Arne

My guess is that the description is accurate. He says it was restored by Bankston Nissan in Texas. He never said it was one of the program cars. As pointed out above, there are several details wrong for it to be a program car. But as a car 'restored' by the local dealer, it looks quite good. Assuming of course, they had a body shop that was good at finding and repairing rust.

Yeah, the red one is one of mine.

As more jurisdictions here in the US go to photo enforcement, there will be more states requiring two plates. FWIW, here in Oregon you are required to have both plates unless the car is registered as an antique or Special Interest vehicle. All 240/260/280Zs and most ZXs qualify as SI (more than 25 years old), but that registration requires that the car not be in normal use - just for shows, events , parades and such.

Jill, I'll butt in here to say that getting that back end is easy - you just need to buy a 240Z. The image on the main page is of a mostly stock 240Z...

Come on, Ian! You've been around long enough to know how to search the site! Search for "holley barrel" and you'll find lots of data. Those manifolds have been made under several brand names - Clifford, Arizona and Bob Sharpe come to mind off the top of my head. To me, they all appear to be the same other than the name. Short version - Opinions are mixed. Some people like them, others don't. Lot's of jets available, if you find someone who knows Holleys.

Looked at through the eyes of someone who completed a bare-tub restoration of a '67 B roadster a number of years ago, I think it has potential, but is over-priced considering the physical condition. First, if the 29k is truly actual, it has not been especially well cared for. Way too much wear and tear. For example - the wrinkle finish on the dash is worn through under the ignition switch. The chrome rivets in the dash used as indicators for the climate controls are totally rusty. The leather upholstery is shot. The car does not have overdrive - what god-awful gadget have they mounted on the left end of the dash where the overdrive blanking plug should be? Carpet on the inner rockers is wrong - what happened to the original rubber rocker covers? Engine compartment needs help, lots of rust and corrosion, and why is the paint bad on the firewall near the master cylinder? How did brake fluid get splashed that high? Don't get me wrong, the car has lots of potential. But the rockers still need to be checked for rust, and the car needs to be disassembled completely for paint and proper trim work. Best guess in today's market - it's worth perhaps $5000 as is, maybe as much as $7500 to someone who can do the needed work himself and really wants a GT. Or $5000-6000 to someone who is looking for a driver right now, and doesn't mind a car that shows significant wear. And here's the worst part, from my personal experience. I had a great time restoring my '67 B. (And previous posters are correct, a '66 or '67 are THE years to have.) Doing the work, finding the right parts, making it right - that was a blast. I drove it regularly for two years post-restoration. What I discovered is that an MGB is much more fun to restore than it was to drive, unless you are looking for a vintage driving car. English state-of-the-art - for 1955 or so, when most of the running gear was designed. Tractor-like cast-iron pushrod engine, fragile transmission with no synchro on first, lever action shocks and a cart-sprung solid axle. The way the MGB drove was one step on the path to me having 240Zs now.

If they use a transparent proxy (via WCCP or simple route mapping), the proxy is likely set to do a reverse DNS lookup on addresses before logging them. Very simple, and not at all unusual in a business network.And I know it works, that's how I have mine set up...

I don't mind white letters, as long as they are solid, not outline. The outline letters never looked good to me, even though I sold them for years.

Steve, the factory ride height at the bottom of the rocker panels (not the pinch weld) measured at the jack points was supposed to be between 7.75" and 8.0". My '71 with 60k was 8.0" up front and 7.875" at the rear with the original shock. If your car sits similar your springs are probably fine. But bear in mind that modern gas-charged shocks will increase the height of a car running stock springs a bit - in my experience KYBs added another 1/4" at both ends.

Seal them too tight and you can get condensation inside. Or so I've heard from people who have them.

No longer available new. Be prepared to spend big bucks on eBay.I'm a bit torn on whether or not I like them. They do clean the front of the car up, but the increased maintenance (as mentioned by Stephen) would be a drag. On the other hand, on our way to the Canby show earlier this summer I met up with a group of 6 or 7 240Zs for the final 10 miles, and three (including mine) were red. Mine was the only red one without covers, and I kinda liked that too.

If you are looking for the original cloth covered hoses, start hunting eBay and specialty houses. If you just want proper new hoses, I got all mine from my local Nissan parts department. It helps if you take them the part numbers when you go in, which is a great reason to get the club part CD-ROM.

Yeah, I heard about this yesterday. My prayers to the driver and his family...

Mike, I agree, and I wonder if part of the reason might be that the number of surviving S30s here in the Pacific NW is proportionately rather high, so the dealer people are still used to seeing them now and then. After all, here in my area (population about 300,000) it's not at all unusual to see an S30 driving around, and 280ZXs and old 510, 210 and the like are just as common.

Slow. Mine is a bone-stock '71 240Z, does somewhere around 9.5 seconds as I refuse to abuse the car. R&T magazine clocked theirs at 8.7 back on 1970. Seems about right as I'm probably being easier on the launch and shifting slower than they did.

Really, Mike? None of the US S30's had the antenna switch on the console, to the best of my knowledge.

Yeah, I'm good. ;-)

It's a power antenna switch. Some PO likely moved it there when they installed an aftermarket radio. It appears to be the normal factory '70-71 switch, just relocated.

"Wingnuts" might be especially appropriate in this case...

No, I think you're on the right track there. The factory airhorns should be great inside your filters, assuming that the filters are tall enough.

No, I meant on the sides. As shown in the attached pictures.

Hmm, looks like the rear bumper recesses on the sides have been welded up and shaved.

SUs do have throttle butterflies in addition to the pistons. This theory on the vacuum holding the throttle closed is interesting. I'll have to compare the feel of mine when the engine is not running. I drove it to work today, so might remember to test this on my way home this evening.

No harm to the car, but I seriously doubt that there is any real performance improvement on an otherwise stock L28. That being the case, it might be better for the environment to plan to re-install at least the converter. Just my opinion, others may disagree.

You need an early 240Z tach. They used the four-wire tach in '70 and '71, and the three-wire in '73. I'm not certain about '72s.