Arne

No choke light on a fuel injected 280Z. (Indeed, no choke at all.) But as to what they actually are, I'll need to leave that to people who know 280Zs...

I do use a Mac with the CD, and it is quite simple. First, it works best opened directly in Adobe Reader, not Preview or any browser. You don't need the INDEX.TXT file, just the PDFs. Make a folder somewhere in your Documents folder and copy the PDFs into it as shown. Open the Package by opening S30_1a.pdf in Adobe Reader. You can make an alias to the file if you wish.

So what were the numbers?

I'm down in the Eugene-area, maybe not as damp as Seattle, but close. I drive my 240Z 2-3 times per week, year-around, rain or shine. Other 240Z owners may cringe, but during the wet months my car sees a lot of rain. I do garage the car at night. I've done this for almost 5 years now. 240Zs are even more rust-prone than 280Zs. My take is that for the Northwest (where we don't use road salt in the winter), if the car isn't rusting now, if you keep it clean and give it a chance to dry overnight, you should be OK. Carport isn't as good as a real garage, but it'll be better than nothing.

Could be...

Turned over 74k miles today. Drove 288 miles through the Oregon Cascades with two other Zs. Some great roads and great scenery!

Not unless someone nearby has better video equipment than I do. I tried with my laptop, the audio was worthless.

That's awesome, Mike! I didn't know there were any shops that would re-machine vintage wheels. I agree that trying to make them look really good by sanding and polishing is difficult, at best. I'm impressed.

The fake rivits in your Westerns might not come off, but I know of people who have removed and replaced them on the AmRaces. They are splined, and can be driven in and out.

I can't say for certain. Like you, I've never been able to find it mentioned anywhere. I suspect it is more similar to the one at the voltage regulator, not the one on the distributor. The one at the coil caused me serious problems when I was trying to get my Pertronix to work. I have removed it totally now, in part because I don't know for certain which coil terminal (+ or -) to connect it to. And with today's modern suppression wires, plugs, etc., it's not at all needed.

Probably not. Chinese does not necessarily mean bad when talking wheels. Most aftermarket wheels these days are made in China - even some big name, high dollar wheels like OZ, TSW, etc. No way to be certain without inspecting both side by side, but as a guess I'd say those two are pretty equal.

Thanks Rob. I knew that, but failed to recall it at the proper time.

Hope you told him that. Some people need educated...

Yes, after seeing the back side, I'm confident those are AmRace/Moderns. I can't recall what "AHI" stands for, but most all AmRace wheels have it. FWIW, that basic style was made by many companies. It was first seen as the Enkei Type 26, a true 3-piece wheel. Numerous companies made one- and two-piece copies. AmRace, Western, Ultra, Prime and Eagle come immediately to mind, but I'm sure there were others as well. Also, 235/60-14 will be a bit pinched on a 14x6. I'd normally recommend 185-225 as ideal for a 6" rim.

G/W is green/white-trace, B/W is black/white-trace. (Blue is L in Nissan-wiring-speak.) Pictures are tough to decipher as well, as they generally don't show wires well. I could try to get a picture of my '71, but it's no longer totally stock, has extra wires for the Pertronix EI. If your car was originally a manual transmission car, there should be four wires in the general area of the coil. One G/W, one Black, and two B/W. I don't know the gauge of these wires, but it's not different than any of the other wires on the car. Same as that of the headlights, for example. The resistor should have the G/W at one end, and a B/W at the other. Doesn't really matter if you swap ends, still works the same. The coil needs the other B/W to the positive terminal and the solid Black (which should run directly to the distributor) at the negative terminal. If you have a condenser mounted near the coil, don't connect it at all at this time. If connected wrong they can mess up troubleshooting, and it's only there for radio suppression and not really necessary. (I've removed mine totally.) To tell the two B/Ws apart, leave them both disconnected for a test. With the ignition off, both should have 0 volts. Turn the ignition switch to the Run position and test both. One should have close to battery voltage (~12 volts), the other should still be zero. The one that got power in the Run position should connect to the resistor, the other to the coil.

I disagree. American made that style as well, I sold piles of them (labeled as Moderns) back in the '80s. And neither the luster of the clear coat nor the approvals label pictured in the drop center of the wheel look right for a Western.

Modern is a private label of American Racing. Same wheels, different caps. AR caps will fit.

Central meeting and departure place will be the Southbound Santiam Rest Area on I-5. We will be leaving the rest area at 9:30 sharp, so try to arrive there around 9:00-9:15. For you "Northies", if we're going to leave the Santiam stop at 9:30 sharp, any that want to meet up should plan to be at the Baldock Rest Area by 8:15 so we can leave there at 8:30. That will give us a little leeway in case of traffic (never know about I-5). We will take Hwy 20 through Lebanon and Sweet Home. First short stretch break (15 minutes max) at Cascadia State Park on Hwy 20. At the junction of 20 and 126, we'll bear back South to the second short break at Sahalie Falls viewpoint on 126. After looking at the falls, we'll continue on 126 to the West end of Historic Hwy 242, and will cruise on 242 to the Dee Wright Observatory at the summit, where there will be another break for scenery and gawking (assuming clear weather). Then a short leg into Sisters, where we can picnic at the Sisters Park on the East end of town. Picnic lunch of some sort is highly recommended. While there are several restaurants in Sisters, if the weather is nice they will be swamped. You have been warned. Bear in mind - while 242 has been repaved and "improved" over the past 3 years, it is still a VERY narrow road, originally designed for Model Ts. Narrow, winding hairpins, no passing opportunities, steep drop-offs & cliffs, no real shoulders and few guardrails. It is emphatically NOT a road to try to race around on. This segment will be a slower, scenic cruise, not a fast slalom. The planned route ends at Sisters. From there, everyone can pick their own route back home. I'll be taking 126 back to Springfield, northerners can take Hwy 20 back to Albany, Hwy 22 to Salem, or even hit Hwy 97 (about 20 miles to Redmond) to go back via Hwy 26. Oh yeah. Several stations at Sisters for fuel for the return trip

Saturday, August 27th 10am to 3pm Forged Performance, Troutdale, OR Awards for Best Early Z (1970-78) Best 280XZ Best 300ZX Best 350/370Z Best Other Datsun Best of Show Admission is Free Registration is only $15 per car Free BBQ for all attendees ALSO- Special Forged Performance DYNO DEAL - 3 Pulls on the Dyno for $40! Vendors' booths - paint-less dent removal, glass repair, and "The Tire Factory". Possibly a local area pin striper, "Spider Man". Directions Link: http://maps.google.com/maps?q=867+Northwest+Corporate+Drive,+Troutdale,+OR&hl=en&sll=37.0625,-95.677068&sspn=52.107327,106.523437&t=h&z=16 Contact info

Correct.

Last time I was looking, it seemed like non-synthetic GL-4 was tough to find. Fewer and fewer new cars use it anymore. Synthetics were a lot easier, for some reason. Numerous places had that on the shelf.

Zero offset is a good target, but the +4 of the Rotas should work as well. After all, +4 is about 1/6". Not a big deal.

I run Redline MT-90 in mine.

Both brands are what I would call "commodity" wheels. Mass-produced in China, gravity-cast, built primarily for style, not strength or weight. They are relatively light more by accident of design, not by intent. They are adequate for normal street use, but I don't think I'd be comfortable using a gravity-cast wheel on the track.

No, I don't recall any opinions other than looks. I doubt there's anyone here who has used both on a Z. For normal driving, I doubt you could tell one from the other by feel or performance.