Arne

The broken part is the check valve for the air injection. The two empty fittings should connect to each other. The vacuum line to the distributor needs to be relocated to a small nipple on the front carb. The two capped off fittings on the balance tube need to connect to the emissions devices as shown in my attached picture. This will be a good first step, but I don't think it will cure all your problems.

I wonder how many of the watchers are members of this forum, just interested in seeing what happens?

Gus, I believe the one you want should have a 90 degree bend at both ends, and the orientation of the two bends should also be at 90 degrees to each other. Between the bends it should be straight, no curves.

EDIT - I took too long composing this, you replied that the car isn't running well while I was typing. But I'll leave this post here anyway, as it may be relevant to someone else. I'm with Bruce on this one. Why mess with them if they're working? The float level is the primary mixture adjustment. If the car is running reasonably well, and the nozzle adjusters on the bottom aren't either bottomed or topped out, there should be no need to do anything with the floats. In many years of working with SUs (both British and now Datsuns), I've seen lots of decent running cars well and truly messed up because someone felt they needed to "re-adjust" the carbs. Fact is, once set, you shouldn't need to change them unless you tear them apart.

Yup, it's a complete car, not individual parts.

Since I last posted, I found this picture of Mike B's 110 red with black stripes. I now definitely prefer white on red. (Sorry, Mike.) But I don't know that I want white on mine since it has black interior, so I think I'll go without.

I don't think so, Tim. (Man, I sound like Al on Tool Time. )If you are swapping from a 4 speed to a 5 speed, it is very straightforward, other than the issues you ask below. (Swapping from an automatic is a somewhat different story.) You either need to cut the floor, or have a custom shift lever fabricated. The current four speed lever won't fit at all, and no later lever (4 or 5 speed) will work without floor cutting. I'd say that's a firm maybe. The lower boot might be able to accommodate a slightly larger hole, if it was cut as minimally as possible. But you may have to get creative with a different boot. Optional. Your slave cylinder needs to match the clutch fork that you use. It is my understanding that either the early style (adjustable slave and fork w/hole) or the later style (self-adjusting slave and fork w/o hole) can be used as long as the combo is matched. Take your pick.Other thoughts - if you are using your existing clutch, use your existing release bearing collar, not the collar that may come with the 5 speed. You will also nee to change the speedo gear in the 5 speed to match your axle ratio. You should be able to use the gear out of your current 4 speed for that.

I echo Steve's comments above. I'm currently looking for a new windshield for my car while it's being painted. Non-shaded are not available from Nissan, and my glass contacts are still hunting for non-shaded after-market. No luck so far.

No. You'll need to wire them. Might even need to change the sending units.

Had I completed my yellow car, I think I'd want a set of the black stripes on it. I've seen both black and white on red cars. I think white looks slightly better on red to me, but since my '71 has black interior, I think I'd want to stay with black stripes on it if I did them. Anyone got a picture of a red 240Z with black stripe kit on it?

Stock springs are not available from Black Dragon, nor MSA, nor any of the other normal vendor. Nissan discontinued them years ago. Courtesy Nissan had a batch of reproduction springs made a few years back, but they may be sold out. Might worth a call though.

Here's a thought - the 240Z came with different starters (and solenoids) for manual and automatic transmissions. I've always assumed that the difference was in the throw of the bendix drive. The later cars used the same starter regardless of transmission. So if you have swapped from automatic to manual transmission on your car, you may need a different starter.

Bumper shops can't do it, they are vacuum-plated plastic. There are places that can re-plate them, but the cost far exceeds buying a complete new grab handle from Nissan.

But are you also looking at the painted air dam below the bumper on those two examples? If so, those are aftermarket parts, not factory.

The old sunroof is already tentatively spoken for. If that changes I'll put an ad in the classifieds.

For obvious reasons (see my roof skin thread), I'm preparing to glue a headliner up in the near future. After looking at the underside of mine, I'd recommend that those of you who have one that is partially sagging go ahead and completely remove it first, then reapply it. Because you're never going to get good adhesion if you don't thoroughly clean and prep the metal that you are going to glue it onto. You'll want to get the old glue and foam remains off first. And you can't do that if the headliner is not completely removed. I have both the original headliner from my roof donor car, as well as a new replacement from MSA (just in case). The MSA is a nice looking piece. The foam even has a fabric liner on the inside that should help prevent excess glue from soaking into the foam, which could cause dimples when it was firmly applied to the roof. But -- while the grain of the vinyl is a reasonable match, the MSA headliner lacks the little perforations that are in the original, at least in the 240Zs. So it's not a perfect match for my car. Because of that, I will attempt to re-use the original that I removed from the donor, and if that works I'll re-sell the unused MSA kit.

It was a hard call to make. I didn't care for the sunroof from the beginning, to the point that I initially was going to pass on the car because of it. After thinking about it, I decided the rest of the car was too good to pass up, even with the sunroof. And my wife even kinda liked it. Since the sunroof was in good shape and didn't leak, I probably wouldn't have done this if the paint was OK. But my car -- while it looks great in pictures, or from 10 feet or more -- has many small flaws. A couple of scrapes to bare metal, lots of rock chips on the nose, and 37 years of very small door dings. Not to mention that the 905 red has faded so much that it really looks like 110, the later orangy-red. There was no question that I'd get it painted at some point. Now that the failed yellow car project is behind me, this was the time for paint. And obviously, if I was ever going to do something about the sunroof, this was also the time.

If the pedal slowly drops while you hold steady pressure on it, you either have a small fluid leak, or the master cylinder is "by-passing" - in other words, one of the seals inside the master cylinder is allowing the fluid pressure to leak back past the piston. Often, a by-passing master will feel fine with a hard, sharp application, but will fall to the floor with a soft, steady pressure. If you have a leak, you should have noticed a serious loss of fluid by now. If that hasn't happened, it's time for a replacement master cylinder.

Randy, I've never seen the chrome screw covers offered separately either. Nissan sells the grab handle as an assembly with the trim covers, and I think that's the only way to get them.

Yeah, they look like Revolutions to me, too.

Yup. Not painting under the hood as that is still great. Same with the interior. The painter is going to start with commercially available matches for 905 red, and then fine tune by matching the underside of the tool bin lids.

Delivered the car to my local painter this afternoon. Two to three weeks, he says.

Mike, my experience with the internals of Datsun transmissions is limited to the earlier Type A four speed. But I'm certain that the guts are similar enough to say that you can't just "peek" in there. The mainshaft nut is deep inside, you'll need to completely remove the gearset from the case to check it. If you have doubts about the bearings or synchros, sure, take it apart and deal with those, the bearings and correctly tighten the nuts when you're done. Otherwise I'd say let it be.

The pressure plate and release bearing collar need to be matched. There are no advantages to a stock 280Z clutch over a stock 240Z clutch. So I'd use the complete 240Z package you already have in your car, since you KNOW that setup works. Although, if it were me, I'd re-surface the flywheel and use a new disk and release bearing for sure, and probably a pressure plate as well. At 74k I think you'll find when you get it out that what you have now is significantly worn. The key if you do replace the pressure plate will be to verify that it is the same as the one in your car now. Some outfits may sell a later style as 'one-size-fits-all-Zs' which is not true.

Just got off the phone with my local painter, he's ready for the car earlier than I had expected. I deliver it late tomorrow afternoon!