Arne

I got a full 30 MPG a few months ago, on a 200 mile trip on the back roads. Average speed was about 60 mph. This was in my red 240Z, bone stock '71 with 4 speed. I was pleased, this was my first trip in a Z, I expected worse. You know, I'm not normally one to support high speeds on the public roads, and I don't know the road between LA and Reno, but if it's anything like some of the highways we have here running through the Eastern Oregon desert, 90 mph cruising speed might not be totally out of line. Assuming - of course - that the car and driver are both in top shape. Up here, we're talking good roads, straight and flat for as far as the eye can see and sparse traffic. And boring terrain, too.

It would cost so much to get it changed back that he'd have to GIVE it away. And considering how many times it's been on eBay, he's clearly not willing to do that yet.This car is a sterling example of how you can ruin a car's marketability by doing serious over-the-top mods. The more seriously it is modified, the fewer people are willing to buy it, because the mods are different than what they would do. Someone obviously thought the body and paint treatment were cool, or they wouldn't have done it. The problem is now trying to find someone else who shares that opinion of this work. Apparently finding those people (few as they may be) is proving to be fairly difficult.

Fourth time, I think. Someone needs to put it out of its misery...

Several members of this site make and sell a special tool for removing the spindle pin. With the tool it is a simple and painless job. Don't waste time with torches and such, find and buy the tool instead. You'll be way better off. Here's an eBay link to one of the member's auctions: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/240Z-280Z-Datsun-Rear-Spindle-Pin-Strut-Pin-Puller_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ42609QQihZ002QQitemZ120071161881QQrdZ1

Here in the USA, the carbs used on the '73 240Z and '74 260Z were very poor performers as delivered from the factory, giving 14% less power and very poor drivability. While I believe that with proper knowledge and a some custom work they could be re-tuned, it is far easier to get good performance from the earlier '70-72 carbs instead. Which is what many '73 and '74 owners do on their cars, so for a 280Z conversion I'd recommend the same. Average price for a used set of these earlier carbs w/manifolds and linkage is around $150. Also figure it likely that most any set you get for that amount will probably need the throttle shafts re-done. Check with ZTherapy or possibly Zedd Saver for this service. As far as converting from injection to carbs, my first question would be, "Why?" For street driving on a stock or mildly modified engine there's nothing wrong with the factory injection. Converting will be a fair amount of work for little (if any) gain. But if you do decide that converting to carbs is what you want to do, here is a link to a tech article I wrote on that subject a while back: Fuel injection to SU carb swap

It may fit into a 240Z, but it's not the same. Switch locations and such are different.

It is my understanding that some of the later '73 240Zs do not require a diode. Sounds like your car is one of them. In that case, the diode will do no harm, it is redundant. But you do need the rest of the functions that the jumper wires provide to complete the charging circuit. So plug it in.

It is 65 liters, which is about 17.2 gallons. This is assuming - of course - that the underside of your tank has never been dented. Dents will reduce the capacity.

In my experience, the premium glass will be better. Less distortion, better finish. Typically, the premium will be a 'name' brand, while the standard grade may be some company that no one has ever heard of.

On my yellow '71 which has no smog pump, here's what I did. I still have the PCV (#2 on your balance tube picture) connected to the crankcase vent tube on the block.The port to the anti-backfire valve (#1 on your balance tube picture) is capped with a threaded pipe plug.The port on the end of the balance tube (#3) was already capped off when I got the manifold, and is also capped off from the factory on my other '71 which still has all its smog gear. Both use the same type of pipe plug as I used for the A/B valve port.The port on the airbox that goes to the smog pump (#1 in your second picture) is capped off. (A 3/4" rubber foot for a crutch or walking stick works well. That hole could also we welded up and the airbox painted for a clean look.)I am using the other port (#2) as intended, it is connected to the valve cover breather. This all seems to work fine for my car. Hope it helps you.

I've got PPG glass in my red car, seems to be fine. Talk with a local auto glass shop and see what they recommend. Many times they will have a normal grade and a premium grade. Should be no shipping charge from a local shop.

Aftermarket windshields are easily available from numerous suppliers, so I am assuming you are looking for actual Nissan glass?

I went through this when I restored an MGB a few years ago. MG used at least three different shades of "BRG" on different years of the MGB alone (from '63-80).

As projects go, I really like the look of the third one, the missing wiring would be my biggest concern. Then again, I have a spare complete harness from a '71...

In that case, go back to post #2.

No reason a well-maintained 240Z can't be used regularly, except you should be aware that they aren't particularly good winter cars. And if they use salt on the roads in your area, driving it in the winter is condemning it to a rusty grave.

Excellent points, Jim. Your answer was better than mine.

No thanks! While those tires were considered rather radical back in the late '70s, they're pretty lame now. Those wheels are Superiors, IIRC. I think they were the only aftermarket company that made those 390mm wheels.

There is a threaded rod adjuster on the linkage inside the tunnel. You have to get under the car to adjust it. Make sure the car is securely supported on ramps or jackstands before attempting this.

OMG! It has Michelin TRX metric tires and wheels on it!! If I'm reading it right, they are 220/55R390 as used on some old Ford products. Better put new wheels and tires on your wish list. Those wheels are special and won't accept anything other than those old Michelins. (390mm is about 15.3" diameter.) Michelin is the only company making those sizes, and they are expensive, and not even close to state of the art. But overall the car looks like a great starting point. Have fun!

I figured you didn't have a hand brake on your car, Craig. I certainly wouldn't have one on a track car either.

David, I think you may have mis-understood the question. I think Mike was asking whether he should try to fight to get the other guy's insurance to pay for replacement parts rather than just paying for repair of the damaged parts. If so, my answer is that I'd leave it up to the body shop that YOU select. You are NOT required to use a 'recommended' body shop, but can pick any repair shop you wish. Get estimates from shops with good recommendations, or one that you trust. Talk to them about your concerns. If the shop you select says that they can repair the parts, then don't worry about it. If they say that replacement parts are necessary, they will work with the other guy's insurance to get the authorization. In short, select your own shop, and take their advise.

That may be true for the later Z's, but definitely not for the early 240Zs. For the '70 and '71 240Z, here is the direct quote from the FSM:"When the hand brake is operated, the wheel cylinder lever turns the adjust wheel, and thus, clearance between the brake shoe and the brake drum is adjusted automatically." In fact, in my experience the cars that adjust by braking in reverse are few, especially these days. Mostly big old American iron. Most imports that had self-adjusting drum brakes require regular use of the parking brake to keep the rear brakes adjusted. I suspect the later Zs use this design also.

Actually, none of the 8 colors used on 240Zs for '70 are listed in '70. They are all listed for '71 though, and are all the same.

If he hasn't backed off the adjustment after installing new shoes, the drum won't fit. He should back the adjusters all the way, fit the drum on and then adjust the rear brakes. Might need to back off the parking brake adjustment as well.