Arne

Konig doesn't make those sizes. Not sure about Panasports, but you can call Les at Classic Datsun Motorsport to find out.

True, I always double-check the gap before installing them. But I like starting with a pre-gapped plug close to what I want, that way no big adjustments are needed, just small tweaks. So for stock coils with ballasts I use NGKs without any suffix (pre-gapped at .9 mm or .036"). For hotter coils I use the -11 (1.1 mm or .044").

I wouldn't think that the stock coil with ballast would have any hotter spark than the points, just a whole lot more accurately fired with the Pertronix. So I think I'd stay with the smaller gap in that case.

Pre-gapped to .044".

NGK here as well. Use the -11 for electronic ignition. If you're using points, stick with the normal BP6ES. Jim, I'm glad Champions have worked for you, but that's one brand I won't use unless nothing else is available. I've had more Champions fail over the years (in motorcycles and ATVs) than you can count. In fact, way back in '86 when I bought a new Honda TRX250R I was talking to the tech that was prepping it prior to me picking it up. He saw that it had a Champion in it and replaced it with an NGK on the spot. Said he might as well do it now, as he'd end up doing it under warranty later if he didn't.

Won't hurt a thing, just make certain it's in neutral. This is assuming that the transmission's not seized...

Doug, it's either a Group 24 or 24F, I can't remember which off the top of my head, and I rode the motorcycle to work today and can't look at it. The difference between the two is that the posts are reversed. And actually, depending on your cables, either might work. I've got the correct one in the red car, and the 'incorrect' in the yellow with the cables rerouted. But again, the physical size is Group 24/24F.

You know, this comes up often enough that we need to deal with it properly. The lack of diagrams in even the factory service manuals is a problem. Perhaps those of us who own stock, unmodified cars could draw up a diagram, one for each model year. I can do this for a US market '71 240Z, who else wants to take a stab at this?

Appliance called them TurboVecs, and -- as the name suggested -- they were a cross between the Western Turbine and the American Racing Vector. They did not originally come with the insets painted, just a natural cast finish. The ones pictured are early ones, in the early '80s they retooled for a very large, special lug nut system (called Roto-Lugs).

Sorry, Will. My experiences have been otherwise.My old 323i (graymarket euro model) had 225,000 km on it when I bought it. I drove it for 5 years, sold it with 330,000 km. Still ran perfectly, didn't burn a drop of oil, almost nothing broke, and the repairs and maintenance cost was far less than most other cars. I have found most BMW car parts to be fairly affordable, just don't buy them at the dealer. The guy I sold it to is still driving it now, five years later. Still hasn't had any expensive problems. My brother has an '87 325is - same story, except he has owned it for over 12 years now. And my current 328i has been much the same. Parts are reasonable - I overhauled the cooling system on it. I bought a new OEM radiator, water pump, thermostat, aluminum t-stat housing, both serpentine belts and both hoses for a sum total of $250 + shipping. Try doing that for your Z. Sorry to be long winded here. But people see 'BMW' and see visions of dollar signs, both for the purchase of the car and later for maintenance and repair. Yes, they are expensive if you buy them new, but I won't do that. I bought my 328i as a six year old used car with 35,000 miles, and paid less than what a new Civic would cost. Just have to be smart about it.

The 325e (2.7 eta mill) is a torquey, low revving motor. Condition is everything, if in solid shape it can be a very reliable machine. Those little M20 small block sixes will run almost forever given decent maintenance. Although I must admit to having no experience as to the reliability of the automatic - I haven't had an automatic in any car for over 30 years. But my daily drivers for the past 10 years have been 3 series - an '81 323i first, and now a '96 328i for the past 5 years. Great driving cars. But a warning: if the seller can not prove to your satisfaction (with receipts) that the timing belt has been changed recently, plan to do it post-haste. Because if it breaks, it'll bend all the valves.

This can also be faulty contacts inside the turn signal switch itself. Try this, turn on the right blinker, then step on the brakes. Let us know whether the right side brake lights come on or not.

Yeah, those are two sizes taller than stock. On 7" rims you're likely to have clearance issues on the front when turning, possibly on the rear over bumps as well. And that's if the car is not lowered. Lowered or sagged springs - bad news.

