Arne

Maybe not. Check out these links:A review of the DatMan bank from Triad Z Club. A thread from North West Datsun Enthusiasts. Scroll way down and you'll find three black and white pictures taken in the lot of Escondido Datsun, which show DatMan painted on the side of the buildings.

Yup, and we also need to keep in mind how important any given repro part might be. For those of us who want to keep our cars looking as stock and complete as possible, the tail light trim is very important. Sure, it'd be nice if they could be sold for less, but as has been pointed out, tooling up for a small run of parts like this is terribly expensive. The fact is that we need to be very grateful that Norm has taken on the job of recreating these parts. While my red car doesn't need them now, it may later, and I'll likely buy a pair once they are available to have if and when. Because they may not be available forever.

So there is no power in the wires to the coil? If that is what you are saying, you have a wiring problem somewhere between the battery and the coil. The usual suspects would be the ignition switch and the tach. You will need to start tracing the power leads backwards from the coil to find the problem. This is not likely to be a problem where someone can simply say, "Your problem is xxxx." It's going to take time and logical thought.

FWIW, here are my thoughts: Question 1: My car is garaged and will seldom be out unsupervised. Therefore I am not all that concerned about theft-deterrents, and will not adding alarms, Lojack, immobilizers, etc., partly due to concerns listed in the next paragraph. But in answer to Enigma's question, the security of the 240Z (like most any car from this era) is not great. Locks were pretty wimpy even when new, and most of them are essentially "one-key-fits-all" by now. The cars are fairly easy to get into, and once inside the car, even if the ignition switch is still good, give me 5-10 minutes with a Phillips screwdriver and a cordless drill and I'll have the ignition lock removed, the car started and be gone. Question 2: Mdalpoggetto, your car and mine are very similar - I have a '71 with less than 60,000 miles that is also virtually all original. It is my intention to do nothing to my car that can't be easily reversed with no after-effects at all. But I do think that in general, cars that have survived this long in stock, unmodified condition should be kept that way. Because there are darned few of them left, and as their custodians I feel we are obligated to try to maintain that originality as much as is possible. There are plenty of modified 240Zs out there, from mild to wild. But not very many stock examples are left...

Jerry, is that price just for a pair of the chrome trim parts? If so, it is more than I would have hoped, but still within a realistic realm. Take a pair of these trim parts for around $250 delivered, and a pair of repro lenses from Too Intense or MSA for around $300 shipped, and you could have a pair of completely refurbished tail lights for $550 and some labor. And considering the prices that NOS lights have been reaching that doesn't sound all that bad.Of course, I've yet to hear from anyone who has physically seen and touched those repro lenses, so I can't say for certain that they look good enough to pass muster. Anyone out there seen them yet?

No, you said that 3 months ago, not years ago. No problems either way. Please do let me know what color yours are.

Never having met you in person Carl, I can't speak to whether you are colorblind or not, but the camera flash definitely lightened the appearance in the picture. Trust me, they are flat black, not the charcoal of the grill and finishers. The wheels I have are dated 4-71, and were removed from their original car less than a week after first delivery. They came to me out of the first owner's attic still with the original Japanese wheel weights attached. Obviously never been painted or otherwise mucked with. And Rustoleum Rust Reformer in Flat Black is indistinguishable from the factory flat black finish.When I asked about this earlier (concerning a spare wheel), the unanimous answer was flat black. http://classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=22654&highlight=spare+wheel+color

Yup. Here are pictures of mine.

As best I have been able to determine, yes.The background is that the 240Z wheels were made for Nissan by a Japanese company named "Topy" who were (and still are) a large wheel maker in Japan. They did lots of wheels for Japanese automakers as well as for commercial trucks. The silver-gray color was the baked finish that Topy applied when they made them. Nissan added the flat black to improve the appearance when the stock hubcaps were on the car. The silver-gray is a fairly durable finish - not so the flat black. I found that Rustoleum Flat Black in their premium rust-converting paint ("Rust Reformer", IIRC) is a virtual dead match for the factory flat black coating. I did half of one of my wheels with the Rustoleum and I can not tell which half is original and which I painted. While the black color is easy, in this case the sheen or 'flatness' of the paint was also perfect.

