Arne

It would be self-contained within my adapter. If you are doing this swap on your own without the adapter, there have been lots of posts here in the forums about how to wire it up. I'm not going to go through it all again here in yet another thread.

Did that already this month.http://classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=19768&highlight=konig+panasport

BTW, anyone have a source for the smaller set screw that the earliest choke knobs use? I'm in need of one.

Haven't got into that one yet, but will hopefully look into it this coming Spring. I'll keep you all posted on it.

Ahhh. I love the wheels, but have never personally cared for the no-center-cap look. I wish my car was closer to the end, I'd grab this set. But there is SO much that I need far worse right now.

Can I assume that true watenabes have no centercaps?

Glass pack muffler.

New shift knob (OE wood with proper 4 speed pattern), brand new 70-71 choke knob, plug wire separators, and a repro owner's manual. Do tools count? Metric tap and die set (rusty threads, you know), and a new Uni-syn (got rid my original one after I sold the MG many years ago).

Looks like 4 or 5 interested so far. I'll try to firm up the price this week.

I understand, Garth, no offense taken. My original idea was to offer this part for people who might not be comfortable doing their own wiring. Additionally, I wanted to offer this part to people who may not want to trash their existing voltage regulator, and who may not have local yards with old Datsuns in them to pull old VR's from (like my area). Lastly, I've heard that in some less-urban areas, the proper diode can be hard to find locally. So these adapters would address all those issues. That said, I had been shooting for a target price of around $15 plus a couple or three bucks for shipping. Unfortunately, several weeks of searching has shown that suppliers for the OE connectors and terminals are hard to find, and once found the prices for small batch orders are significantly higher than I had hoped. So that is why I opened this thread - at the price I'd have to sell them at, I'm not sure there is a market. I'm still working to get the price down, but don't know if I can shave much off.

Edit: It's on! See the end of this thread! OK, I think I have just about got it nailed. How many of you would be interested in a plug and play wiring adapter for the 280ZX alternator upgrade on a 240Z? This would be a totally self-contained unit that would simply plug into the factory wiring harness in place of the stock voltage regulator. It would come completely wired (with the proper diode), weatherproofed and tested. No modifications to your car's wiring would be needed, so if you ever wanted to revert to stock you'd just unplug the adapter and reinstall the stock regulator. Pictures of the prototype are below. The production version may have a white plastic connector rather than the black of the prototype, and the wiring bundle would be smaller and neater (in theory, anyway). At this point, it looks like the cost would be between $25-30 each, including shipping within the US. I'd need at least 5 or 6 interested parties to put this together.

Small breaks can be repaired, but if large amounts are missing (such as when window tint is removed) it won't do the job. I think the repair paint just restores continuity, it doesn't get warm like the original grid does.

Mine appears to be brushed on too, not just the rad support, but inside under the kick panels as well. Seems to me the Trumble book mentioned that they brushed it on.

Thanks, Carl. That pretty much confirms what I had heard. I think the Stage I will be just about exactly what I am after.

My yellow '71 has the black rad support. Don't know about others.

Yes, I've seen other complaints on this as well. The caps aren't deep enough to clear the 240Z hubs and dust covers. Some people simply leave the caps off, or you could put a 1/4" spacer behind the wheel. Or I suppose you could convert to 280Z hubs and rotors, but that seems excessive to me.

From a thread last month: http://classiczcars.com/forums/showpost.php?p=152316&postcount=13

Kits to do that used to be stocked at many parts houses - places like AutoZone, Pep Boys, etc. It was a copper impregnated paint, that you brushed on to bridge bad spots.

Actually, I have a set already on order from Carl as well. I'm pretty sure that they are what I want, just looking for more data on them.

How much better were the Stage I or 'Euro' springs?

My car is a lower number than yours (12746 vs. 14160) built in 10/70. Mine is considered an early '71, and I suspect your is the same. The letters on mine are silver....

If it's supposed to be shiney chrome, here's an idea from a different thread. I'm going to look into this for my heater panel. http://classiczcars.com/forums/showpost.php?p=156238&postcount=4

As a stopgap, you could stick one of those self-adhesive rubber feet that come with some electronic items on the inside of the door where the plunger hits. That should be enough to turn off the light. I can't think of any non-destructive way to un-warp the door. Luckily, mine is fairly straight. The Datsun 240Z lettering on mine is not chrome, but more of a matte finish silver. I suspect that has faded or worn off of yours.

I actually looked into that option. Unfortunately, those companies (and other similar ones) are geared up more for custom harnesses for hot rods and muscle cars. They don't have the OE Datsun terminals and connectors on the shelf, and since they don't have templates for our cars, they'd need a good harness to copy from. Not a very feasible option for my needs, I'm afraid.

Nope, not stock at all, so who knows what it might be. You'll just have to trace the wires to their end to find out.