Arne

I talked to a couple of shops about making these. As you'd expect, the mirrored mylar part is easy. The '240Z' (or other) logo is the hard part. Most tint, sign and glass shops just flat said no. One said he could put the mylar on the inside, but the only equipment he has to die-cut the logo won't cut the thin tint material, only sticker-grade vinyl. The vinyl is too thick to stick to the inside of the glass and then try to apply the mylar over it. His best advice was to put the mylar on the inside and the logo on the outside of the glass. Not sure how that would look, plus I think the vinyl logo would be in the path of the wipers. Short answer - still looking...

I'm pretty certain that's Dave's stuff. I know that MSA bought a batch of alternator adapters from Dave a while back, as a pilot program. So it seems pretty natural that they'd move to the other stuff as well.

I'm not much of a massive HP type of guy, stock or mildly modded is good enough for me. But I really love the idea of adding that kind of performance to a car with stock body and interior. That is going to be one fast, but great-looking car. Can't wait to see pictures of the finished product.

Randy's other thread on the clutch issue said that he tried that - the clutch fork doesn't move. It's a hydraulic problem. Randy, this is your second Z, isn't it? Not the green one? If so, and you already have one nice one, keeping this one only to pay someone else to repair it for you doesn't seem to make much sense to me. And again, I know this story first-hand.

Maybe. Picture?

Type B is a totally different critter. No similarities at all. No way a Type B lever can spin.

Randy, I've been through the 'parting out' routine, twice in fact. Please believe me when I tell you that recouping a decent value from parting it out requires mechanical ability as well. People will be contacting you wanting to know the price and condition of part X. You'll need to be able to identify it, assess its condition, and guesstimate how much time it's going to take you to get it out of the car to help you set a price. If you are now doubting your ability and/or enthusiasm to repair the car, parting it will not be very rewarding - in fact you'll probably grow to hate it before long. It is also a long process, you'll have a half disassembled car sitting around for months, most likely. And you'll still need to arrange disposal of the remains when you're done. Frankly, the process is not quick, clean or easy. So if the car is close to drivable at this point, I cast my ballot for selling it as is, even if you think you could possibly do better by parting it out.

For the shift lever itself (the chrome shaft) to spin, it would have to be a Type A transmission, with the monkey-motion linkage. The car must be either a '70 or '71, probably with its original 4 speed? If all that is so, sounds like you need new shift lever bushings. OE rubber are still available from Nissan, part number #32853-22000, and you'll need a pair of them. My dealer charged me a whopping $1.65 each with club discount. To install them (or to attempt to tighten the ones already in the car), you must get under the car. I can't remember if it can be done with the driveshaft in place, but even if it can it will be much easier after pulling the driveshaft. (Remember to drain the transmission oil first.) The bottom nut is 14mm, as is the pair of flats on the shift lever just above the bushings. So you'll need a pair of 14mm wrenches. See the attached diagram for details.

Before doing it, you really should try to mock it up, or better yet drive a car with fender mirrors on it. I've done so, and didn't like it. Of course, if you like the look, and usability isn't important, go for it.

True, although front downforce alone is better than none at all. I've also heard - in connection with the Spooks - that if you're only doing the front, the ducted version is a better choice, as it has less downforce than the un-ducted version. If true, the un-ducted one is definitely best used with a matching rear spoiler. I keep forgetting that your car is a 280Z, Mike. Spooks only fit 240Zs, and maybe the early 260Zs.As for air dams, MSA and Black Dragon are the easiest sources to browse.

After a couple of freeway trips in stiff crosswinds and lots of freight trucks, my wife declared to me that she wouldn't ride in the car at those speeds (65-70 MPH) anymore, until I fixed it. Rather than the big air dam, I added a ducted Spook instead. Made a HUGE difference. The car is far more stable, at much higher speeds. Very solid feeling at up to 90-95, which is all the faster I'm willing to push it on public roads these days. It was a very worthwhile addition.

