Arne

As long as the overall diameter of the new tires is similar to the stockers, your stock spare will work fine, regardless of the wheel size. It will probably be a lot closer than the doughnuts that modern cars come with these days.

Yup. I figure that the repaint of mine -- exterior and jambs only, no interior or engine compartment -- will end up costing $4000 easy. And that doesn't include the cost of reskinning the roof to get rid of the sunroof, or my time to strip off and reinstall all the glass, weatherstripping and trim. And my red car is an easy one -- no rust, no prior accidents, no color change, and really nice under the hood.

Three weeks minimum. Maybe longer.

Hmm. It will be interesting to see what I find when I go to pull the buckets off my car for painting. Because I strongly suspect that they've never been off since it was built. If I remember, I'll try to post back here with my results.

In my experience, painters don't pull engines. You have to pull it. And it will add a fair bit to the cost. If the engine compartment is nice now, I'd stick with 905 red. That is what I will do on mine, even though red isn't my favorite for a 240Z. Would rather have 919 yellow or 918 orange. But to paraphrase, "We don't go to buy the color we want, but buy the color that's available..."

Sounds like you have front turnsignal harnesses, not tail light harnesses. The tail light harnesses for 240Z changed for late '71 through '73. I believe I probably have what you need. Send me a PM.

It's also been for sale before. Definitely on craigslist, maybe eBay. Seems to me that his ad has improved, it sounded pretty arrogant last time I saw it offered. Might also have come down a touch on price. I've not seen it in person, don't know how nice it really is.

Mark, Welcome to the site, and congrats on the purchase of your 280Z! Unfortunately, your first post here is not one that will make you many friends, as this has been brought up so many times in the past that many of the longtime members will ignore your request (at best). Please familiarize yourself with the excellent search function of this site. You will find lots of info on common new owner questions like this. Searching for 'swap bumpers' gives two pages of threads. Now, short answer - yes, it can be done, but it is not a simple bolt-on job.

Yup. He's worked it all out quite well. I haven't done it yet, but I might at some point.

If reddat is selling them on eBay, that means they are almost certainly still available from Nissan, probably at half his price.

The only problem with that idea, Dan, is that I'm convinced that with the windows down, the fumes were actually coming in the window opening, not leaking past seals and such. I'm not convinced that sealing a 240Z completely will always fix this, as there seems to be other issues in play.

Just to recap, my '71 did have this problem when I bought it, but does not now. I did extend my exhaust, but not even as far as you have. But at about the same time as I did the tip extension, I also added a front Spook, and readjusted my ride height. Most stock 240Zs sit a touch lower in the rear than the front. While it is pretty much at the stock height, mine is now the other way, a small amount lower in front. I can't honestly say which of these things cured my problem, or if it was a combination of some of them. But I do know that seals and weatherstripping was NOT part of my cure, as those are unchanged (for now).

Sorry, I couldn't see the attached pictures the first time I read this, and was in a hurry so I apparently didn't read it all either. Since extending the tips didn't help, I'm still wondering about aerodynamics. Is the green car still on stock suspension? Not lowered? And no front spoiler of any kind? It's certainly possible that the second pipe down exiting a couple inches lower than normal could have an affect. Reducing the amount of airflow under the car may help as well, by either adding a front spoiler or lowering the front ride height in comparison to the rear.

Checking seals is a fine idea, but in my experience, fumes that are present ONLY WHEN THE WINDOWS ARE DOWN is an exhaust and aerodynamics issue. Many people have cured this by extending their tailpipe to a bit beyond the bumper bar. Worked for me.

Z Car Source in Arizona lists it, but they are closed while they relocate to a new building. http://www.zcarsource.com/content/p/9/pid/44648/catid/6831_6861/Wiper_Motor_Bag Not certain, but I think I've seen them someplace else, too.

Sounds like your car is an automatic to me. Or was originally. If so, that relay has something to do with the shifting from one set of points to the other in the automatic's dual-point ignition.

Dynomax #17-741 for 2.25" pipes, or 17-742 for 2.0" pipes. The cases are round, 6" in diameter, and about 14" long. Still might be a bit big for the driveshaft area though. I've got a 24" glasspack in the tunnel on my 240Z, with no rear muffler or resonator at all. Reasonably quiet, but that may be more from the small 1 3/4" pipe the previous owner had them use when he had it built up.

Well, everything about the tag is consistent. I found it under the console, and 86700 seems to confirm that it had something to do with console assemblies. The date of July 20, 1971 is consistent with everything else on the car to this point - prod. date 7/71, seat belts 7/71, etc. I'm wondering if the part number indicates a console sub-part, in the same way that the dash wiring harness has a part number in the fiche, but consists of two sub-harnesses that each have their own number that's not listed anywhere. Perhaps this is the number of one of the metal spreader bars that were glued into the console shell, or something along that line. I dunno, just a guess. But I do think it's fun to have, even without knowing more about it. Seems to pin my car's production to the final week or so of July, doesn't it?

And here's a pair of Mikunis with manifolds. No relation to seller... http://portland.craigslist.org/clc/pts/646512051.html

I can't remember if I posted this before or not, a quick search makes me think not. Anyway, for those of you who are interested in the odd date codes and such, here is a picture of a tag that I found on top of the transmission tunnel, under the console. The part number that is hand-written on it, seems to indicate a sub-part for the main console. At least, I can't find the entire number on the fiche, but the first half (86700) always is the console itself. Anyone want to take a stab at decoding it?

Yeah, there is a fusible link that runs from the big lead on the starter solenoid to the wiring harness. When that one blows, nothing works. See the attached picture.

Nice, Mike. If the pieces for behind the seats were right for Series 2 I'd take it all off of your hands!

Not for Mikunis or Solexes, but pretty cool for a four cylinder L-series. And more affordable than I would have thought. http://portland.craigslist.org/clk/pts/645273859.html

215/70-14 are 2 sizes taller and wider than stock for a 280Z. Stretch them onto a 7" wide rim, and you may have clearance problems, especially if the car is lowered. I would not normally recommend that tall a size, especially on a 7" wheel.