Arne

The lighting relays cause a change - the ammeter only sees the charge, not the load. So when the lights are on, the ammeter shows well to the plus side. But the actual changes to the wiring to use the internally regulated alternator are simply to install two jumpers (one w/diode) to complete the regulator wiring circuits. Doesn't affect the current flow in any way.

Here's a quick and dirty test then, Jim. With the engine running, note the ammeter position and then turn on the headlights. If everything is working properly, the ammeter should swing to the plus side. Probably close to 15 amps. If it doesn't move to the plus side, there is something wrong with the charging system - either the alternator or the internal regulator.

Spent a couple of hours inventorying and organizing my 240Z spare and removed original parts. No wonder my garage is so cluttered! :stupid:

I really liked the thought behind this thread, so I wanted to revive it. Full set of six stock diameter exhaust valves for L24, '70-73. Brand new, bought for a previous car and never used, and don't now expect to ever use them. Will let them go for $10 total, to cover shipping and hassling with getting to the Post Office. No PayPal, please. USA only.

I beg to differ, guys. The ammeter is not removed from the circuit when you upgrade to a later internally-regulated alternator. My ammeter works fine with the 60 amp '83 ZX alternator w/diode adapter. The alternator upgrade had no effect on the ammeter function at all. In fact, watching the ammeter made it obvious that the later alternator/regulator was much quicker to respond to load changes - the ammeter doesn't jump around when the load is stable.My ammeter does show a constant positive charge when the lights are on, but that is because of the headlight and parking light relays I have installed, not because of the alternator change. The relays move the lighting draw or load off the normal circuit, instead drawing directly from the battery. The ammeter can't see the draw from the lights, but does see the increased output from the alternator to match the draw. Indeed, there is no easy way to remove the ammeter from the circuit at all. All fused power passes through the ammeter before it it is switched or goes to the fusebox. If your electrical devices work (clock, lights, horn. etc.), the ammeter is still in the circuit. So why is there no charge being shown? I'm guessing it's because there is no charge. As a rough guess - since you did get a modest charge showing with the original regulator in the circuit, I suspect the internal regulator in the ZX alternator may be faulty.

The Parts list shows the change from plastic to metal was in July '71. Plastic -> 6/71, metal 7/71 ->. My 7/71 (built late in July) has metal.FWIW - I have replaced all of the vent hoses and the filler tube. While it's way better than it was when I bought the car, there is still a bit of fuel smell in the car after a while (24+ hours) if I leave it closed up (both windows closed). For a car where you are not concerned with strict originality, by-passing the expansion tank would probably be a good thing.

Mine works as intended, but it should as it has never been monkeyed with. It will reduce popping in the initial off-throttle condition, but I found it to be annoying to have the RPM hang there between shifts and such, and so I backed off the adjustment nut to disable it. It still works normally, but doesn't quite touch the throttle linkage.

I have personally seen this issue (sucking air) from loose hose connections on 2 different 240Zs, and have even seen it where there were no wet spots or other external indications. Start by tightening/checking all connections. If that doesn't help, then look into the pickup tube.

Any changes to the alternator? The ignition problem sounds like a bad diode.

Mine are still original. But I have seen a car with foam and covers both from Classic Datsun Motorsport, and they were absolutely first rate. If/when I do mine, that's where I would/will get them.

The "280Z on Enkei(?)" wheels aren't Enkeis. They look like Gotti replicas as built by either American Racing or Ultra. Enkei never made that style.

3.36 was standard in 4 speed 240Zs, the 3.54 was for automatics. The 3.54 became standard with 280Z manual transmissions, IIRC.

