Arne

Thread locked. Please move this discussion to the free classifieds at http://www.datsunclassifieds.com

I may still have a few of those floating around in my stash, I'll check tonight when I get home.

Most Japanese car makers and tire/tube manufacturers used that same Pacific cap in the '70s. The reason for the rubber cap on top was actually for tube-type applications. If the tire goes flat, sometimes the tube's valve stem can get sucked inside the tire. The rubber cap was there to keep the sharp end of the cap tool from tearing up the inside of the tire.

You should be able to find a lock that will work at any good locksmith, if that's more convenient than the tool companies. The locksmith I use for my car stuff has lots of this kind of thing in stock, so you can look at and touch it in person before purchase.

That quote is totally out of context, and now irrelevant. The forums were going through a bit of a rough patch back then (6 years, yikes!), a different kind of problem than what some members are now complaining about, If anything, the forums are friendlier on noobs now than in the past.

Never factory installed, always added later, often by the selling dealer. I'd leave it off if it were mine, but some people do like them. Your call.

2 inches is too low for a 240Z, doesn't leave any suspension travel unless you have the struts sectioned. You'd be bouncing on the bump stops.

Mine was in the transmission itself. The woodruff keys that locate the drive gear on the front of the countershaft were worn, allowing the the gear to move on the countershaft. Clunk once under forward torque, and thud back under the reverse. Sounded for all the world like the clunk was coming from much farther back. My issue was a bit unusual, but the moral of the story is that you may have to cast a wider net of troubleshooting to find this, as there are several potential causes. The full story of my transmission clunk starts on this page - http://1971.240z.home.comcast.net/~1971.240z/2007/07-08.html

Another thing to look at closely - the rear louvers pictured are the type that require holes drilled in the tailgate for the hinges and lower latches. Those holes are a prime spot to develop rust.

That was because the US regulations in the early '80s mandated that speedos not read higher than 85 MPH. Stupid, but true. This regulation was rescinded for the '84 model year.

ftfy.

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?21274-240Z-260Z-280Z-auto-to-4-5-speed-swap

I've been watching this a bit since my car sold. Totally unscientific, of course, just word-of-forums kind of stuff. Besides the cars going to the UK, I've heard of several nice examples sold to the Middle East, and a few others (besides mine) going to Scandinavia. As I said, if we Americans aren't willing to pay good money for the premium cars, there will be fewer premium cars in the USA. Shipping them overseas is too easy, and they are even rarer overseas than they are here. It's a world market now.

http://bringatrailer.com

If buyers in the US continue to try to keep 240Z prices low by simply not buying expensive examples or shooting low-ball offers at them, before too much longer there won't be any expensive examples left. Not because the prices will come down—but because the good cars will be snapped up (at true market value) by enthusiasts overseas who recognize value when they see it. I don't think I have to tell you how I know this....

I'm not in love with ZG flares, Dave, but I don't hate 'em either. And I will say that IMO the Rotas are WAAAAY better looking than the Centerlines.

It's been a perennial issue. The 240Z appears regularly on various "buy one while they are still affordable" lists. The funny thing about that is that the collectible car "experts" have been predicting the "discovery" of the 240Z in the USA for at least 15 years now. Still hasn't happened. I figure there are a couple of root causes.One is that despite the attrition over the years, Nissan built way too many, and for the US market they were virtually all the same. So there is no perceived "rarity" to a 240Z, despite the fact that vast numbers have rusted to crumbs by now. And since there were no real factory options or high performance versions here, there's nothing to set some apart from others. IMO, this is where the artificial inflated value on the low-VIN cars among 240Z enthusiasts comes from. Lacking any other distinctive rare versions or options, the low-VIN cars become the only "collectible" sub-category. The other issue holding back the 240Z among mainstream US collectors is that they were built in Japan. Despite all that has changed in the world market (both automotive and in general) since the 240Z was new, a large number of US car collectors can't imagine a "collectible" car from Japan. Most are completely blind to the possibility. Back on topic - This car (despite a few obvious flaws like the aforementioned overspray on the strut towers) is an outstanding starting point to build a really nice #3 weekend driver. With very little work it could be a car that would attract attention where ever it goes, and would show and score well in local and regional import/Japanese/Datsun events. That said, I would be surprised if the bidding goes much above $10k, $12k at the very most. I'd like to be wrong, but personal experience tells me otherwise.

I'm pretty sure that I warned you that you'd regret that choice!

Actually, the radiator support on a 240Z was sloppily hand-painted flat black with a brush over the body color. There are several threads on this here. I was looking through my pictures here at work, but don't have a great example. But you can see the black on this one.

If I'm thinking of the same thing you are describing, those bulb seals are not from any particular car manufacturer, they come with most brands of H4 replacement headlights, though.

This thread is essentially a big "For Sale" ad, and does not belong in the technical/discussion forums. That's exactly why we have a free classifieds site. But since there has already been discussion, I'll leave it here for now.

Mike, I'd like to have it gone before I move to a new place sometime in late June or early July. When do you anticipate being up this way?

Similar story on two more items. • Mustache bar for '70-71 (forward mounted R-180) with nice OE-rubber bushings. Free for local pickup, or pay shipping (may be oversize). • Drive shaft for '70-71 (shorter length for use with forward mounted diff). As I recall, the u-joints are good, but no warranties on that. Again, free for local pickup, or pay shipping (may be oversize).

Here's a long shot—a free transmission. I've got a grubby-looking but known-good Type A 4 speed (correct for '70-71) sitting around here that I will never need. I had it in my yellow car until I parted it, and it was in the red car for a 1000 miles or so while I rebuilt the original. So I know it's good. No unusual noises, shifts fine. Here's the rub—I really don't want to mess with packing and shipping it. So this offer is probably not worth much to anyone who is not within driving distance of Eugene, Oregon. But if you can come get it, or can convince me to meet you on the road somewhere near here, it's free!

I'll add that lots of RWD cars do this. Watch a 911 some time. Since the rear engine car is rather light on the front, the inside front may be several inches in the air - and that's normal. FWD are the other way around. I've got pictures somewhere (film, not digital) of my old Scirocco (with lots of sway bar) in an auto-x with at least 6" of air under the inside rear wheel. Watch a Rabbit on the track some time - it can be amusing.