Arne

I missed out on the Pinto, had a Vega instead. In fact, I bought a second Vega after I got out of high school. Being a bit of a gear head even at the age of 18, the second one was a Cosworth Twin Cam Vega, #0853 of about 3500. I wonder where it is now? For those of you who may not have heard of these critters, the Cossie had an aluminum 16 valve twin cam head designed and built by Cosworth in England on top of a de-stroked 2 liter version of the Vega's aluminum block. (Cosworth had come up with the idea to use the Chevy block as a basis for a light, bullet-proof and affordable Formula engine.) So clear back in 1975 Chevy was selling cars with twin cams, 4 valves per cylinder, electronic port injection, stainles tube headers and pumpless air injection for emissions control. Of course, they couldn't make money on it, so it died after 2 years. http://www.cosworthvega.com/ http://www.cosworthvega.com/unique_features.html

You know, when I posted those links, I could have sworn that the Aviator satin was available as a three point, but now all I see are lap belts. The three point belts are all chrome. :mad:

OK, so it looks like I should be OK with the early small booster that is now on the car, even when I add the clutch hydraulics. Thanks, Dave!

Ack! Is it possible that the automatic cars used a bigger booster? Do I need to add a smaller booster to the list of parts I need for my upcoming 4 speed swap?

Don't pull that dash harness for me at this time, I've got another idea cooking. Details later.

Ooh! Goody! I was wondering what the dates for that were going to be next year. I don't know if I'm going to have my car ready to be seen by then, but I'll be there one way or another.

Thanks for thinking of me, Enrique. Yes, I do need the dash harness assembly from a car of this vintage, but only if it is in really good shape and from an automatic. See the latest on my harness story at the end of my other thread.http://classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=19793&page=2

Here's the latest I've learned on the dash harness deal. While the two dash harness pieces are separate, and have individual part numbers, Nissan apparently never offered the two parts separately, but sold them as an assembly under a single part number. Apparently, all three major wiring harness parts (engine, dash and rear) were different on the automatic cars. It is not known whether any of the manual transmission harnesses could be successfully connected to any of the automatic pieces. It is therefore probably best for me to either find the correct automatic dash harness assembly, or to consider changing all three sections to matching manual transmission parts. Edit: Further checking reveals that only the engine and dash harnesses are transmission specific. The rear harness is the same for either transmission. So I might be able to do it with just the dash and engine harnesses from a manual transmission car. The two dash harness parts I have (24013-E4705 & 06) were apparently listed by Nissan as an assembly under 24013-E4703, listed as "ASSY-HARNESS INSTRUMENT" for automatics between 10/70 and 12/70 inclusive. This is not encouraging to me, as I fear that there won't be many possible donors (automatics in a very short 3 month period). Just in case, I called my local dealer, and the automatic harness assembly part number is no longer in their computer, and it is not listed as superseded. The matching manual transmission dash harness assembly (24013-E4702) is still a good number, but it is NLA from Nissan. So it looks like I have two options - 1.) try to find the proper (but possibly rather rare) original automatic dash harness assembly, or 2.) bite the bullet and swap the whole works to a similar manual transmission harness. Number 2 is probably the more likely option, I'm guessing.

Got under the dash this afternoon (once the ice melted - damn freezing rain), and was finally able to find the part numbers on the two dash harnesses. They are 24013-E4705 & E4706. I suspect that these two are the ones with the extra wiring for the automatic transmission (which my car still has for now). What I'd like to find out is whether there is a manual transmission equivalent to these two parts that I could use instead, since I will end up swapping in a 4 speed next Spring. Since I don't yet have the parts CD (I will buy it after the holidays, I promise), could someone who already has it look up the dash harness numbers for a 10/70 build date car, both auto and manual for me? I'm betting the auto harnesses will be the E4705 & 06, and that the manual may be E4650 & 51. If it is serial number specific, my car is #12746.

