Arne

Sounds like the oil pump shaft is one tooth off. The L28 in my car came equipped with a small vice-grips pliers when I bought it. The only way the previous owners could get the timing close was to remove the lower lock bolt completely and clamp the dizzy in place with the vice-grips. Set the engine at TDC for #1 and pull the dizzy. I'm betting the drive tang will be almost perfectly vertical. Looking from the dizzy end, it should really be just a touch counter-clockwise from vertical. (Call it 11:25 using the clock face as a reference.) If this is the case, you need to drop the pump and shaft, move it one tooth back - clock-wise when looking from underneath.

Hard to say from the small pictures, but they look like Ultra's to me. As I recall it, Enkei may have made that style also. But the Enkei's didn't have a lip on the outside for weights to clip to, and your caps look like Ultra caps as well.Either way, the directional appearance on that style of wheel was for looks only. There was/is no functional fins or other air-moving component to those wheels. It really has no effect on the car or how it drives as to which wheel is where. But if you look at the back sides of the wheels, I think either brand had a recommended side of the car cast in - 'R' or 'L' for the Ultras, the Enkei's might actually have Right and Left cast. Use those as a recommendation, if you prefer the looks of them on the opposite side, go for it. If it were me, I'd swap the right front with the left rear. Or you could swap the left front with the right rear, either way will even things out.

That's too bad. I have bought from Banzai (Mike McGinnis) in the past and was very pleased with the whole deal. I certainly understand that prices change, but to not update the website - well, that's just wrong. If your website is going to list prices, the consumer expects said prices to be accurate.

Assuming you haven't been doing any electrical work, the fusebox should be your first stop.

In that case I see no reason not to convert it, same as I did. Let me know if I can be of assistance.

Been there and done that with 12746. Here's my take on this. Depends on the car, and how close you look. Some of the automatic cars did not come with the clutch pipe/hose support tab spot-welded to the right frame rail. If yours does not have this mount, it will have to be added. My car (12746, 10/70) did not have it. The very similar automatic owned by funz1z (12403, also 10/70) did have it. It's possible that the early automatics did have the tab, and that mine is one of the first that did not. But knowing the other inconsistencies in this kind of thing with these cars, I wouldn't count on that.The other differences are harder to see, but they are there just the same. The engine compartment and dash wiring harnesses are different - the automatics have a few extra wires for the kickdown and starter interlock (neutral safety switch). These wires would not be used if you convert to a manual, but could still be seen if someone looked hard enough, unless you go to the considerable expense and hassles involved in finding and swapping the wiring as well. There is also a bracket for the kickdown switch spot-welded above the throttle pedal on the automatic cars, which again would not be used if you convert. I agree with this with only one reservation - installing a 5 speed in an early car will require you to enlarge the hole in the tunnel for the shift lever. If you don't want to permanently modify the body shell, you may want to stick with a 4 speed.But I do agree totally with the main sentiment - if you want a manual transmission in the car, do it. It's your car, you want to enjoy it. If this is your goal, you'll want to find an early Type 'A' four speed for the car, the same as I did. If you haven't already done so, read through the Tech Article I wrote up on this exact swap - Series 1 240Z auto to 4 speed swap. Also, feel free to contact me for advice as needed. I may even have a spare Type 'A' 4 speed available shortly, if you need it. (Might keep it for a spare, though. Who knows?)In my case, swapping to a manual was a no-brainer - I don't care for automatics, and my car does not have its original engine (not matching numbers). So for me, there was no reason not to swap. But I know other Z owners with automatics who are quite satisfied with their clutchless cars. It's all up to you as the owner. Just remember - it's your car now, so do whatever makes you happiest.

{Imagine the sound of Arne donning his Nomex gear, in preparation for the flames.} You know, as a 240Z owner who has not met - and likely will never meet - any of the principals in the design process of these cars (note that I am trying to be all-inclusive here), threads like this one (and there have been several since I joined here about a year ago) are interesting, reassuring, and yet rather troubling to me. Interesting, because I learn all sorts of little details. Reassuring, because it is obvious that there are many people here who are extremely passionate about these cars, and that bodes well for the future preservation of them. But troubling as well, because there seems to be a serious undercurrent of sniping, back-stabbing and general ill-will to some of these posts. Now I will grant that as a Z owner I am a relative newbie. But (unfortunately) I'm not a young man any more, and my decades of communicating with other humans tells me that even if we all were to talk personally with the principal parties, it is probable that we would all come away with differing opinions. None of us were there, and so none of us will ever know the details, motivations, etc. first hand. So I guess I'd really be happier if everyone would just lighten up a bit. We are all here because we share a passion for these cars. I really don't think it matters to most people 30-40 years later why a certain part was or was not used on a certain car or in a certain market at any one point in time. Yes it matters that we know about the parts, but from this distance in time, the motivations behind it probably aren't important.

Yet try to peel off old window tint film and the grid peels off with it, leaving only the etching...

You know, I wondered about that shortly after I posted that. Thanks for clarifying that, Chris.I'd go back and edit my post, but the server config has apparently been changed recently to prohibit editing old posts.

For those of you not needing to go all the way to 2 1/2" you could use the Dynomax #17-741, which is a 6" round, 19 1/2" long muffler with 2 1/4" inlet and outlet. That's probably what I will use on mine, and I actually have one on my wife's 16v Jetta now. Here's picture of one on a Z from a different thread: http://classiczcars.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=12732&d=1149871912

My thoughts exactly, Gary. Other than the header, my L24 will be bone-stock. I'm pretty sure that 2" will probably be more than fine, as long as it's mandrel bent. If I had to go with non-mandrel (and I won't), 2 1/4" would be better.