I have done the rears on Zs this way many times in my prior career. Loosen - but do not remove - the three nuts at the top of the strut tower, and also the center shaft nut.Jack up the car and support on jackstands. Let the wheels hang free. Remove wheel.Disconnect and plug the brake hose at the chassis end. Unbolt the halfshaft from the stub axle flange, disconnect the parking brake cable. If you have one, disconnect the rear sway bar.Now remove the three upper strut tower nuts. Pry the strut straight down and out of the strut tower, then down a bit farther and pivot it outside the wheel opening. Be careful not to scratch the fender lip when you bring it out.Now the strut is out in the open. Compress the spring, remove the center shaft nut, replace the upper mount.Reassembly is the reverse. Be sure to orient the three upper studs correctly before getting the strut back into the tower, and again, be careful about the fender lip. Don't forget to bleed the brakes.

I'd fix it. And you shouldn't have to remove the spindle pin to change the upper strut mount. It can be done while leaving the spindle pin in place.

PM sent.

Marty, I think I may still have a working Series 1 oil gauge. I'll need to dig into the spare parts box to be certain. Will send you a PM if I find one.

If they are '71, yes. Parts book shows '70-73 all the same on both front cross member and rear control arms.

Mine is longer (14"), but is the really small oval case (3.5" x 7"). But it might not be just Magnaflows. I know of one person with the full MSA Premium system (stock manifold) with Dynomax who has a similar sound. He went so far as to pull the head to look for carbon deposits and hot spots.

I've got good speakers (w/sub), but maybe not enough separation to tell that it was duals for certain. Sounds like we might have the same noise. Yes, I have resonated tips, and I even removed them temporarily to see if that made any difference. It was louder w/o the tips, but the "cackle" (as you call it) was still there. I wonder if this is characteristic of the Magnaflows?

Should be similar, but probably louder with the headers and 2.5" all the way back.For a 280Z you have a bigger selection of Magnaflows for the rear. The 11148 I used was the only one that was suitable for the dual-stacked tips I wanted. Since the stacked look doesn't work well on a 280, you have more choices. Don't lock in on only the 11148.

That type of exhaust note is typical of inline six engines with straight-through glass- or wool-packed mufflers such as the Magnaflows that Steve and I are using, or traditional glasspacks. The note from this type of muffler is noticeably different than the harsher, more gutteral note from the common "turbo-type" mufflers (Dynomax, et al). Nothing wrong with either type, just different.The pitch and volume will vary depending on the size and number of mufflers used, as well as (especially?) the pipe diameter. My car actually had this note in a moderately quiet form when I bought it. At that time it had the stock manifold and downpipe, small 1.75" tube with a single 2" ID x 24" long glasspack on the tunnel. It had a nice sound, but was actually rather quiet. My replacement (construction detailed in this thread) has the stock manifold, MSA Premium Exhaust downpipe, one 2.25" x 22" glasspack in the tunnel, a Magnaflow 11148 muffler at the rear, dual Hedman resonated tips, and a mix of 2.25" and 2.5" tubing. Even with more mufflers than the previous small-tube system, my car is noticeably louder now than it was before. And I like that just fine! Not really, Steve. I remembered going in what your system was, but overall the note as heard in the video is much like mine, perhaps just a touch louder.I do note that mine has a bit of a "ringing" sound to it, but only under load. Almost sounds like the engine is pinging, but not quite. More like the sound you get from some headers. Definitely seems to come from the rear of the car (where the Magnaflow lives). Doesn't really affect my enjoyment of the sound, but if I could eliminate it, I would.

Your wheel position looks a bit extreme compared to the only picture of my car I have directly from the side like that. But the stock TC rods are not adjustable. If yours are, they are aftermarket performance parts, and the PO may have adjusted them for additional caster.

Great sound, Steve. Thanks for turning off the radio part way through so we could hear it better. Sounds similar to my car now with the Magnaflow on it. I drive with the window down all the time so I can hear it better, rain or shine. Gonna miss that inline-6 music someday....

I can't see the carb inlets - do you have air horns or trumpets on them? SUs depend on smooth airflow for accurate metering. If there is inlet turbulence due to the lack of air horns, it can play all sorts of havoc with the mixture under some conditions.

Brake squeal is high-frequency pad vibration. I'd replace not only the shims, but also the retainer pins and tension spring. Look for a "front brake hardware kit", such as this: http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/SBC04/24-5301