Arne

The '73 rods use stronger 9 mm rod bolts, and as such are the desired rods for L-series stroker engines. Any 240Z rod will work for the strokers, but obviously if you're building a big-horse motor you want the strongest rods. Complete sets go on eBay for $150 and up, generally around $200. If your '73 motor is trash, and assuming you don't want them for a stroker motor yourself, that's probably the place to sell them. Just verify that they truly are the 9 mm bolts first, not the 8 mm bolts.

Update - my car definitely has the wrong cylinder on it, and it is connected wrong also. I'm a bit wary about simply swapping the reservoirs since the outlet ports on the wrong cylinder are distinctly marked with 'F' and 'R'. Looks like I need to add a master cylinder to my list of things to do. Which is too bad, as the wrong one on the car now is apparently brand new.

I'm pretty certain mine is still original. The car still has less than 60,000 miles, and it sure looks right...

In my experience, a bare L24 block is almost valueless. (I should know, I have one too.) Don't bother. The only exception is if it from a '73 and you still have the connecting rods, those are worth more than the block by a long shot.

My red car is nearly original, and it appears to have a stud in the bottom hole.

ZX cylinders have large reservoirs on both, I think the later S30 cylinders only have one large reservoir. The thought of swapping is intriguing, as my new car appears to have the later cylinder on it, without having moved the lines. I'll have to look into that.

OK, if the carb throats are round, you have early round-top carbs with separate floats. If you have square carb throats, you have flat-top carbs, where the float bowls are built into the bottom of the carbs. Either way, you'll need to get to the floats and clean them up.

Sounds like sticky floats. If the car has the earlier '70-72 carbs on it (and many '73s do), the float bowls are separate and mounted on the sides of the carbs. If it still has the original '73 carbs, I'm not familiar with those so I don't know where the float bowls on them are located.

Should work, yes.

Early master cylinders have the front and rear circuits reversed. The later master cylinders can be used on the early cars as long as you re-route the pipes from the master cylinder to the safety switch block to ensure that the front brakes are supplied by the circuit with the larger reservoir.

Altima was probably built here in the states, the Z in Japan. They may not use the stickers in Japan anymore.

I show it as 40343-N3200, but I don't know if it's still current or not.

No, I think it was put on in Japan, but some dealers removed it as part of the dealer prep.

I suspect the handling improvement was more a factor of bigger and better tires, not necessarily from the staggered fitment. But all that matters is that it handles better, and you like it.

Doug, please include a shot showing how stretched the sidewalls look. That size sounds borderline narrow for a 7" wheel to me.

I've been told by a vendor that the Konig-knockoff 'Fast Forward' wheels will fit 240Z hubs if you use Konig caps. This is also what MSA appears to be doing with Fast Forwards, according to their web site. I suppose this is possible, if the center hub area on the FF are thicker than the Konigs. Still checking on this... Edit - Just got off the phone with MSA, where they told me that either Rewinds or Fast Forwards (when used with Konig caps) will fit over the front hubs of any S30 (240/260/280Z) if the dust covers are smashed down flat or removed. Not 100% certain I trust that, but FWIW...

No. While the wiring for an electric pump is in the harness, US spec cars didn't get the second pump until '73.

Here's a shot of the anti-freeze decal, not straight on, but the decal isn't straight either.

I can probably get pictures of the first two this weekend.

My favorite acorn lug nuts are made by McGard, like the locks. Not easy to find, but they guarantee they will never rust, even if you use air tools on them. (Which you should never do, of course.) Probably no more expensive than the Nissan nuts.

Thank you!

Adam, can you please measure (as accurately as possible) the diameter of the center hole for me?

You know, Gary, those numbers would bother me a bit, they seem low when compared to either of my cars. With 10W-30 I get about 40 psi at warm idle, and around 70 psi at 2000-2500 rpm. Of course, that's just on my dash gauge, so who knows how accurate that is.

I'm personally fond of Toyo, and I NEVER buy my tires mail-order. I want a local dealer to take care of any issues.