I agree. First step is to bleed it. On second thought, maybe not. I guess we can't assume anything for certain, if we don't know when the clutch last worked. So the real first step should be to double-check that the pedal is attached to the master cylinder pushrod, and that it is adjusted close-enough that the pushrod does move with the pedal. If that checks out, then bleed the system.

Dizzy - I think I'd want to disassemble it for cleaning and lubing, and also to make certain that the bearings under the base plate are still good. Other than that, it should be OK. Also, there is no need to use the ballast resistor with this ignition, you should bypass it instead. No harm in using the stock coil, although a generic aftermarket coil to ZX specs may provide a touch hotter spark, and shouldn't cost more than $15-20 for brand new. Trans - I see no significant benefit to using the BW T5 for a mostly stock 240Z. The ratios might be a touch better, but not enough to worry over for normal use. The 5 speed from the ZX will be a very simple bolt-in for your car, whereas there are several mods needed to install the T5. I'd take that ZX 'box as long as you can get it affordably enough, and have some assurance that it's in decent shape.

Personally? Yeah, I think it'd be fine. Before I made the decision to part out my yellow 240Z, I was thinking of using fiberglass bumpers on it, since the chrome bumpers I had for it were trash. Had I done so, I think I would have painted them the same color as the tail finishers. Not all that much different than carbon, really.

You could do worse than either of the colors on Mike or beandip's cars. This picture doesn't show them as bright as they are in real life, both colors are pretty vibrant. Ooh, good call! Dakar Yellow...

I knew you'd say that, Doug!

I'd go with a yellow of some sort, probably not metallic, and not too greenish. Definitely not the original Lime color, not with the dark wheels and bumpers. The early 919 yellow wouldn't be too bad with the dark trim, nor would some of the later more vibrant yellows. Just my opinion, but to me yellow cars with dark trim are great looking...

I'd put a couple ounces of ATF into each cylinder and let it soak there for several days. Then change the oil and use the high-detergent diesel oil as step two.

I'm going to disagree. If the engine has been sitting, and it's passing enough oil to slick up the plugs, I doubt that it's the valve seals. Valve seals typically let the oil in on overrun. Rev it up and it runs clean, back off and while it returns to idle (high vacuum) it sucks oil down the valve stems, and then makes a big (but short duration) puff when you open the throttle back up again. No, my guess is sticky oil control rings. Compression rings are still doing their job, but the oil rings are stuck in gunk in the grooves and aren't scraping the cylinder walls clean. Did you pour ATF in the cylinders for a few days before starting it the first time? ATF is highly detergent, and can de-gunk the oil rings if you let it sit and slowly soak down past the compression rings.

PCV is the big nipple that points out and downwards in the middle between the carbs. It should have a hose that goes down to the pipe that sticks out of the side of the block below the distributor. Edit: I don't have a clean picture of my yellow car after I got it done, but here's a notated picture from the red car. A couple of things on yours would be cleaner with the correct air cleaner box. Plus the carbs work better with the factory air box with air horns - something to consider.

Whew!! I saw the thread title (some pics from cleveland!) and - what with all the spammers today - I feared more porn! What a relief to find real Z content!

Obviously the dual over-under glasspacks is very period correct, although they can be louder than some people like. About the only currently available commercial system that is similar to the period commercial systems (such as Stebro, Ansa, Daytona, etc.) is the Monza - which is a 2.0" mandrel bent, dual muffler system. Actually, my car still has a locally built system that the original owner had installed many years ago. Mine is a small diameter (1.75") single tube, with a single 24" glasspack in the transmission tunnel, and that's it. Mine is still fairly quiet, but it has a very smooth, mellow exhaust note. Not pretty, but it sounds pretty nice.

I would, if it wasn't 950 miles away... We have plenty of nice Datsun-only events up here in Oregon, but not much that include other Japanese makes. More's the pity.

I must admit that I for one don't see the need for yet another place to 'register' our cars.

Yup, I'm sure. I sold both brands for years. Big difference in construction design, but not obvious at a glance to those who don't have personal experience with both.In fact, my 240Z had Appliance Fine Wires on it when I bought it. So my memory is fresh on this one. P.S. - I sold mine...