I've found that NGK BPR6EY-11 (V-Power) also work great with the E12-80 ignition, and might be easier to find in some places.

My guess is that the description is accurate. He says it was restored by Bankston Nissan in Texas. He never said it was one of the program cars. As pointed out above, there are several details wrong for it to be a program car. But as a car 'restored' by the local dealer, it looks quite good. Assuming of course, they had a body shop that was good at finding and repairing rust.

Yeah, the red one is one of mine.

As more jurisdictions here in the US go to photo enforcement, there will be more states requiring two plates. FWIW, here in Oregon you are required to have both plates unless the car is registered as an antique or Special Interest vehicle. All 240/260/280Zs and most ZXs qualify as SI (more than 25 years old), but that registration requires that the car not be in normal use - just for shows, events , parades and such.

Jill, I'll butt in here to say that getting that back end is easy - you just need to buy a 240Z. The image on the main page is of a mostly stock 240Z...

Come on, Ian! You've been around long enough to know how to search the site! Search for "holley barrel" and you'll find lots of data. Those manifolds have been made under several brand names - Clifford, Arizona and Bob Sharpe come to mind off the top of my head. To me, they all appear to be the same other than the name. Short version - Opinions are mixed. Some people like them, others don't. Lot's of jets available, if you find someone who knows Holleys.

Looked at through the eyes of someone who completed a bare-tub restoration of a '67 B roadster a number of years ago, I think it has potential, but is over-priced considering the physical condition. First, if the 29k is truly actual, it has not been especially well cared for. Way too much wear and tear. For example - the wrinkle finish on the dash is worn through under the ignition switch. The chrome rivets in the dash used as indicators for the climate controls are totally rusty. The leather upholstery is shot. The car does not have overdrive - what god-awful gadget have they mounted on the left end of the dash where the overdrive blanking plug should be? Carpet on the inner rockers is wrong - what happened to the original rubber rocker covers? Engine compartment needs help, lots of rust and corrosion, and why is the paint bad on the firewall near the master cylinder? How did brake fluid get splashed that high? Don't get me wrong, the car has lots of potential. But the rockers still need to be checked for rust, and the car needs to be disassembled completely for paint and proper trim work. Best guess in today's market - it's worth perhaps $5000 as is, maybe as much as $7500 to someone who can do the needed work himself and really wants a GT. Or $5000-6000 to someone who is looking for a driver right now, and doesn't mind a car that shows significant wear. And here's the worst part, from my personal experience. I had a great time restoring my '67 B. (And previous posters are correct, a '66 or '67 are THE years to have.) Doing the work, finding the right parts, making it right - that was a blast. I drove it regularly for two years post-restoration. What I discovered is that an MGB is much more fun to restore than it was to drive, unless you are looking for a vintage driving car. English state-of-the-art - for 1955 or so, when most of the running gear was designed. Tractor-like cast-iron pushrod engine, fragile transmission with no synchro on first, lever action shocks and a cart-sprung solid axle. The way the MGB drove was one step on the path to me having 240Zs now.

If they use a transparent proxy (via WCCP or simple route mapping), the proxy is likely set to do a reverse DNS lookup on addresses before logging them. Very simple, and not at all unusual in a business network.And I know it works, that's how I have mine set up...

I don't mind white letters, as long as they are solid, not outline. The outline letters never looked good to me, even though I sold them for years.

Steve, the factory ride height at the bottom of the rocker panels (not the pinch weld) measured at the jack points was supposed to be between 7.75" and 8.0". My '71 with 60k was 8.0" up front and 7.875" at the rear with the original shock. If your car sits similar your springs are probably fine. But bear in mind that modern gas-charged shocks will increase the height of a car running stock springs a bit - in my experience KYBs added another 1/4" at both ends.

Seal them too tight and you can get condensation inside. Or so I've heard from people who have them.

No longer available new. Be prepared to spend big bucks on eBay.I'm a bit torn on whether or not I like them. They do clean the front of the car up, but the increased maintenance (as mentioned by Stephen) would be a drag. On the other hand, on our way to the Canby show earlier this summer I met up with a group of 6 or 7 240Zs for the final 10 miles, and three (including mine) were red. Mine was the only red one without covers, and I kinda liked that too.