Arne

Well...yeah. On the other hand, if the timeslip he has posted on Photobucket really is from this car, it truly IS faster than most. After all, 13.36 @ 99.6 in the 1/4 is nothing to sneeze at.

I agree with Stephen. The disc is not centered, and that's why your alignment tool doesn't slide in all the way. If the alignment tool will slide into the disc at all, the splines are good enough. I see no problems there that would necessitate a new disc.

My advice - don't rush the re-assembly. It's not worth it. Take what ever time you need to do it right. You'll be happier in the long run.

Nobody cares about 260s and 280s, Austen, just 240Zs. Just kidding! But for the purposes of this thread -- i.e. identifying the number of remaining 240Zs -- Carl's registry on Zhome.com still is unavailable to 240Z owners who don't use the Internet. And there's no way for us to find them and make them register, either!

Phil, I've got some of what you'd need. I have a bare dizzy with the proper tower. But it has no module or vacuum pot, and the bushings have some play in them. Are the shaft bushings in your points dizzy OK? If they are, I'd consider a new Pertronix instead. Probably cost about the same, and a whole lot easier to find.

Not so easy, even if you could do it. First, there's probably a lot of them that aren't currently registered, and second, not all states identify the model on the registration. I believe that the Oregon registration for mine calls it a '1971 DATSU 2DR'. Or something along those lines. You'd probably have to search for 'HLS30'.

This topic has been discussed many times. Do some searches for 'flattops' and other words like 'options', 'choices', 'conversion', etc. to see some of the previous talk. Short answer -- for a mostly stock 240Z you probably can't do much better than a nice re-built set of round-tops. A set from Z-Therapy will work great out of the box, and will cost less than Webers, Holley conversions, etc.

Agreed, Stephen. But not possible when attempting to retro-fit the system from an S130 into an early S30. The guy who did it was force to make it up as he went. The results were not pretty.

My first '71 had been 'converted' to injection, using the system from an '83 ZX. Yes, it worked. But it was a total mess with new wires and such all over the place. I ended up converting back to SUs. In my experience, trying to retrofit the later injection to an earlier car is more trouble than it's worth. Like everyone else here, if I wanted injection on an early carb'd car, I'd go aftermarket as well.

Probably has 90 wt. GL4 in it, if they followed the factory recommendations. Pretty thick when it's cold. If this is the case, for your climate especially I would consider going with a good synthetic. I'm using Redline MT-90 in mine.

Re: #1 - Probably gear drag. The difference would be most pronounced when the transmission is cold, and less noticeable as the gear oil warms. What gear oil are you using?

Plenty of them left in Oregon and Washington too, Walter. Take a look at the Z attendance at Datsun meets in these parts. Here in the Eugene-area, I personally know of at least 10 240Zs that are still in semi-regular use. For a population center of only about 300,000, that seems fairly high compared to the rest of the county.

Auction was ended early.

Spinning it in neutral does nothing. It must be in gear so that spinning the mainshaft also spins the input shaft, which is the part that needs to be spun.

And I'm eagerly awaiting the chance to see it in person!

If the transmission is in neutral, turning the engine might well turn the input shaft at the same time, and never get lined up. The engine has much more resistance to turning, so if you turn the transmission you are unlikely to move the engine with it.

No no! Don't try to start the motor! And even turning it by hand is not the best way to do it. Instead, put the transmission in gear, any gear. Then slip the driveshaft in the rear and spin the transmission using the driveshaft.

First, pumping the throttle on SUs does absolutely nothing. They don't have accelerator pumps. In fact, you should not use the throttle at all during starting. Just leave it alone until the motor starts and stabilizes. What all did they do to it? Did they adjust the valves? Perhaps the valves are adjusted too tight?

Very possible. That's where my red car came from. The former owner lives less than three blocks away from me. I drive past his place several times per week. I had no clue he had a Z, until he walked up to me one day while I was working on the yellow car in my driveway, introduced himself and told me he had a 240Z he wanted to sell, and asked if I had any idea how to contact other Z people.Make's you wonder how many of them are scattered throughout the Western states unseen in garages.

There is no difference in the clutch itself between mechanical and hydraulic. The clutch fork, pressure plate and release bearing all work exactly the same as a cable or linkage operated clutch. If the clutch won't disengage, you have one of two issues - either the hydraulic system has a problem (air in the system, bad cylinder at one end or the other), or there is a problem with the mechanical parts inside. While you could conceivably have a bent clutch fork or something like that, it is FAR more likely that the hydraulics aren't working properly. Clutch hydraulics are no big mystery, they work exactly the same as the rear brake cylinders do. All the same procedures and methods apply.

I hear ya. The front Schnitzer wheels on the 328i are nearly black looking from brake dust. Too damn wet and cold to get motivated to wash it.Shoot, even the Z is covered with road spray grime, 'cause it does get driven now and again, even if it's wet out.

Gary, you've a got a bit of a mean streak, don't you?

This could be interesting, although I don't know how valuable it might be since so many flat-tops have been scrapped by now. http://sacramento.craigslist.org/bks/638553825.html The body of the ad:

No doubt. But lots more people already own timing lights.

Or you can use an inductive timing light to test for spark. More easily found that the inline spark checker.