Arne

Does the engine run now? Can you run a compression test? Listen for noises? Look for smoke? Because if you don't have any clue how good it is, $300 could be too much. If it burns oil, has bad compression, needs a valve job, or something like that, $300 is a pretty expensive core. Plus a '77 would have originally been a round-port head. Even if you ignore the "conventional wisdom" that says round-port heads suck, you won't be able to use your existing exhaust either. Not that the exhaust should be a deal-breaker, but it's something to consider.

For reference, Greg's 205/60-15s are about the same height as my 195/70-14s.

Something else to bear in mind - these days many 240Zs with stock springs sit taller than they did when they were new, due to the addition of gas-charged strut inserts. My car with unsagged stock springs sat a full 1/2" taller when I installed new KYB shocks. My current setup is those same KYBs with cut-down replica Euro springs (NLA at this time). By cutting the springs I was able to adjust the ride height to accommodate the gas-pressure. Eibach springs are designed to work with modern gas-charged inserts, so no adjustment is necessary.

Aftermarket u-joints sometimes do, but not always. Factory u-joints do not. A squeak like that often warns of impending failure. If so you've got some time probably, but something to think about. If there's no grease fittings and they're squeaking, they're definitely toast.

14x6 with 195/70-14s. My car is almost stock height - might be 3/8" lower than stock. Definitely taller than what Eibachs would give you.

Sounds like a u-joint to me, assuming that it only does it while you're rolling.

Those are narrow ones. Either 5.5" or 6.0", can't say for certain from a picture. No matter anyway, either width will be OK with 185-215 section tire sizes, or even as wide as 225 if you want to push it.

There may be a typo on the ZT site. The rare (or perhaps 'uncommon' would be better) carbs are early 4-screws w/o float bowl drains. Used on '70s only, probably the first 6-7000 cars.

With the tires mounted it's hard to measure them accurately. But since we know that they only made them in two or three widths (depending on the manufacturer), we can make some pretty accurate guesses. They will be either 5.5", 6.0" or 7.0" wide. The 7.0" are much deeper, so you probably have one of the narrower sizes. If so, either the 195 or 205 width is fine. The 195s would be a bit narrow on 7.0" rims. If you post a picture, I can probably ID them from that.

Here's a question for you - how wide are your Cyclones?

Yay! Now I won't need to feel bad about them keeping for myself should I run across a set!

It's all personal, but to me I don't think 195/60s have enough sidewall to fill the fender gap, even after lowering. I'd consider either 195/65s or 205/60s instead, assuming that the tire of your choice is available in one or both of those sizes.

Well, if you've already searched and read the old threads, you've already seen all the recommendations. Time to make your own choice.

In my experience, unless you have invested in a pair of true high-end H4 lamps (such as Cibié, Hella, Bosch, or IPF), you probably won't notice the difference. Certainly not on any sealed beam, and not on most H4s, especially the MSR variety. Other than the top brands, none of the rest direct the light output accurately enough that the headlight covers will have any noticeable affect. And even on the top brands, the effects would likely be fairly mild.

Sounds like the oil pump drive is off by a tooth. Either that, or you have the wrong distributor support pedestal for the dizzy you are using.

I'm sure there's some valid engineering reason relating to how the bodyshell was designed and/or assembled. But I don't know the details.

Close, Chris. The proper name is the "Monroney sticker", named after the Senator who sponsored the bill that required them on all new cars. Snipped from Wikipedia:

Yeah, I'd guess that the lining came loose on one shoe. Easy enough to find out, jack it up and pull the drum and look.

#12746 still had metal emblems, 10/70. #37705 (7/71) has plastic, except for the pillars.

As a native Oregonian, I figured maybe I should respond here, add some comments, clear up some questions, etc. First things first - I don't support the House bill that started this thread. Totally stupid and unenforceable. I also am fairly comfortable that it will die in committee. But keep those cards and letters coming, folks! The gas-mileage/GPS thing was a concept test only. The concept wasn't totally stupid, but it is pretty much dead as the officials seem to agree that retro-fitting everyone's car with a GPS isn't going to fly - financially, or politically. The lack of self-serve gas is true, and is nothing new. There has never been self-serve gas in Oregon. The primary argument against self-serve historically was fire danger. Even commercial card-lock users have/had to read and sign an instruction and safety regs sheet from the state fire marshal's office. The state gas dealers' association has tried to get that overturned several times, it has always been voted down when it gets on the ballot. Jobs are now used as an argument to keep the ban in effect, but the big argument is still fire safety. Dave, the only times they are supposed to let you pump your own is on motorcycles, and even then they are supposed to hand you the nozzle and watch you pump it. (These days they seldom stand there and watch.) While I may just sit there while they pump fuel in my normal cars, I always get out and supervise on the Z. Going to a station with slightly higher than average prices helps too, they often have better pump jockeys. State road maintenance is supposed to come from gas tax. The tax here is 24¢ per gallon. That has been unchanged for 15 years or more. Worse, road repair (like everything else) costs a lot more now than it did 15 years ago. So repair funds were already pretty tight. And then when fuel use dropped when gas exceeded $4, the funds effectively dried up. A fixed percentage may not be the answer either, but some sort of sliding scale should be considered. Also, Oregon has had a weight/mile tax on commercial vehicles for a long time. Works well if the rate is kept up to date. Not workable for private vehicles, though. Oregon has been slow to raise the speed limits back up. State highways are all still at 55. Interstates outside metro areas are 65, and recently back up to 60 in metro areas.

I contacted Terry a while back about working on some of the old Appliance wheels I have. Didn't end up doing that, but emailed back and forth a few times and all seemed normal. I know the MikeB had his LeMans wheels refinished by Terry last fall. Took a while, but no other issues that I heard of.

Try Massey's Accessories in Oklahoma, (405) 239-2010. They still had four-ear caps a few months ago.

Try it now. That's not as far out of my zone as I figured. Last few trips to LA have been about a day and a half. Leave Eugene in the morning, spend the night in Santa Nella, then an easy cruise the rest of the way and lunch in LA. Of course, those trips have been in the 328i, which is a bit different way to travel. I normally cruise at 75 or so in the BMW, but that speed is a bit frenetic in the 240Z.Note to self - keep eyes open for a cheap Type A 5 speed...

Figures, Dave can't make it, but I just might be able to swing it this year. That's probably OK, I don't know that I'd want to cruise as fast in my 4 speed car as Dave would in his anyway! If I do go, I'm pretty sure you all know what I'd drive...

A 195/60-14 is over an inch shorter in height than the stock 195/70-14. You want a tire that is closer to the stock diameter to reduce the fender gap.