Louvers on these and other cars were big when I was growing up and 240Z's were new. But I've never really cared for the looks of them myself, even though I understand their value. How fussy about originality are you? You could always take any later piece of glass and try to remove the defroster grid. It would still be tinted glass, but maybe that would bother you less than the gouges? I've actually got a rear window out of a 280Z hatch with a bad defroster grid that I was planning to get rid of. But shipping it to you would be a major pain.

Thanks for this report. It just confirmed what I had planned anyway, to have my exhaust (when I get to that point) done locally. As simple as a Z exhaust is, a good shop should be able to bend it and install it with my choice of mufflers for the same or less than the MSA system. The better hot rod shops can do mandrel bends and take the time to get it snugged up tight, and I really don't need (or really even want) 2.5" for a stock L24 anyway.

I did the nudge and oil thing on the first one, and it would run for anywhere between 6 and 20 minutes until it stops again. For this latest one, I think I may send it to Mr. Scanlon and let him do it - he may have the touch. (Or maybe it's just that he has better oil than I do.)

I've now got a pair of non-working clocks too. The new one is better looking than my original one, so it is a better candidate for repair.

Hang on, folks. I'm not quite ready to start selling parts yet. But for those who asked about things so far: Kelly - It does have a fairly rough but restorable original steering wheel. Of course, it is the early 240Z thin, wood-composite style. I don't know if it will fit a 280Z. If you're still interested, I'll keep you posted. Ian - The gas cap is not perfect, but decent. It might be better than none at all, but definitely not pristine. Again, if you're still interested, I'll keep you posted. Rich - no radio. Sorry. Jim D. - Choke cables have been modified. Headlight buckets are both damaged.

I brought home a parts car today. It is a later '71, HLS30-27602 built 4/71. It is seriously damaged, but still has a fair number of useable parts, some that will go on my car, some I'll keep as spares, and some I'll sell. The poor thing is basically totalled. It had a touch of rust under the battery box when the prior owner's son spun it through the weeds and slid into a telephone pole between 2 and 3 years ago. No body panels are undamaged, and the driver's frame rail is collapsed. So the bodyshell is trash. The engine is supposed to have been in great shape prior to the accident, but the fan was pushed into the radiator and so it hasn't been started in close to 3 years, and I have no easy way to confirm its condition. Until I have a chance to look into it in depth, I have to consider it to be a core. Besides the engine, it has an early Type A 4 speed that I could keep as a spare, or sell. The engine has a decent looking 6-into-2 header. The rear differenial is the one I want (3.36:1 to match my 4 speed). The console is darn nice. Rear glass is good, with the proper vertical defroster grid (that is said to work) and professionally tinted. The turn signal switch seems good. Nice gauges (although the clock appears to not work). The front bumper bar MIGHT be salvagable. I'm told the springs and shocks are all Tokico, and fairly fresh. Dash is about the same as mine, one small crack in the center. A slightly scruffy set of 14" six spoke ZX alloys, and decent looking 4 screw carbs. Other miscellaneous parts too, of course. So guess what I'll be doing tomorrow?

Another thought for a 240Z is a defective alternator diode. If it fails, there is a pretty serious draw on the battery. That can be checked out by most anyplace that repairs electrical systems, as well as many parts places.

I did convert mine from auto to 4 speed, but most of my 240Z friends have automatics. So personal preference is a big part of it. But as noted, many people who are interested in this type of car (myself included) prefer manual transmissions. Not that there is anything inherently bad about an automatic for normal street driving, but many of us simply prefer to shift for ourselves. As to the why some of us folks who prefer manuals buy automatics and then convert them, rather than to simply buy a manual to begin with - the answer there is simply supply and condition. (Maybe a bit of price, too.) When shopping for a decent Z (240s especially), the supply is small enough that you want to look at all examples, whether they are exactly what you want or not. Also, many people (again including myself) have found that automatic-equipped cars tend to be in a bit better overall condition that the manual transmission cars, and sometimes they are a bit cheaper than the manuals as well.

Yeah, I'm thinking a pressure plate/release bearing collar mis-match is a good possibility. It's that, or badly mis-adjusted. Not going to be a bleeding problem, if there was air in the line the clutch would grip too well, not slip.

If I recall correctly, all the experiences with the US outfit posted here are a couple years old. It is possible that their quality has improved in that time, but the only way to know is for someone to give them another try.

This was an original intake seat, right? So it was a bronze seat that probably was mostly worn out. As it got thinner I suspect that it finally got too thin to take the abuse and pounded itself loose.

Cheaper isn't always better. I have to re-learn this every now and then. Courtesy's prices on factory Nissan parts are competitive, in the cases I have checked.

I order from both MSA and Black Dragon (formerly Victoria British). But I learned long ago with the MG restoration that a.) you couldn't get any reliable info from the phone people at Victoria British, and b.) if it was a part that I considered critical or if strict originality was important, I bought from Moss or The Roadster Factory instead. (I loved the people at TRF, and would happily pay a bit extra to buy from them, as I knew it would be right.) Today I do much the same, ordering the more important stuff from Courtesy or MSA.

Reminds me (as many things about the late '60's Japanese cars do) of a typical English car. Why would the heater be optional in England, of all places?