Arne

But dishwashing soap may not strip silicones or other things the PO may have used. A true wax and grease remover will.

I'd recommend stripping the old wax off first, then starting with a fresh wax or polymer, as you prefer. To strip, try something like this: http://www.griotsgarage.com/product/car+care/car+waxing/car+waxes+and+sealants/griot%27s+garage+paint+prep.do?search=basic&keyword=paint+prep&sortby=newArrivals&page=1 Personally, I still prefer wax. A good, non-cleaner, non-polishing carnuba works great for me.

Not news. Big thread on this back in 2006. http://classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=23384

So how many 240Zs are there in NH?

Thanks, Kats, that is great. I had hoped you might see and read this post. I've printed your translation out and filed it with the tag for safe-keeping.

Not good news, then. It sounds likely that you have a valve problem. Perhaps burned, perhaps stuck partway open. The other possibility is broken rings, but in that case you often get a little compression, not zero. I suspect a valve problem. First check the valve clearance on that cylinder. If that seems normal, turn the engine over and see it the valves are both moving smoothly. Last, turn the engine until both valves for that cylinder are closed, and apply a little (just a little) compressed air through the spark plug hole and listen for leaks. You should be able to identify intake, exhaust or crankcase that way.

I have the ever-popular 60 amp ZX alternator on my '71. I noticed that if I sit waiting for a green light with the lights on, turn signal going, wipers and heater fan running, none of these things slow down or dim while the engine is idling. With the original 40 amp alternator, things got ugly in that situation. So I'd say that my experience is that more than 60 amps is not necessary unless you have a lot of extra consumers.

With stock suspension, '73s sit slightly higher than earlier 240Zs, due to the beginnings of the bumper height regulations. All 240Zs sit higher than original when gas shocks are used with stock springs. Can make a difference.

Larry, on a 240Z you may need to watch for clearance while turning at the front valance under the turn signal. Lowering the car will make that worse, but if you have an air dam instead of the stock valance parts you may be OK. Not a definitive answer, but the best I can do with out test fitting.

Hmm. I know that a new hood release cable grommet comes pre-installed on new cables from Nissan, and a new speedo cable comes with the grommet too, but hadn't looked into getting the grommets separately until you asked. Speedo grommet appears to be 24250-89943 thru 7/76, list price is $1.13, should be still available. A cursory look through the fiche didn't locate the hood release cable grommet separately. But that probably just means I don't know where to look.

Also check the turn signal and hazard switches. The brake light circuit passes through both of those on it's way to the rear.

Those tires are very short in height, the same height as the stock 13" tires for a 510. To fill the fender gap better with 15" wheels, you need taller tires. To get close to stock height for your car, you need something like 205/60-15. Another popular size in 15" for a Z is 225/50-15.

You left out the important part -- what size tires are you running? The tires are what determine the fender gap.

OK, shoot me a PM with your eddress and I'll put it on the list. Got to cut the roof off the parts car this weekend, and hopefully put the red car back together next weekend. Shortly after that though, I plan to pull the gearbox out of the parts car, and at that point I'll (obviously) have the crossmember available.

Actually, my research showed that the lack of drain plugs went much farther than that, through at least 6/70 production. I know that a7dz's car from that month has no drain plugs, and it's been in their family since new.The real key to the earliest carbs seems to be the shape of the float cover. Early covers were round with screw bosses shaped like Mickey Mouse's ears. Later covers were more square shaped. I also had a pair of four screws without drains, but they (like a7dz's) had the later square float covers.

Just a WAG on my part, from all that we can see and read. I suspect they are four-screw roundtops and an early non-flapper airbox on a pair of 260Z 2+2 manifolds.

I didn't want to reply yet, because the one I have isn't out of the parts car yet. And I don't know that I'll have time to get it out for a few weeks yet - other weekend projects are in my way. All that said, if you can wait a few weeks, I will have one available.

You may have gunked up oil control rings if the engine sat unattended for years, and then not properly prepped before firing it up. Check out this thread: http://classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=22619 In particular, it may be worth doing the ATF in the cylinders thing to attempt to free the rings up.

Those are list prices according to nissanparts.cc, not discounted at all. The prices at that site are very similar to the discounted prices I got from my local dealer. Time to ask your dealer about his Z Club "discount".

Tim, no offense intended, but you are dealing with a 32 year old car. You will find - as time goes on - more and more things like this. Parts that are hard to find, things that break, things that previous owners hocked up, things that don't work like you think they should. These are all part of owning and driving an older classic car. If you are going to get "stressed out'" over these kind of normal old car problems, then it may be time to re-evaluate whether a classic car is the right car for you.

I posted the link in your other thread.

Ouch, these dudes are spendy. http://www.datsunstore.com/product_info.php/cPath/40/products_id/275

Has the car been sitting for some years prior to your firing it up?

Original tools, also from a '71. Note the scissor-type jack. Originally came with four spare lug nuts, too.

Umm, the copper tube is what makes it work. I think you need a new one.