OK, once the ice thawed enough to allow me to move the car today (damn freezing rain), I took the lower steering column cover off to look at the wiring. Unfortunately, my car (also 10/70) does not appear to have the same color wiring as yours. Specifically, I did not see a black wire on the turn signal side. The red wire from the combo switch is connected to a red wire on the turn signal switch. Since I couldn't reconcile this with your situation, I took a picture of it instead.

Too late, I already have one. You're right, even though I don't expect superb sound quality in my cars, the sound quality of the modulator is not all that great. But worse to me is that the modulator (an early iTrip) is not user friendly - rather difficult to use, actually.

Same as any light. Start at the bulbs and work backwards. Test the bulbs themselves, check to see if you have power getting to the socket, and check the ground for rust and corrosion. If everything looks and tests good at the light itself, start moving farther back up the circuit testing as you go. Side note - the Datsun sidemarkers only work with the parking lights, they did not flash with the turnsignals.

No, a 260Z should have been titled as a '74. 280Z's started in '75. Also, while both the 240Z and the 280Z VINs started with 'HLS30' the 260Z VINs started with 'RLS30' instead. I've also seen charts that claim that all cars with VINs over 200000 were 280Zs. So it sounds to me as if your car started life as a 280Z. Of course, what is in it now is anybody's guess.

Cool, but since the plan for my car is to look mostly stock but with period correct accessories, and since I don't have the factory radio, Turnswitch's service to add modern FM isn't quite right for me. This is what I actually have in mind...

There are people who don't care about driving, mere possession is satisfaction enough. That doesn't describe me, or many others on this board either.

I don't think replacement tanks are available. The hoses are available from the usual suspects. MSA's current catalog has a nice diagram of the whole system on page 103.

My thought is to find (eBay, probably) some old vintage aftermarket stereo for mine. Something like an original Pioneer Supertuner, old Clarion, or something similarly vintage. I'll mount a pair of modern speakers in the stock locations (not ideal for sound, but so what). Then I may hide a small low power external amp that has aux. input capability for my iPod. Edit: Here's one, not a name brand, but certainly the proper vintage look. I can get this brand new in the box for cheap.

In my opinion - no. It's possible, but I don't think it likely that the nozzles and needles are your problem. If the mixture is too rich with the adjuster screws all the way up, there is probably something else wrong. The main causes could be:The float level is too high The nozzles are sticking (i.e. - as if the choke was stuck on) The nozzles are badly worn (needle orofices) The needles are badly worn The needles are wrong The needles are very badly adjusted (mounted way too far up in the piston, not a likely situation) Note that the fresh needles and nozzles only address numbers 3, 4 and 5. Number 1 will cause the same problem with new parts. I agree with Gary that considering your issue, you probably don't want SM needles, or even the early stock N27 needles used in the earliest cars, as those are the richest choices. N54s are probably your best choice for this, assuming you do get new ones. But I still strongly doubt that the needles and nozzles are the problem. In this situation the float level MUST be your first check. If it's too high, nothing else you do will help at all!

Actually, the only Datsun headers they offer from Hooker are for small block Chevy swaps. All the rest of their Datsun/Nissan headers are Pacesetters.http://www.jet-hot.com/pages/Precoats/Nissan.htm

Sounds like a project for someone who's done it.

Your shop manual (if you have one) will tell you. And ZTherapy's refresh kit includes their video, which also has instructions (I believe).

Just be sure you check the float level too. If the level is too high, it's still going to be rich, no matter what new parts you put in it.

Well, you could try dropping the needles in the pistons a touch. That will lean the mixture out some. But the most important and basic adjustment on the SU carbs is the float level. That's what sets the basic mixture, the adjusting screws are just for fine-tuning. I still think that's your basic problem. And I gather you aren't comfortable doing carb adjustments yourself, so if you're going to pay some one to fiddle with things like dropping the needles, better to pay them to set the carbs up properly instead.

Sounds like the float levels are too high. The fuel level in the float bowls needs to be lowered.

Am I the only person who looks at the date that a thread was started before replying? Jeez, people, I'm pretty sure he's made the decision by now.