Arne

Sounds like your car is an automatic to me. Or was originally. If so, that relay has something to do with the shifting from one set of points to the other in the automatic's dual-point ignition.

Dynomax #17-741 for 2.25" pipes, or 17-742 for 2.0" pipes. The cases are round, 6" in diameter, and about 14" long. Still might be a bit big for the driveshaft area though. I've got a 24" glasspack in the tunnel on my 240Z, with no rear muffler or resonator at all. Reasonably quiet, but that may be more from the small 1 3/4" pipe the previous owner had them use when he had it built up.

Well, everything about the tag is consistent. I found it under the console, and 86700 seems to confirm that it had something to do with console assemblies. The date of July 20, 1971 is consistent with everything else on the car to this point - prod. date 7/71, seat belts 7/71, etc. I'm wondering if the part number indicates a console sub-part, in the same way that the dash wiring harness has a part number in the fiche, but consists of two sub-harnesses that each have their own number that's not listed anywhere. Perhaps this is the number of one of the metal spreader bars that were glued into the console shell, or something along that line. I dunno, just a guess. But I do think it's fun to have, even without knowing more about it. Seems to pin my car's production to the final week or so of July, doesn't it?

And here's a pair of Mikunis with manifolds. No relation to seller... http://portland.craigslist.org/clc/pts/646512051.html

I can't remember if I posted this before or not, a quick search makes me think not. Anyway, for those of you who are interested in the odd date codes and such, here is a picture of a tag that I found on top of the transmission tunnel, under the console. The part number that is hand-written on it, seems to indicate a sub-part for the main console. At least, I can't find the entire number on the fiche, but the first half (86700) always is the console itself. Anyone want to take a stab at decoding it?

Yeah, there is a fusible link that runs from the big lead on the starter solenoid to the wiring harness. When that one blows, nothing works. See the attached picture.

Nice, Mike. If the pieces for behind the seats were right for Series 2 I'd take it all off of your hands!

Not for Mikunis or Solexes, but pretty cool for a four cylinder L-series. And more affordable than I would have thought. http://portland.craigslist.org/clk/pts/645273859.html

215/70-14 are 2 sizes taller and wider than stock for a 280Z. Stretch them onto a 7" wide rim, and you may have clearance problems, especially if the car is lowered. I would not normally recommend that tall a size, especially on a 7" wheel.

Well...yeah. On the other hand, if the timeslip he has posted on Photobucket really is from this car, it truly IS faster than most. After all, 13.36 @ 99.6 in the 1/4 is nothing to sneeze at.

I agree with Stephen. The disc is not centered, and that's why your alignment tool doesn't slide in all the way. If the alignment tool will slide into the disc at all, the splines are good enough. I see no problems there that would necessitate a new disc.

My advice - don't rush the re-assembly. It's not worth it. Take what ever time you need to do it right. You'll be happier in the long run.

Nobody cares about 260s and 280s, Austen, just 240Zs. Just kidding! But for the purposes of this thread -- i.e. identifying the number of remaining 240Zs -- Carl's registry on Zhome.com still is unavailable to 240Z owners who don't use the Internet. And there's no way for us to find them and make them register, either!

Phil, I've got some of what you'd need. I have a bare dizzy with the proper tower. But it has no module or vacuum pot, and the bushings have some play in them. Are the shaft bushings in your points dizzy OK? If they are, I'd consider a new Pertronix instead. Probably cost about the same, and a whole lot easier to find.

Not so easy, even if you could do it. First, there's probably a lot of them that aren't currently registered, and second, not all states identify the model on the registration. I believe that the Oregon registration for mine calls it a '1971 DATSU 2DR'. Or something along those lines. You'd probably have to search for 'HLS30'.

This topic has been discussed many times. Do some searches for 'flattops' and other words like 'options', 'choices', 'conversion', etc. to see some of the previous talk. Short answer -- for a mostly stock 240Z you probably can't do much better than a nice re-built set of round-tops. A set from Z-Therapy will work great out of the box, and will cost less than Webers, Holley conversions, etc.

Agreed, Stephen. But not possible when attempting to retro-fit the system from an S130 into an early S30. The guy who did it was force to make it up as he went. The results were not pretty.

My first '71 had been 'converted' to injection, using the system from an '83 ZX. Yes, it worked. But it was a total mess with new wires and such all over the place. I ended up converting back to SUs. In my experience, trying to retrofit the later injection to an earlier car is more trouble than it's worth. Like everyone else here, if I wanted injection on an early carb'd car, I'd go aftermarket as well.

Probably has 90 wt. GL4 in it, if they followed the factory recommendations. Pretty thick when it's cold. If this is the case, for your climate especially I would consider going with a good synthetic. I'm using Redline MT-90 in mine.

Re: #1 - Probably gear drag. The difference would be most pronounced when the transmission is cold, and less noticeable as the gear oil warms. What gear oil are you using?

Plenty of them left in Oregon and Washington too, Walter. Take a look at the Z attendance at Datsun meets in these parts. Here in the Eugene-area, I personally know of at least 10 240Zs that are still in semi-regular use. For a population center of only about 300,000, that seems fairly high compared to the rest of the county.

Auction was ended early.

Spinning it in neutral does nothing. It must be in gear so that spinning the mainshaft also spins the input shaft, which is the part that needs to be spun.

And I'm eagerly awaiting the chance to see it in person!