Arne

Sorry, Bryan, I don't agree. A sports car should have a firm ride, but it should not shake or vibrate. Mine is smooth all the way to 90+, which is as fast as I have driven it.

I agree that the left rear is a problem. I also agree (having done alignments with this type of adjuster before) that correcting it with the eccentric bushings will be a PITA. I'd be looking at finding the root cause and correcting it there, rather than a band-aid fix. Look for a tweaked lower control arm on the left rear, bad bushings, or perhaps a bent rear bushing support brace.

The part number for the '77 is different than the one for the '76. Doesn't mean it won't work, but it's less likely.

If you like it, buy it. But if you're going to wish you had bought the BRE-style every time you look at it, save your money for the one you really want.

Oh boy, where to start. First, wheel alignment has absolutely nothing to do with wheel shake or vibration. That is a wheel balance issue. Second, the reason the shop couldn't adjust your rear alignment is that there ARE no adjustments possible. If the rear is significantly out of spec, either the car is severely lowered or something is bent. Did the shop give you the specs? If so, please post them, along with the type of springs and shocks you have on the car. A rear alignment kit for an S30 consists of eccentric poly, nylon or delrin bushings to replace the normal bushings at the inside of the lower control arms. You really shouldn't need these on an undamaged street car at anywhere close to normal ride height. They should be used to compensate for a small amount of body shell warpage, to correct camber and/or toe on a radically lowered car, or to fine-tune the settings for track use.

I should probably let Dave address this, but I'll give it a try anyway. The problem with LED bulbs is that - unlike normal incandescent bulbs, the light output is highly directional. Using an LED bulb in a housing that was designed for normal bulbs generally gives a small, intense spot of light, it does not light the entire unit. There are a few LED bulbs that are better, they have additional LEDs pointed to the sides and/or rear. But even these typically don't do the job well. That's why Dave does rows of LEDs throughout the entire light housing.

Guys, I suspect the single row is the parking light, while all three rows is the blinker. I don't think we're looking at two separate options here.

I'd start calling the usual suspects. Z Barn, Danny's Datsuns, Bad Dog, etc. I suspect that the reason no one has answered is that no one has one to share. That, or maybe they are ignoring a post that probably should have been posted in the Parts Wanted section of the classifieds.

Actually, I look at that picture now and see that I must have taken it a couple of days prior to the removal. By the time it left, the doors, harmonic balancer and timing cover had been pulled off as well.

No, not by a long shot. Since you haven't been hanging around, you may not have seen what I've really been focusing on:http://classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=30588 I'm not sure that this is very representative, as every car is different. In my case, I left it on wheels and suspension for ease of removal. Turns out that I gave the shell to a guy who wanted the suspension.

Well, it was fun while it lasted, but I'm pretty much out of the Z parts business. Yesterday the remains of my yellow car were hauled off. Not to be crushed, but by a guy who plans to strip it even further to maintain several other old Zs that he owns. So it still isn't a total loss yet. From the viewpoint of the guy who hauled it off, there was still some value left. But frankly, most of the good stuff was gone. As you can see from my sig below, there were a lot of beneficiaries, several of those 54 cars more than once. And I did keep a few parts as as spares, as my storage space permits. I had a good time helping others with affordable parts, thanks to all of you here who made parting my car (in some ways) a pleasant experience.

http://store.datsunspirit.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=85

Alan, please don't take too much offense at this, but I find your frequent reminders about the world-wide nature of the S30 somewhat tiring, especially when posted in a thread whose context (like this one) is almost solely US-spec 240Z centered. A large portion of this thread has been discussing the particular oddities of the carpets as delivered in the US 240Zs. In that context, Mr. Pilati's statement was correct. For you to grab it out of context, and then 'correct' it can appear petty and almost spiteful. Frankly, I am in awe of the breadth of your knowledge on the S30s, and have learned much from your posts here. But at times, your efforts to broaden discussions that started as US-240Z topic into a world-wide topic seems somewhat off-base. My opinion only. I don't expect others to agree.

Goodness knows I understand that sentiment right about now...

I like Z32's much more than 350Zs. Good luck with the sale.

I can't wait to see the car in person at Canby next month.

The quote was $3500 for pretty much just exterior paint and minor dings. No rust repair, no real damage repair either. He hasn't uncovered any surprises so far, so I expect that to still be valid. Of course, you also have to consider the rest of the costs - the $350 or so for new weatherstrips and other rubber bits, the $380 for a windshield and the labor to install the front and rear glass, the $450 for the roof re-skin (and I already owned the skin), etc. It'll be $5000 for a paint job by the time it's finished. Some cars might not be worth that, but this one is.

The car the 5 speed came from had a different axle ratio than your car does. The gear needs to match the rear axle ratio.

My guess is that those are a custom one-off, a combination of Q45 guts inside a halo-ring-equipped MSR lens and housing.

Starter you have is fine. Keep the throw-out bearing collar matched to the clutch pressure plate. If you are re-using your current 4 speed clutch, use the throw-out bearing collar from the four speed, not the new 5 speed. You may also want to move the speedo drive gear from your 4 speed into the 5 speed. That should be it.

New rubber bushings are available from your Nissan dealer in fairly short order. Part number is 55541-E4100.

A small puff of blue smoke on cold start is far more likely to be valve stem seals, not rings.

Oops! I read your question wrong, Jim. He did that because he didn't want high-build primer in the slots. He will hand prep the grill area.

Actually, I think all '71s need cutting. But '72 and '73 are fine.

Because the paint on the radiator support is fine, and I don't want to paint over the original sloppy flat black paint.