Arne

You know, I've tried to get my car registered on Carl's registry several different times since I bought it last September. Nothing ever happens. Similarly I've tried several times to join the IZCC, and that never works either. So if you are able to get your car registered, let me know how you did it.

I'm not comfortable dealing with someone who hides their feedback. Plus I recall someone here that got one of his heads not long ago that was a mess. I'll have to do a search. Short version - I don't think I'm comfortable with one from ur-gellis. Edit - There are several threads here about ur-gelis, most of them are not complimentary. At least one person here got a bad head from him. Look at: http://classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=20597 http://classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=20714

Well, I haven't quite given up on having it done locally. If I could find someone who sounds like they know what they are doing, and could do it for $300 or so, I'd be happy. Because it's not that big a deal, really. My E88 already has steel seats, so all I need is guides replaced, the t-stat opening welded and surfaced, and a good valve job. I think it's likely that my head is not warped, as the cam spins freely when the head is on the bench. So how difficult can it be?

No, the five-angle seats and Extrudehone is not just marketing, it does make a difference - that's why racers have it done. But it's not necessary for the type of engine I'm planning. References are exactly what I have been fishing for. But it appears no one on this board has bought one. I may be the first. But it won't be for a while - the heads have a 90 day warranty, so I won't buy one until I've got the bottom end done and ready to put in the car. Don't want the warranty to run out while I'm still finishing the engine.

Parts car.

Sure, whatever you say. You're crazy! LOL

MSA has the center linkage brand new for $32.15. Others may have it a couple buck cheaper, but this is easy to find. http://www.thezstore.com/store/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=11-3003&Category_Code=PFFC01

Originality isn't an issue in my case, my car's original engine was gone long before I bought it. But even so, there are no serial numbers on a head, so as long as the casting number is the same, I don't see how anyone could ever tell. The reason I'm looking for non-local options is to find someone who is familiar with the Datsun heads. I'd prefer not to have some guy who does small block Chevy heads all day learn on my head. And the Z specialist shops that do great work are geared to performance jobs, not to stock daily driver jobs. Therefore their prices are performance-rated as well. Not that I'm complaining about the price for the job they do, but they do a whole lot more than I need, or need to pay for. When they start talking about things like five-angle seats and such - that's great, if you need that. I don't. So that was why I started considering MSA, as a cost effective place where - presumably - they know what they are doing with an L-series head.

More details - I called MSA back today to confirm the price and ask a few more questions. First, they again quoted me a price of $449.95 exchange, which is a bit less than the machine work alone here locally, let alone including parts. (I got the phone rep's name this time, in case I do this and the price goes up.) It would have all new guides, and steel seats added for the intake valves. Valves and springs would be replaced as needed. Any damage to water passages would be repaired. The cam would be a regrind and the rocker arms would be refaced, not new. (No surprise considering the price.) The cam would be externally oiled, but it sounds like it probably would not come with an oil rail, I'd either need to use my existing one, or (more likely) buy a new one. It has a 90 day warranty. Since there have been a fair number of views but no replies, I'm guessing no one has bought one of these from MSA, and if I do so I'll be the pioneer. I'm still a bit wary because of the price, but it is tempting.

My car had an electric fan on it when I got it, probably because the person who installed the ZX L28 in mine discovered at the last minute that the ZX fan and clutch wouldn't fit. I'm going to a 3 row core with the stock clutch/fan on mine, mostly because I don't like the cluttered look of all the extra wiring of the electric fan. But I live in a mild climate, so my demands aren't going to be too great. But on the other hand, electric fans are probably more efficient, if you don't mind the extra wiring and electrical demand. But they do pull a lot of amps, and the stock 240Z charging system doesn't have a lot to spare.

Update - I need to confirm that price from MSA. I talked to them on the phone today, and when I asked the price (since I didn't have my catalog at work), I could have sworn he told me $449 exchange. Now that I am home, I see that catalog says $559.95 exchange. Gotta call back, I guess.