Actually, the original wheels were first painted with a silver-gray paint over the entire wheel, and then the front side had a quick coat of flat black.

This has been covered before in depth. http://classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=22619

Yup. The basics are the diesel crank, 240Z rods (generally the later rods with 9 mm bolts), and pistons (often modified) from non-L-series engines. Properly over-bored you can get 3.1 to almost 3.2 liters.

If your engine compartment and body wiring seem OK, the dash harness pair may be all you need. Just make certain that this one hasn't been mucked with too badly for aftermarket stereo installations.

Note that from the numbers given, it is not a complete harness. It looks to be the dash harness pair from a 240Z built between 10/72-7/73, and the small mini-harness from the fan switch to the blower. That's all, no engine compartment or body harnesses.

If it were closer to stock, and since it has been for sale for quite some time, it would have sold before now.

Cap and rotor from '79-83 non-turbo is what you want.

Here you go. To get going, you have to imagine how cool it will be to have it on the road. So in case you missed it, here is the thread that describes my first-ever road trip in a Z. Read it and imagine the fun you will have, and the friends you will meet once it is complete. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=23612

I don't think there is any lack of 'respect' for the 240Z. What I do see is that the 240Z community is very tight-knit. People who are looking for a 240Z always seem to be able to find someone who knows someone, who...Thing is that until we start seeing more people looking for 240Zs in collectible or survivor condition, you aren't going to see them at B-J or other big name auctions. If someone has a low-miles survivor they want to sell, and there is only one person at B-J who's interested, the results will be poor. On the other hand, selling privately through other 240Z contacts will likely bring better results. Even eBay will do better than B-J until multiple buyers show up. Currently, the number of people willing to shell out large money for a great 240Z isn't big enough to make selling one at B-J viable. But private sales can still do well. We must accept that lots more people will bid on old American iron than will bid on a pristine 240Z.

I agree with Ron. The stock three speed automatic is not responsive enough, and the ratios are too wide.

Yup. Right off the club CD. These are the numbers I gave my local dealer, with the local Z club pricing they give me: Battery frame -- 24420-E4600 -- $13.98 Battery J-bolt -- 24438-21000 -- $3.15 Note that the J-bolt does not come with a nut or washer, those are separate.

I am also of the opinion that the Webers - once set up and jetted correctly - should work and drive fine. The problem is that those carbs were originally designed as a one-size-fits-all carb replacement for any number of different cars. Additionally, they weren't necessarily designed with multiple-carb use in mind. So getting them spot-on takes time and specialized knowledge.The other part of this is that even if you get them running properly, they have a reputation (I have heard) for poor economy. So my take on the Webers is simple - if you have a pair that are running well and you are happy with, keep them. But I personally can't see wasting any money on trying to fix a pair that aren't currently satisfactory since there are far simpler and well understood alternatives available.

I bought one a couple weeks ago from the dealer. Still easily available.

I heard from Ronnie a couple of weeks ago. He moved to the boonies where he has no broadband, so he doesn't check the club site much anymore. But otherwise all seems well.

The hold-down in your picture is cheap, aftermarket cr@p. A picture of the factory hold-down is attached, it bolts to the firewall, and the J-hook goes down to where the battery support meets the fender well.

There are any number of generic electric pumps out there that will do the job, although some may be noisy. (That's one reason people like the RX7 pumps, they are relatively quiet.) I picked up a generic pump at a local parts house for $30. No brand name, unfortunately. But tell them you want a small electric pump that delivers no more than 5 psi, and around 30 gallons/minute. The one I got looks like the one in the following link. It was available in a 2.5-4.5 psi model, and also in a 5-7 psi model. You probably want the lower one. http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/fuel/fp201.htm