it again, not 3000 miles from here.