Arne

I purchased my red car with 59,500 miles on it. It was very original, save for the wheels, exhaust and a sunroof. I've gone both ways on mine. I had the roof re-skinned when I had it painted, which is/was a huge step back towards stock. But I have also made numerous small mods to improve daily drive-ability and/or reliability. Things like the front Spook, H4 headlights, lighting relays, period-correct AM/FM/Cassette deck, plastic cooling fan, Euro springs and KYBs, etc. Of course, like many of the other posters in this thread, I've packed up and saved all the original parts - headlights, plug wires, fan and fan clutch, radio and antenna, etc. Now that the roof is in one piece again, about the only thing on the car which is not easily reversible is the spoiler, because of the mounting holes in the valance. Again, like many here, I tend to drive my car a reasonable amount. I've put 3000 miles per year on it since I got it. It is a very pleasant touring car now, and I intend to keep it that way for the foreseeable future. But those original parts are irreplaceable, so in my mind they must be retained.

Well, then this may not apply to 260Zs. But automatic-equipped 240Zs had dual points and some relays and such to give a different advance curve while the engine was warming up. If there was something similar on 260Zs....

Question - what distributor do you have in the car? Is it a dual-point as used on 240Z automatics? Did the 260Z use points at all?

Normal, if you didn't drain the tranny prior to the job. The rear seal runs on the slip yoke of the driveshaft. With the driveshaft out, you've got a huge hole in the rear serving as a pour spout. Don't forget to refill once you get it back in place and the driveshaft in place. I'd also recommend loosening the filler plug NOW, while the transmission is out of the car.

No, the ZX is a totally different body/chassis. Not even close.

Looks like shipping protectant (cosmoline) which yellows badly over time.

Yeah. I'd see about modifying the one you now have. I had the u-joints replace on my 240Z's driveshaft and had it balanced. Cost about $90. Add that to the cost of a used driveshaft. Might be money ahead to do the one you already have.

Probably. Have you called them to ask?

Yes, the 72-74 should bolt right in. The 70-71 is about an inch shorter.

I'm pretty sure that my former 10/70 car also had the larger studs, but I can't confirm that. If so, the change over was probably between 7/70 and 10/70.

I haven't rebuilt Datsun horns, but I have rebuilt the horns on an early MGB, which looked much the same. If the horn can be disassembled (screws or rivets holding it together), you should be fine to rebuild. Because generally all they need is to be disassembled and thoroughly cleaned. There's not much in there to wear out.

Earlier cars used the smaller stud ball joints. Not certain which month they changed from the small to the larger. I know that they used the smaller through at least 6/70 (as that is what a7dz's car is), but had changed by 4/71 (as those were what the steering knuckles I got for his car came from). The smaller ball joints are supposed to be difficult, if not impossible to find. If your car came with the smaller studs and you can't find the correct ones, you'll need a pair of steering knuckles from a later car. What is your car's production date?

The Datsun 720 4X4 trucks used a 4.11 R180 in the front.

Man, that is some really fine stuff! Thank goodness I don't need or want most of it, though. My wife would make me replace the floor in the kitchen if I bought any of the pricier parts. I am thinking about the muffler, though...

No, not 'nearly none' - pretty much none at all. 240Z bumpers are an appearance item, and a place to hang the front plate from, nothing more.Ask kyropa what he thinks about his 280Z bumpers. While driving at a local Datsun gathering last month, he hit a deer with his 280Z. Very low speed, but hard enough that it bounced the doe back off the road. The deer then left the scene without leaving her name or insurance info. Damage to the Z? A slightly bent license plate. That's all. The big 280Z bumper took the rest of the impact. That same story on my 240Z would have been ugly.

Take a look at these: http://www.zccjdm.com/catalog.php/azcarbum/dt55266/pd1790406/280Z_TO_240Z_FRONT_BUMPER_CONVERSION_BRACKETS_

Tim, there's a blue 280Z here in the Eugene area whose owner has removed the bumpers. He built a custom tube grill for it to fill the huge grill opening. He also built a little nerf bar set up for the rear. I don't particularly care for the look, myself, I'd rather have the stock bumpers than what he has done even though I generally dislike the big bumpers. I guess while I don't care for the 280Z bumpers, they are still better to me than some of the home-built alternatives. But to each his own.

Best bet for you, Walter, would be to buy a reman dizzy from Napa, or Kragen, or whoever you like in that vein. For example, here is the dizzy itself from Napa: http://www.napaonline.com/MasterPages/NOLMaster.aspx?PageId=470&LineCode=NRD&PartNumber=48619&Description=Distributor+(Electronic+w%2fo+Module)+-+Remfd The pros to doing this is that you get one with nice bushings and a rebuilt advance mechanism and such. But there are a couple of downsides. The dizzies bought that way rarely come with modules, and probably never with the mounting tower. The modules can be found on other Nissans in the wrecking yards, lots of early 80's Nissan four cylinders came with the E12-80 too. I've got one I plucked from a 210 wagon, and I've seen them on numerous pickups too. Not sure if the mounting tower was used on anything other than ZXs, though. Maybe some of us out West need to start plucking more of these things and re-selling them to the rest of the country.

Nice Series 1 240Z! I too have a soft spot for 919 yellow. Welcome!

I've found I'm good in mine into the mid-90s, just opening all the windows. Shoot, that's better than riding in the back of my parents' no-A/C station wagon on vacations all over the West back in the '60s. Maybe we were all tougher back then...

Side note - I think I might want to have a die-cut BRE logo for my front spook. Anyone heard if Les or the re-incarnated BRE has plans to repop those stickers?

Don't get me wrong, guys. I'm with you on the 'driving' part. I too want to drive my Z, which is why my car - despite its very original condition - will never be even a #2 car. The best I can shoot for is a high #3, because I enjoy driving it too much. Mine even gets driven in the rain occasionally. Gasp! But there is a place in the car world for those people who can afford - and want - to keep a special car in pristine condition. That's what this car is, and how it will probably stay. The people who do this typically have very nice - but still lesser - examples that they drive when they can.

One last thought regarding the A/C. Some of the comments about wanting A/C in a Z do have merit. But I think we need to remember that cars of this caliper are NOT typically used as daily - or even weekend - drivers. This car will sit in a climate-controlled garage somewhere, and will come out for shows and such. For this purpose, A/C is not just redundant, but not wanted at all.

If you like the look, I'd say to do it. I'm quite certain that once you have one in hand that you'll be able to figure a way to seal the holes. And as Carl noted, the benefits are fairly well documented. I thought about adding one to mine when I painted it, but decided that while I do like the BRE rear spoilers, I still prefer the look of the rear end of a Z without. But that's totally personal.