Arne

If it were closer to stock, and since it has been for sale for quite some time, it would have sold before now.

Cap and rotor from '79-83 non-turbo is what you want.

Here you go. To get going, you have to imagine how cool it will be to have it on the road. So in case you missed it, here is the thread that describes my first-ever road trip in a Z. Read it and imagine the fun you will have, and the friends you will meet once it is complete. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=23612

I don't think there is any lack of 'respect' for the 240Z. What I do see is that the 240Z community is very tight-knit. People who are looking for a 240Z always seem to be able to find someone who knows someone, who...Thing is that until we start seeing more people looking for 240Zs in collectible or survivor condition, you aren't going to see them at B-J or other big name auctions. If someone has a low-miles survivor they want to sell, and there is only one person at B-J who's interested, the results will be poor. On the other hand, selling privately through other 240Z contacts will likely bring better results. Even eBay will do better than B-J until multiple buyers show up. Currently, the number of people willing to shell out large money for a great 240Z isn't big enough to make selling one at B-J viable. But private sales can still do well. We must accept that lots more people will bid on old American iron than will bid on a pristine 240Z.

I agree with Ron. The stock three speed automatic is not responsive enough, and the ratios are too wide.

Yup. Right off the club CD. These are the numbers I gave my local dealer, with the local Z club pricing they give me: Battery frame -- 24420-E4600 -- $13.98 Battery J-bolt -- 24438-21000 -- $3.15 Note that the J-bolt does not come with a nut or washer, those are separate.

I am also of the opinion that the Webers - once set up and jetted correctly - should work and drive fine. The problem is that those carbs were originally designed as a one-size-fits-all carb replacement for any number of different cars. Additionally, they weren't necessarily designed with multiple-carb use in mind. So getting them spot-on takes time and specialized knowledge.The other part of this is that even if you get them running properly, they have a reputation (I have heard) for poor economy. So my take on the Webers is simple - if you have a pair that are running well and you are happy with, keep them. But I personally can't see wasting any money on trying to fix a pair that aren't currently satisfactory since there are far simpler and well understood alternatives available.

I bought one a couple weeks ago from the dealer. Still easily available.

I heard from Ronnie a couple of weeks ago. He moved to the boonies where he has no broadband, so he doesn't check the club site much anymore. But otherwise all seems well.

The hold-down in your picture is cheap, aftermarket cr@p. A picture of the factory hold-down is attached, it bolts to the firewall, and the J-hook goes down to where the battery support meets the fender well.

There are any number of generic electric pumps out there that will do the job, although some may be noisy. (That's one reason people like the RX7 pumps, they are relatively quiet.) I picked up a generic pump at a local parts house for $30. No brand name, unfortunately. But tell them you want a small electric pump that delivers no more than 5 psi, and around 30 gallons/minute. The one I got looks like the one in the following link. It was available in a 2.5-4.5 psi model, and also in a 5-7 psi model. You probably want the lower one. http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/fuel/fp201.htm

This auction is a type of advertising, not truly an auction. It basically says, "Please see that I have a pile of cars and parts to sell, and contact me directly so that I can sell them to you outside of eBay." Really cheap advertising, as at that starting bid, he probably paid a $0.30 insertion fee. Of course, it totally violates eBay's rules...

If you are skilled enough to build that, perhaps you could build a small robot. Or maybe a radio controlled scale person. Seems a shame not to be able to drive it on a small track somewhere...

Mine also has the antenna switch to the right of the knob. In my experience, cars with the AM-only radios had the vertical switch to the right of the station knob. AM/FM radios had it over the knob. I believe that all '71s came with the AM-only radio from the factory, but the dealer installed AM/FM units were similar (or maybe the same) as the later units. I could be wrong, though...

Well, if you aren't much of a mechanic you probably won't want to try to learn by jumping in the middle of a partially assembled motor. As I see it, you have a couple of viable options: One would be to take it as is to a shop that is very Z-knowledgable. You don't want to take it to just any shop, since neither you nor they will be familiar enough with the L-series engines to easily pick up were the prior assembler left off. Find a good shop that knows Zs and let them get it done. You're going to have to trust them, if they say you need 'such-and-such' you'll need to get it done. And don't be surprised if they want to disassemble and/or re-do some of what has already been done, since the only way they can be sure of their work will be to find out for certain what has already been done. The other option is to bag what has already been done, find a complete and intact motor from another car, rebuild it as necessary and install it. In some respects this is the easier task, as you will be starting from scratch - there will be no question as to what has been done, or what yet needs to be done. But you won't have your original, numbers-matching engine in the car when you are done.

Welcome! Sounds like your car and my red one are in similar condition. If so, you (like myself) are one lucky person.As far as contributing outside of PayPal, send a Private Message to the site owner Mike and he can give you other payment options.

Related note - I installed a new (proper early-style) master cylinder on my red car today. The previous owner had a shop replace the cylinder last spring and they installed the later-style cylinder on it, I wanted to get back to stock. I found that to get the later cylinder to work on an early booster, the shop had to extend the pushrod length as far as it would go, and also readjust the pedal pushrod as well. Both of those changes had to be undone for me to return to the original type of master cylinder.

Go West, young man... http://sacramento.craigslist.org/car/239348426.html http://seattle.craigslist.org/see/car/237134493.html http://seattle.craigslist.org/see/car/239531468.html http://portland.craigslist.org/yam/car/237837860.html http://portland.craigslist.org/yam/car/239856189.html http://salem.craigslist.org/car/238079704.html

Thanks, Jim. Too bad you don't have more batteries for your cell phone...

Stop! If you think the pump lever is not moving, DO NOT CRANK the engine any more until you verify that the bolt on the end of the camshaft is tight! The fuel pump lobe on the cam is simply bolted in place. If that is loose, the pump would not pump. But worse, if it comes all the way loose and falls off inside the timing cover you could experience all sorts of damage. Pull your valve cover and check that before you go any farther.

Not applicable, David. The fuel pump on a '71 is mechanical, not electric.

Who has their heater panel out of the car? I'm getting ready to put the heater control back in the yellow car, but I'm missing one control cable. I plan to make a new one out of an old choke cable, but I need to know the length. The one I need is the one with the loop end that goes to the big flap in the heater box. How long is the cable itself, and how long is the sheath? Can anyone help?

Sorry guys, I disagree. I recall the pictures of the damage, and it's not worth it. Far better to start with a better shell. Keep the original car, so you can salvage any good parts for the next car. Watch for car with as good a body you can find. Maybe something like these: http://seattle.craigslist.org/tac/car/239374472.html http://seattle.craigslist.org/tac/car/239374472.html

How far away do you call "local", Ian. In other words, how far away are you wiling to travel for one? Are you only interested in '72s? No '70, '71 or '73s? What condition are you looking for? Mechanically and body-wise?

Don't know if it makes any difference internally, but ZX distributor I have started life with the E12-92 module. So perhaps the later units are more reliable?