Arne

Prior to the 10% ethanol change, I was getting 20-22 in town, and 30 on the highway. In-town seems to have dropped since the gas change, haven't done any road trips to check since then.

The diaphragm is for the pumping action. The pump attaches to the head and is sealed there by a pair of gaskets on either side of the insulator. Might simply need new gaskets. Gary, thanks for posting about the diaphragm. I didn't know it was still available. I will have to get me one just to have, since I still have the original pump.

Randy, both of my (at the time) functional '71s had/have issues with that. I suspect that adjusting the cable/wire that works when you go full left might help. If you get yours fixed, let us know what you did.

You've got uneven pressure to the front calipers, or a sticky caliper. Both the pull to the left, and the blued left rotor indicate that the left is working much harder than the right. If the flexible lines are stainless braid-covered teflon (and both are the same manufacturer), I strongly suspect the right caliper has a stuck piston.

Welcome, Jason! Ahh! You've obviously been reading a bit prior to this first post. You rock!

Could be unevenly adjusted rear brakes, or a partially restricted right front brake hose. How old are the hoses?

Since the pulley is not coated, that would seem to eliminate the fan clutch as a possibility.

Be warned, Tim. Real 240Z bumpers are hard to find these days, and can be quite expensive for nice ones - Several hundred per end easily. If you like the look, but don't need chrome, you might look into the fiberglass or CF 240Z-style bumpers that MSA sells.

I've found that removing the nuts from the long bolts at the nose of the diff can often be very hard with the diff in place. For me, it seems much simpler to drop the whole diff instead. Support the car as noted above. Then unbolt the half-shafts from the diff flanges, as well as the driveshaft at the pinion. Don't remove the driveshaft from the rear of the tranny, the gear oil will all drain out through the rear. Just support the driveshaft in place but out of the way. Then remove the two diff to mustache bar nuts, support the diff with a floor jack from the rear of the car and unbolt the cross-member from the body. Slowly let the jack down and forward. Doing it this way allows everything to be torqued properly, and also is necessary if you plan to replace the upper strap.

I've had three different '71s, two 4 speeds and one automatic. They all had the type in your second picture as well. I probably have one or two used ones available if you need one.

But dishwashing soap may not strip silicones or other things the PO may have used. A true wax and grease remover will.

I'd recommend stripping the old wax off first, then starting with a fresh wax or polymer, as you prefer. To strip, try something like this: http://www.griotsgarage.com/product/car+care/car+waxing/car+waxes+and+sealants/griot%27s+garage+paint+prep.do?search=basic&keyword=paint+prep&sortby=newArrivals&page=1 Personally, I still prefer wax. A good, non-cleaner, non-polishing carnuba works great for me.

Not news. Big thread on this back in 2006. http://classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=23384

So how many 240Zs are there in NH?

Thanks, Kats, that is great. I had hoped you might see and read this post. I've printed your translation out and filed it with the tag for safe-keeping.

Not good news, then. It sounds likely that you have a valve problem. Perhaps burned, perhaps stuck partway open. The other possibility is broken rings, but in that case you often get a little compression, not zero. I suspect a valve problem. First check the valve clearance on that cylinder. If that seems normal, turn the engine over and see it the valves are both moving smoothly. Last, turn the engine until both valves for that cylinder are closed, and apply a little (just a little) compressed air through the spark plug hole and listen for leaks. You should be able to identify intake, exhaust or crankcase that way.

I have the ever-popular 60 amp ZX alternator on my '71. I noticed that if I sit waiting for a green light with the lights on, turn signal going, wipers and heater fan running, none of these things slow down or dim while the engine is idling. With the original 40 amp alternator, things got ugly in that situation. So I'd say that my experience is that more than 60 amps is not necessary unless you have a lot of extra consumers.

With stock suspension, '73s sit slightly higher than earlier 240Zs, due to the beginnings of the bumper height regulations. All 240Zs sit higher than original when gas shocks are used with stock springs. Can make a difference.

Larry, on a 240Z you may need to watch for clearance while turning at the front valance under the turn signal. Lowering the car will make that worse, but if you have an air dam instead of the stock valance parts you may be OK. Not a definitive answer, but the best I can do with out test fitting.

Hmm. I know that a new hood release cable grommet comes pre-installed on new cables from Nissan, and a new speedo cable comes with the grommet too, but hadn't looked into getting the grommets separately until you asked. Speedo grommet appears to be 24250-89943 thru 7/76, list price is $1.13, should be still available. A cursory look through the fiche didn't locate the hood release cable grommet separately. But that probably just means I don't know where to look.

Also check the turn signal and hazard switches. The brake light circuit passes through both of those on it's way to the rear.

Those tires are very short in height, the same height as the stock 13" tires for a 510. To fill the fender gap better with 15" wheels, you need taller tires. To get close to stock height for your car, you need something like 205/60-15. Another popular size in 15" for a Z is 225/50-15.

You left out the important part -- what size tires are you running? The tires are what determine the fender gap.

OK, shoot me a PM with your eddress and I'll put it on the list. Got to cut the roof off the parts car this weekend, and hopefully put the red car back together next weekend. Shortly after that though, I plan to pull the gearbox out of the parts car, and at that point I'll (obviously) have the crossmember available.

Actually, my research showed that the lack of drain plugs went much farther than that, through at least 6/70 production. I know that a7dz's car from that month has no drain plugs, and it's been in their family since new.The real key to the earliest carbs seems to be the shape of the float cover. Early covers were round with screw bosses shaped like Mickey Mouse's ears. Later covers were more square shaped. I also had a pair of four screws without drains, but they (like a7dz's) had the later square float covers.