Arne

No, none what so ever.I have - however - seen pictures of one car with what you describe. And to the eyes of an old BMW owner, it looked to me that it may have been a BMW E21 sunroof mechanism grafted in. The crank, size and other indicators all looked exactly like the sunroof on my '81 323i. That roof, or other similar crank-type roofs could be installed by a good bodyshop, just the same as how a good shop could replace my car's roof with an unmolested one. It just takes time and money.

Makes sense. By using two pins 180 degrees apart, the main effect is that the cancellation should happen any time the wheel is turned more than 90 degrees in either direction whether the car is LHD or RHD. Since the cancellation mechanisms are at top and bottom, the pin needs to be 9:00 for LHD and 3:00 for RHD. Hence -- two pins means Nissan only needed one steering wheel for all markets.

That's where I got mine.

Good point, E. I do know that my wheels all have two pins, but now that I think about it, the second pin should not normally come into play. Maybe it's for RHD? Are the turn signal and combo switches reversed on the RHD cars?

I've also found that stock springs and KYBs make for a good driver.

If cost is an issue, and ST won't help you, you could always just swap them your self. Since the ST springs are short, now a spring compressor is no longer needed. That means with a jack, some good jackstands and normal metric hand tools you should be able to do it in a weekend even if you take it very slowly. You might need a helper to bleed the brakes, but that's it. An experienced person should be able to change them all in 2 hours, three at the most.

For a stock 240Z (no mods), 2.0" isn't bad either, as long as it's mandrel bent.

Two possibilities, Randy. One is that one of the pins on the back side of the steering wheel is bent or missing. (These pins are what trigger the cancelation.) The other is that the left side cancel mechanism on the turn signal switch is either broken (possibly one of the little springs) or gummed up. You'll need to remove the steering wheel to look for this. If nothing looks bad, try putting the steering wheel on upside down (180 degrees off). If the left side still doesn't cancel, it's in the switch. If the problem reverses (right side doesn't cancel) it's the pins on the steering wheel.

Hey! No bad mouthing MGs!!

It'd probably fit, but the whole point of headers is to improve flow. Mis-matched port shapes is going to seriously mess up the flow - quite possibly flow worse than the stock manifold. Seems like a step backwards to me.

Just a heads-up, folks. Used to be that if an eBay user changed their username, there was a little icon. Seems to me that such a user had sunglasses for a while, to indicate a name change. Also, I recall there being a way that you could look up the users' history on name changes as well. This appears to no longer be the case. Case in point, there is no user ur-gelis anymore. Instead, he now goes by the name datsun-parts. I can find no place to verify this, but did hunt through the forum here to find a link to one of his previous auctions, and sure enough, the username is now datsun-parts. One more example of eBay taking care of its sellers, at the expense of buyer information.

Guy claims it's the only 280Z running an LD28. Maybe so, but it's nothing new for the S30 chassis. Here's one among several:

Beats me. I had to read it several times before it sank in.

Up in Portland there's a guy with an electric Datsun 1200 that kicks @$$ in the 1/4 mile on the local strips. Wild ride. Beats the heck out of this one: "78 Datsun 280Z2nd original owner converted to 2200, 4 cyl. Red with Black Interior 2,800 Call..." http://seattle.craigslist.org/tac/car/354894553.html

Note that there were two types. The early 240Zs only came with a single strut on the left side. At some later point they went to a pair of struts, both with mower pressure. If your car only uses the left side strut, you ned the early higher-pressure strut - a single low-pressure strut won't support the hatch.

Sometimes with wiring issues it also helps to know if the car started life as an automatic, as well.

Corvette brakes are spendy. The calipers are all four-piston and frequently need to be sleeved. Don't bite until you know what the brakes will cost you.

Most body men won't try to piece the roof back together. But they can weld on a complete roof off a donor car. I won't rule that out, but it's not too likely unless I start having leakage issues.

Doubtful on both accounts. The ones I just posted are near-mint, and I got them for a ridiculous price. But I need cash to finish the yellow 240Z, so off they go...

Factory ratings for the '70 and '71 240Z was in fact 151. But I seem to recall that some of the 280Zs were rated as high as 170.

Very hard to tell. I've seen this car now at three different events. Didn't realize it was a 260 until after the second one.

Nothing wrong with a good 280Z. Many of us here are much older than you are, and remember when the 240Z - the original Z - was introduced. So we tend to prefer the earlier, simpler and lighter 240Zs. That's all.

That picture is the roof of my red 240Z. The labels inside mine say "SportTtop". I wish mine didn't have it, but c'est la vie. As these things go, this one appears to be better quality than most.

If you mean this one, it is a 260Z, despite having the 240Z taillights. This is the 260Z we have been talking about.

So your car has one like this one?