Arne

Yes, that something is, "There's no such thing as manual windows on a new car anymore." More's the pity.

I imagine that in MN it'll be in storage until the road salt is all washed off the roads, something that those of us on the West Coast don't have to think about. Yes, it's too cold here in Oregon today to ride the two-wheeler (high was about 36º F here today), but that doesn't keep the 240Z in the garage. I drove mine to work today, and will probably drive it the next couple of days as well. I do feel bad for those of you in the snow belt.

No, #1 cylinder is at the front of the engine nearest to the radiator, #6 is nearest the firewall.

I have years of experience in brakes, and I will NEVER use a rebuilt brake master cylinder, or rebuild one myself unless new ones are simply not available. When I did this stuff for a living, I never had a rebuilt master cylinder last even through a 90 day warranty. Never. Not once. Installing a rebuilt master cylinder back then (10-15 years ago) was a sure-fire guarantee that we would be doing the job again after a short time. For brakes, it's just simply not worth it IMO.

I'm far from a paint expert, but I'd guess that in addition to the normal prep work, you might also want to put a flex agent in the paint.

Not to pick on you for being young, Andy, but if you were old enough to remember the late '60s and early '70s you'd remember that right side mirrors were not common on any cars back then. Shoot, even high-end companies like Porsche charged extra for the right side mirror through the late '70s. (And Porsche charged a lot for them! Not cheap.) So there really isn't a story about why, the answer is that not many other cars had them either.

Bleeders must always be at the top, so that no air is trapped above the bleeders.

The brown in '73 was also metallic, so it may have been clear-coated as well. I know that the metallic green on my wife's '74 B210 back in the day was factory clear-coat, so I'd bet the '73 brown was too.

Amino Alkyd Enamel. Whatever that is...

I'm leaning towards a valve adjustment problem. If the valves are not opening, that would account for the lack of vacuum at the front carb.

I paid less than that for my Series 2, which had less than 60k miles on it (documented), almost 100% original (dang sunroof!) and zero rust (West Coast car, seldom driven in rain and always garaged). Yes, it will need paint, carpet and upholstery. But still a far better buy than this Series 1.

Welcome to the site! I found this by using the search feature, searching for "honda wiper motor'.

I've been following Jim's project since we first met in person in June of 06. The work he's done is very impressive, more so in that he has done this job on a car that has always been in his family, and even though it's been done to a high level, Jim plans to drive the car, which I love to hear.

Can be removed and plugged without problems, if you no longer have the smog gear. Here are three pictures. The first two are pictures are of cars that have been plugged, the third is my red car with everything as stock.

I just bought a Nissan filter from my dealer a couple months ago. Part number was 22183-A5502, and it was in stock and also still inventoried. Nice large filter, pretty Nissan engine blue in color. After club discount, I paid $5.31, about the same or less than a Fram or other generic aftermarket filter. On the other hand, my local dealer has given me a few odds and ends that they've had sitting around for untold years. Notably a small box of assorted OE-style wire hose clamps.

Undoubtedly a 205/60R13 Wingfoot. The original Goodyear Wingfoot was a Americanized version of the European Goodyear NCT (Neutral Contour Tire). The NCT was steel belted, the Wingfoot was Aramid (aka Kevlar) belted. Both shared the same tread design. The NCT was blackwall only, but the Wingfoots all had the narrow white pinstripe and lettering as shown. Most Wingfoot buyers couldn't handle the white stripe on performance tire, and had them mounted black side out. The Wingfoot was a good performing tire, as American-made tires went, but the NCT (which was OE on Porsche and others) was still better. The Wingfoot was eventually replaced in the US by the Eagle GT.

That pretty much covers it. The resistor by-pass is technically optional, but doing that will allow hotter spark. I hooked the single wire that went to the points dizzy to the "C" terminal, and ran a new wire from the (+) terminal of the coil to the "B" terminal on the module. Or you could run a new wire from the (-) terminal of the coil to the "C" terminal, whichever way works best for you.

Justin, you need a special turbo exhaust manifold. Can't use an off-the-shelf header. Puts the turbo too far downstream.

New tanks are no longer available, haven't been for years. I have no experience with coating them, but many others here have. Lots of them have done it themselves with excellent results. Try searching the forum for 'fuel tank coating' for a starter.

What John said above, with the addition that even all that might not be enough, you might need spacers even with coilovers. The rears will have 5 3/4" back spacing, and fronts 5 5/8"! That's a lot for a Z.

And when I got my driver's license, brand new 240Zs were still being sold...

Norm at Zeddsaver can re-plate them, but I do believe it is expensive. Zeddsaver just did a pair for a7dz, perhaps he'll see this and chime in.

Justin, 13" wheels won't fit of the front brakes on a Z. So yours almost have to be 14". For performance use you'll want 15" or 16". Personally, I LIKE the old school look on a Z, but then, I'm not so young myself anymore...

I just thought of something - any thoughts to making the black plastic hemispherical antenna base? The originals all seem to suffer from UV damage by now.

Yes, the distributor shaft needs to spin at half engine speed. Sounds to me as if either the distributor shaft is bad, or perhaps the oil pump drive shaft (which is what drives the distributor) is bad. Step one - remove the distributor and see if the shaft in the hole where the distributor goes spins while cranking. If it doesn't, you need to drop the oil pump and check the drive shaft. If it does spin, you've got a bad distributor. Or perhaps a distributor which came loose and not fully bolted down.