Arne

Carl Beck saying he knows a little about 240Zs is like Michael Jordan saying he knows a little about playing basketball. Don't miss this opportunity, Dean.

Not for '70-71. The lighter in the early cars is in the console.

After listening to me and the local group (which includes Enrique, beandip, a7dz and others) compare this stuff, my wife swears that no two 240Zs were built the same. LOL

My stock wheels are too narrow for 195/70s, I'd have to go with 185/75-14 instead. I did try one on the car, was frankly unimpressed. The red car just screams for something flashier than the dark gray hubcaps.

Keith, I'm betting from the date of your car and the fact your cylinder is claimed to be for the later 240Zs, you will need to swap the lines when you connect it. But you could try to verify that. If the reservoirs are the same size check to see if there are any indications on the cylinder itself which port is for the front and which is for the rear. Then find the end of the block which has two out-going lines (one to each front brake). Connect that side to the port on your master cylinder marked as 'F' (if any). The half of the block that feeds the rear brakes will only have one line going to the rear, it splits into two lines at the rear of the car.

Which is one big reason my car is in the garage until I get new wheels and tires!!

Of course, the magnetic part won't work on the aluminum valve cover...

If you want to stay close to stock height, the best is 225/60-14, but there's not much left available in that size anymore. 215/60-14 is a bit shorter, but still a decent fit. But I doubt those Michelins are available in that size either.

Astrohog, you must have the same A/C as jmark. (There's a picture of his in the second link.) http://classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=19358 http://classiczcars.com/forums/showpost.php?p=131277&postcount=12

Mike is right, the floats in those are in the bottom of the carb. Removing the dome won't give you access.

The unused fog light wiring in the dash harness is located just behind that indentation on the early cars. So you can imagine what would have been in that spot had factory fog lights been offered...

Considering the amazing originality of my red car, I'll likely still spring for the proper cylinder, rather than swap the reservoirs. for much the same reason as you.

The chokes have two functions. The first half of the throw moves the nozzles down (richens the mixture). The second half opens the throttles a bit for fast idle. I suspect that your choke cables are not adjusted the same - one was on rich mixture-only, and the other was on fast idle.

I was looking to bid on it, but it quickly exceeded what I'm willing to pay right now. (Frequently the case for me on eBay items.) Glad someone here was able to snag it.

The '73 rods use stronger 9 mm rod bolts, and as such are the desired rods for L-series stroker engines. Any 240Z rod will work for the strokers, but obviously if you're building a big-horse motor you want the strongest rods. Complete sets go on eBay for $150 and up, generally around $200. If your '73 motor is trash, and assuming you don't want them for a stroker motor yourself, that's probably the place to sell them. Just verify that they truly are the 9 mm bolts first, not the 8 mm bolts.

Update - my car definitely has the wrong cylinder on it, and it is connected wrong also. I'm a bit wary about simply swapping the reservoirs since the outlet ports on the wrong cylinder are distinctly marked with 'F' and 'R'. Looks like I need to add a master cylinder to my list of things to do. Which is too bad, as the wrong one on the car now is apparently brand new.

I'm pretty certain mine is still original. The car still has less than 60,000 miles, and it sure looks right...

In my experience, a bare L24 block is almost valueless. (I should know, I have one too.) Don't bother. The only exception is if it from a '73 and you still have the connecting rods, those are worth more than the block by a long shot.

My red car is nearly original, and it appears to have a stud in the bottom hole.

ZX cylinders have large reservoirs on both, I think the later S30 cylinders only have one large reservoir. The thought of swapping is intriguing, as my new car appears to have the later cylinder on it, without having moved the lines. I'll have to look into that.

OK, if the carb throats are round, you have early round-top carbs with separate floats. If you have square carb throats, you have flat-top carbs, where the float bowls are built into the bottom of the carbs. Either way, you'll need to get to the floats and clean them up.

Sounds like sticky floats. If the car has the earlier '70-72 carbs on it (and many '73s do), the float bowls are separate and mounted on the sides of the carbs. If it still has the original '73 carbs, I'm not familiar with those so I don't know where the float bowls on them are located.

Should work, yes.

Early master cylinders have the front and rear circuits reversed. The later master cylinders can be used on the early cars as long as you re-route the pipes from the master cylinder to the safety switch block to ensure that the front brakes are supplied by the circuit with the larger reservoir.

Altima was probably built here in the states, the Z in Japan. They may not use the stickers in Japan anymore.