Arne

It's been for sale for at least a year, if not more. Price is too high, at least for the West Coast. http://bringatrailer.com/2007/12/07/period-styled-1971-datsun-240z-in-la/#more-116

Oops! I missed this request earlier. I zipped the full-size scan and attached it here where it can be downloaded.white face gauge my own printable 4 25.JPG.zip

This should be in the Classifieds, not here in the forums.

I repaired my first 240Z's clock using the instructions found here: http://classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=18442

You know, Mike? I have also thought that mandrel bends might not be necessary for my application as well. You're right, it does look nicer, but what you described would still be far better than the 1 3/4" squash bent system now on the car. I'll PM you my address, I'd love to see some pictures. Or you could just post them here for all to see.

I'm almost certain that I will end up having it built locally. Problem is that - in my neck of the woods - doing it the way I want is not just a little more, but quite a lot more. I've only got one shop around here that does mandrel bending, and they are quite proud of their work. They've quoted me $400-500 to do what I want: aluminized 2" or maybe 2 1/4" with a resonator and a round Dynomax in the rear. (I don't need 2 1/2" for a bone-stock L24.) I keep hoping I'll find something mass-produced that would be close enough to what I want. But I don't think it's going to happen.

It will leak, but it won't completely un-do what you did on the bench. The purpose of bench bleeding is to get the air out of the master cylinder valving, not to be totally ready to go. You will still need to bleed the lines at the master cylinder after final installation.To minimize the leakage, I normally bench bleed, then re-insert the shipping plugs while I move the cylinder from the bench and into the car.

Figures. I'd like a smaller diameter system both to keep the noise level down and because a bone-stock L24 doesn't need a 2 1/2" exhaust. And I'm trying to avoid the over-under Ansa look. I was looking at the specs on Dynomax's web site - the muffler MSA provides has side and center outlets? Would it make things easier to fit the muffler if it had side outlets on both ends? (Not both on the same side, but staggered.)

Any new updates on this thread? Comments on sound (volume and tone)? Pictures of how the muffler finally fits?

The basic pushrod setting should be the same for any master cylinder that is properly designed to fit your year Z, regardless of maker. That said, the reason that such things are adjustable is to make allowances for things like different manufacturers with slightly differing manufacturing tolerances. So a small adjustment might be needed.

Mike, your deeper dish could be from offset, but is more likely simply due to them being 7" wide, as opposed to the more typical 6" width. Don't get me wrong, I do like slots. I'm just not certain I like them quite as much as a few other styles. Especially on the red car, we've gotten used to it with fairly flashy rims on it (first the chrome wire wheels it came with, now the fully polished wire mags). Plus I'd need to buy a new set of tires for them, the current tires aren't really wide enough for 7" rims. I have considered just buying the new rims anyway, but I don't really have a good place to store them, I don't think my wife would be amused at me putting even more Datsun parts in the spare bedroom...

Thanks for the info, guys.LanceM - the airdam on your car probably has more clearance up front than the stock valance corners on my car. However, your results are still encouraging as I believe the wire mags you run have the same offset as the slots, and you are running larger tires than I would. MikeW - I'm not sure if your results help much, as I seem to recall that the US Indy's did have a more typical zero offset, not the -10 or so of the Appliances. I was also hoping to avoid having to go that small on the tire size. And again, your airdam (as shown in your avatar) probably has more clearance than my valances. I dunno. Still waffling. Neither the size (14x7) nor the style (slots) are my first choice for replacement wheels. Not that I hate slots, I don't. But still not my first choice. But I'm still attracted to the thought of NOS.

Steve, check the area I circled in red. Make certain that the spring end is not grounding out there. I've seen instances where the insulator can snap out of the hole when the screw for the lead wire is tightened. Make certain that the insulator on the end of the spring is well seated in it's hole.

A correction and a picture. Correction - I got my description wrong in the first post. The arm that is significantly shorter than all the rest is the Series 2 driver's side arm, not the Series 1. Picture - Here is the undersides of my pair of Series 1 arms (no logos). Similar to the NOS one from moonpup.

Thanks for that, moonpup. Same flat face, same nice, shiny chrome finish.

Yes, it did. ROFLGotta rank this discussion right up there with "which oil is best" and "should I remove my 280Z bumpers".

Probably was related, Mike. The later cars both have two-sided keys. What struck me was not just the different shape, but also the bright chrome finish on the early lock.

Maybe, but that never seems to work for me...

Nuts, simply nuts. I sold one that appears to be just as good to a member here for his low-VIN resto a month or two ago, for far less than that. They aren't all that rare. Good for the seller, but not so great for everyone else.

Mine are unpainted, Dan. Unmolested low miles car.

I spent some time today cleaning in the garage, which in my case always ends up with me sorting and organizing parts. And I noticed a couple more differences between my early '71 car (aka Series 1 or 1970 production) and my later '71s (aka Series 2). In both cases below, the parts in question from 12743 (10/70) are different than the parts from either of my later cars - 27602 (4/71) and 37705 (7/71). The first two pictures are of the glovebox lock. Note that the surface of the button of the early car is completely flat, while the later cars' buttons are concave (dished in). The pictures don't show it well, but the early car's button is also a very nice chrome finish, while the later cars buttons have a satin finish. The second pair of pictures are of the wiper arms. The first picture shows that the early arm for the driver's side is noticeably shorter in length than the arm on later cars. The later cars' arms are both about the same length, but have a different angle from side to side. The early car's arms still have the different angle, in addition to the different length. The second wiper arm picture shows that the early arms did not have the manufacturer's logo at the base, but the later arms do. I don't know if the early arms were made by the same manufacturer or not. Can any one else confirm these differences?

Mark and all, it's my guess that both opinions are correct, for the situations described. Seems to me that I have seen dyno charts for a SU-equipped L24 with stock and aftermarket exhaust, and the difference was nothing like yours. I suspect that in your engine's case, the stock exhaust was only barely up to handling the two barrel carb. So adding the four barrel alone did little, the exhaust was the bottleneck. It would be interesting to see what the exhaust did with the stock carb. Did your L28 come with a single outlet exhaust manifold?On the other hand, in the L24 as used in the US 240Z the horsepower bottleneck is not exhaust. Adding a good exhaust alone to an otherwise stock L24 does little. More intake (i.e. triple carbs) is what really wakes up a 240Z.

Edit - Upon review, it looks like Daniel was already doing the kW to HP conversion. My bad.

He's down under. Their dynos measure power in kilowatts, not HP. A kW is larger than an HP. I don't know the ratio, though.

It will work, but retards the timing by about 8 degrees when it doesn't get a signal from the injection. There are workarounds, but using the E12-80 instead is much cleaner. As I noted in your other post, yes, you can replace an E12-93 with an E12-80. The distributor itself is the same. The ability to edit a post times out after 5 minutes or so.