Arne

He bought the cars in January of 2007, guys. Take a look at the dates before replying here. If you are hunting parts, best to use the classifieds or to send a PM, not post in a dead thread.

Your profile says that you have a '70 240Z. (Always helpful to have that info in your post, BTW.) In the USA that means your car came with a Type A 4 speed from the factory. Since you have a straight shift lever, you still have a Type A transmission in your car. While Type A 5 speeds were available from the factory in other parts of the world, they were never factory installed for the USA market, and are rather rare here as a consequence. So most likely you have a 4 speed at this time, not a 5 speed that won't shift into 5th. You can tell by looking under the car at the front end of the driveshaft. If the front end of the driveshaft bolts to an output flange at the transmission, it is a Type A 5 speed. If the front end of the driveshaft slides into the end of the transmision, it is a Type A 4 speed. (These tests are assuming that you are correctly identifying the straight shift lever.)

Yeah, it was a good ride. Five speed, that sweet little 2.3 liter six, limited slip, factory Recaros, Hardy & Beck shocks and springs, and staggered 15" BBS. Sold it with 360,000 km on the odometer. Was eventually replaced by the Z.

The server is located about 50 miles North of me. Lots of weather-related power problems in these parts this week. I know Mike has it on a UPS, but that only will hold for a couple hours. If the power is out longer than that...

And.. Will, I read Doug's comment differently. I think he's thinking about not trying to duplicate the formed opening, but simply slice a few (2 or 3) slots under each grill. Use a carbide wheel on a Dremel or die grinder. A couple of small slots should maintain most of the strength there, and be much simpler than the formed factory openings. The defroster grid changed from vertical to horizontal much later - part way through the '72 model year, IIRC. And all you'd have to do there is use the earlier glass anyway.

My 7/71 has the clear or silver as pictured above, just more tarnished from years of exhaust fumes.

That's were I got my '71 FSM. And a '71 FSM should cover your '70 pretty well, if you can't find a '70 FSM. All the main mechanical parts (including the Type A transmission) are pretty much the same.

I agree with Stephen. That spec in the manuals is for a dry gearbox after a rebuild. No way you're going to get all of the oil out, so you won't likely need the full amount for the refill.

Weasel, I'd change out the seals (both front and rear). If the tranny has been sitting for a while, they are likely to be a trouble spot at some point in the future. Probably new shifter bushings as well.

Since one of the cars in the photo that opened this thread isn't mine, I thought that maybe I should show the real occupants. The 240Z normally shares the space with: 1996 BMW 328i - 5 speed, Sport pack, euro lighting and Schnitzer wheels 1992 BMW K75RT Previous occupants of note: 1991 VW Jetta GLI 16v - sits outside now, unofficially given to my son 1981 BMW 323i (euro) - sold, but I miss it

No, but I'd be happy to serve as a transfer point, so if anyone is coming from Seattle to the Eugene-area, that's half of the trip.

Generally, the picture needs to be inserted from somewhere else as an embedded image, not just attached. But I have found a workaround for that, and did it to your post, Greg. Here's how to do it:Create your post, and attach the picture same as you always have. Submit (save) the post, and then click on your attachment. It will expand in the window. Click it again to open it in a new window, and copy the address of the picture from the new window. Go back to your post. Click 'Edit', and then 'Go Advanced' to edit in a new window with the formatting tools. (Oh yeah, you must have the tools turned on in your profile.) Look for the button that shows a mountain landscape and click it. Paste the address of the picture from the earlier window and save it, then save the Edit. Trust me on this, it's easier than it sounds here. Once done, your picture will show up as both a full size image, and a thumbnail.

I've actually been cutting back for years. I'm currently at 17, my lowest total since I got married over 30 years ago. I don't even own a gas-powered lawn mower any more. these days I save my cylinders for the things that count.

PM sent.

Heard back for Dad, he has Jan. 2002, but nor Feb. Sorry.

Possible my Dad has that issue. But he's 180 miles away. I'll see if he can look though.

Watch eBay or post a wanted ad in the site classifieds.

I agree with Gary on this, Jack. Remove the entire first flattened coil from one end of each spring. That should get you about right, assuming your springs haven't sagged over the years. If they have, the KYBs might bring it back to original uncut.

You may be able to get replacement connectors here: http://www.vintageconnections.com/ They specialize in Japanese motorcycle wiring, but many of the connectors are the same.

Negatory on the 240Z harness. Not only are the connector locations completely different due to the RHD, but there are quite a few wiring differences between the US cars and the cars for other parts of the world. For example, the high beam flasher mentioned in your other thread, totally divorced rear turn signals and brake lights, etc. To replace a Fairlady harness, you will need a replacement harness from a Fairlady. Or you'll need to repair the one you now have. As for finding a replacement, that will probably need to come from overseas as well. Perhaps one of our Aussie members could help.

I believe that button is the high beam flasher.

So I was right after all! I forgot to look at the grill....

Paul, if you want to maintain stock ride height with stock springs, I believe there is only one option left in production these days - Koni. All of the other replacement strut inserts that I have been able to find are gas-charged, and will raise the ride height of the car. In my experience (low mileage stock springs with KYB) the ride height went up about 1/2". I believe you can expect similar results with any of the other gas-charged inserts.Actually, while Konis are still readily available, I'm not really certain that new ones are still being built. I also know of a source who still has a few sets of NOS Mulholland inserts for 240Z (also some for 280Z). The Mulhollands (aka Interpart) are not gas charged, and are VERY firm.

I think it's from a 620 pickup. Edit: No, not a 620. I know I've seen it before though.

A tire that large on a 240Z is simply asking for rubbing. Totally different situation.