For resale, I'd skip the stripes. While many like them, many do not and so stripes might seriously reduce the size of the potential pool of buyers.

A quick update - now that the initial rush on these adapters seems to have abated, the 'manufacturer' may not always keep parts in stock on the shelf. That doesn't mean they won't be available, but the delivery time may be a bit longer than it was when the orders were coming in quantity. So if you haven't got your order in yet, it may take a bit longer than what it did earlier to get it to you.

Been doing some shopping around for head machine work, and I've found the prices are much higher than I had figured on for a simple stock E88 rebuild. I'm not looking for a performance-built head, just good quality work. I've got quotes of $600 to $900 for what I need to have done. Which is to have the head lightly surfaced, new guides installed, the t-stat housing opening welded and surfaced, a couple of new valves, maybe new springs and the normal valve grinding and lapping. No port work, pretty basic stuff. So here's the dilemma - MSA will sell me a rebuilt E88 for about $450 exchange. They guarantee that it will not have been milled too far, will have steel intake seats, all new guides, springs and valves as required, and all water passages will be good or repaired. The cam will be a re-grind, which doesn't excite me, but I can probably work around that. So has anyone bought one of their rebuilt heads? Any reviews? Are they good enough for a stock daily driver-type engine?

Wow, ZaK! Looks great! Would you like to do mine, too?

Current price on MSA's website (which is more current than their catalog) is $234.95 for the 3 row #16-7001, which ships at the 30 pound rate. So add $18-30 shipping, depending on where you live. But call your local radiator shops first, though. I found a local radiator shop who can sell me a 3 row for a 240Z for $212 and no shipping. Plus he'll test it for leaks before I pick it up at no extra charge, and it has a much better warranty than from MSA.

Later Z and ZX radiators will fit, but they are deeper and hang down below the front valance a couple of inches. The sump and crossmember are lower still, but it would still be easier to damage than a regular 240Z unit. I have a ZX radiator in my 240Z (installed with an L28 by a previous owner), but don't like how it looks hanging down there and will be swapping back to a radiator designed for the 240Z later this summer. The original 240Z radiator was only a 2 row core unit, but three row core units are fairly easy to find, and even four row are available if you need that much. For maximum cooling, aluminum radiators that fit properly are also available. My needs aren't too great (mild climate and mostly stock L24), so I will go with a three row core radiator in mine.

I'm always afraid of cars with brand new paint - always wonder what's underneath. I'd want to have it thoroughly inspected for rust...

And I had my driver's window out yesterday, it was very easy and nothing to be afraid of.

Actually, I think that for a non-stock Z a good bright yellow (not either of the stock yellows) might not be a bad choice. These days many performance cars are coming in bright yellow. Ask Gary (beandip) to post a picture of his 240Z. His is very bright, I think it's a late-model Mustang color, or something like that.

The distributor and electronic ignition is good to have, I have that system on my '71. Plus many people prefer the 5 speeds from these over the earlier units from the 280Z. The engine is a typical L28 with dished pistons and a round port head. Not bad, but nothing special. Not sure which diff that would have come with - R180 or R200.

My factory service manual shows a three angle seat cut as standard for the '70-71 L24. That (plus other things I have read) leads me to believe that ALL L-series heads used three angle seats.

When I was doing the wiring replacement on mine, I found that there were lots of changes starting in 1/71, so any comparisons to mine aren't necessarily valid. FYI - When looking for a replacement harness I found that the harnesses seemed to change every few months of production. Your best bet is to hunt down someone with a similar 2/71 car who might be able to look at their wiring.

If you don't have a web site of your own, you can upload them to the site directly. You can add them to your gallery, or directly to a post. To attach them in a post, open the big post window and scroll down a bit to find the 'Manage attachments' button. Follow the instructions there.

Sure wish I had the hatch off the yellow one for my yellow '71. Anyway - Welcome! Where abouts in the US do you live?