Arne

The base distributors from '79-83 (non-turbo) are all pretty much the same. The '79-80 dizzies came with the E12-80 ignitor module, which is the preferred (simplest) module to use. The later modules apparently can be used with a little extra wiring, I've heard. And any of the '79-83 modules will fit an any of the '79-83 dizzies.

And in answer... Quite so. I could not care less about having A/C in a 240Z. And most owners of fairly original 240Zs do tend to feel this way, in my experience.In fact, when shopping for a 240Z of this type, the LACK of A/C is a plus, not a minus. People looking for this type of car want one that hasn't been mucked with.

Yeah, they puked a pile o'coolant there...

Probably not all that helpful, Mike. There's only 2 photos in there!! Fixitman, I'm going to assume you are interested in modern ICE? Not old vintage stuff like I have. If so, you may want to send a PM to Zs-ondabrain as he does this kind of thing for a living, and has done several 240Zs. He'll know what fits, and where to put it all.

I'm going to lock this thread people, the more current one is: http://classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=32383

I'm certain that ZeddSaver's carbs can not be expected to run perfectly without properly synchronizing and adjusting them - especially for a larger displacement engine (your L28) than they were designed for. Time to break out the sync tool and set the idle mixture properly. Your first step will be to drop the jets significantly so that it will run without being choked. Probably 1.5 turns from their current setting, at least. Did you do a initial mixture setting when you installed them?

I've had zero seepage on a stock-type cork gasket on mine. I agree with Chris, a stock type gasket with a bit of gasket sealer on it should work fine. The cork gaskets would have a shorter life than a neoprene gasket would. The neoprene should be reusable indefinitely, whereas a cork gasket needs replaced after a couple or three uses.

Neal, I really think they are the same kit. I don't know if MSA buys from Courtesy, or if they both buy from the same place, but the kits sure appear to be identical to me.

I was thinking that at first, but I realized that if you've never seen anything like that before and didn't know that such a thing exists, why how could you recognize it? I had more info than you did, and so I recognized them at a glance. Knowledge is power...

Yes Dave, KYBs are sealed cartridges.

Not even close. We've had a total of 3-4 days of any precip this summer. Typically, it's dry as all get out from July through the end of September, and often clear into October. Yes, it's wet over the Winter and Spring, but it rarely freezes here, and there's no road salt. Many of us here in Western Oregon drive our Zs year-round. Don't really need A/C in the summer, either.

These square plugs are pipe threaded. The holes are slightly tapered to provide a fool-proof seal. Because of this, they generally require more torque to loosen than was used to tighten. Totally normal.

Mine looks different since I have a 240Z. But if the circled part is what you are talking about, it is the oil pressure sending unit. Very simple to replace.

The steel domes are chrome-plated shells slid over the original domes. Haven't seen a set of those in decades. Used to see them offered for all manner of Brit cars as dress-up items. If you remove the dampers you should be able to slide the shells back off. Other than that, those appear to be identical to the set I had acquired for the yellow car. Four-screws w/o float drains, squared bowl covers and plastic damper caps. After researching it a bit, I decided they were correct for cars from about #2000-7000 or so. I can't document any of that, but that's what seemed logical to me at the time.

I've got a set of those wrenches, and they are pretty nice. But they don't have enough surface to grip a square head, in my experience.

Yeah. When was the last time you saw anything special at a swap meet? In the old days, when your project was finished, you sold the left-overs at club swap meets. These days the good stuff never makes it to the local meets, it goes to eBay instead.

I don't know where to start. I started using eBay way back in 2000. I hate having to deal with it now, especially to sell. But for uncommon items, if you don't live in a large metro area, there aren't many other options.

The trick is to find a tool that will grip the plug firmly enough that you can get some serious torque on it. I've had to go as far as using a pipe wrench with a 3 foot cheater on the end. (Destroyed the plug, but who cares? I got it out.) If the flats on the plug aren't too rounded yet, the 11/16 square socket will be a touch sloppy, but might still be solid enough to get it done.

The early shift lever will not work at all with the later type transmissions. You need a later lever. The same later lever would work for any '72-up transmission (except the T5 from a late ZX Turbo). The lever modification includes cutting, welding and bending.