Arne

Since absolute originality is not crucial for my car, I'm thinking of trying one of the following: http://www.gotbelts.com/nonretractable1.html http://www.andoauto.com/antique.htm I like the second choice better, as they offer a satin finish buckle instead of chrome only.

Yup, that should work fine.

Interesting. They do look to be the same, but MSA's is $30 less uncoated, and $80 less coated. (May not be the exact same coating, though. Arizona's is Jet Hot, MSA's is generic.)

Arizona's is a nice-looking piece. And the coating is available from them as well. http://www.arizonazcar.com/header.html

I'd say it might be possible, but there is no way to know for sure until you pull it apart.

At half the asking price he'd have got bids. And may have gotten more than one person to bid and it may have made it up to his price anyway. I can see where it would be desirable to some people. Me? I'll be happy with a reprint, thank you very much.

Before you do anything to the nylon webbing (such as dying it), do some research. There is a real possibility that the dye could reduce the strength of the webbing even more than the effects of 30+ years. Most car and belt manufacturers specifically warn AGAINST dyes and cleaners other than mild soapy water.

Can someone tell me the pros and cons of the 6-2 compared to the 6-1 headers? Which is good for what?

I can do anything mechanical or electrical, but to get results that I will be pleased with, I have to pay others to do my body and paint work. Yeah, I'm figuring $5k for that.

If true, that indicates that the car was running slightly rich before.

Could be, I don't have any headers on my 240 yet. But in decades of car tinkering I've heard of bad fit issues with most headers, many brands and for many different car makes. I've always assumed that all headers suffer from fit issues, that way I'm not disappointed when I have to fight with them.

No experience with Pacesetter, but you can order headers from MSA with a similar coating pre-applied as well. MSA's coated header list.

Yeah, that's the Chassis and Body manual. I believe the engine was covered in a separate book.

In the case of the early series I cars, yes. But only in that the hole for the shifter has been cut and extended towards the rear a little, to allow the gear indicator plate to sit flat. I still don't know what I'm going to do about that when I swap in the early 4 speed I have sitting on the floor in the garage. Don't know if I can make the outer shift boot cover the difference or not. Might have to replace the console - even though my original one is in one piece and restorable.

As noted by others it's a personal decision. When finished, my goal is for mine to look period correct for the early '70s - vintage 14" mags, front spook, otherwise stock. But mechanically anything that makes it work well is OK - L28, ZX dizzy and alternator, plus whatever else seems right to me.

Thanks. We'll see if I can keep it up through the whole job. Here's to hoping...

Well, I don't find it to be so bad. Yes, there is some rust, but past that there is a lot more to work with here than with some previous restorations I've worked on. Working on my cars is recreation for me. It will take time and money, but I'd rather spend it on restoring a worthy car, it beats spending it on golf. (No offense intended to any golfers, I just don't understand.)

Early ('70 and '71) knobs take a different size set screw than later knobs. I believe the early set screw is smaller in diameter.

Man, I hope I remember to take a look at it for you this weekend...

Hard to say, I want them all on my car. But shaving the emblems is one of the most common appearance modifications I've seen for an early Z, so there must be a lot of people who prefer it this way.

Let's see, you're in Scottsdale - so how about calling Z Car Source of Arizona? Seems like a natural, since they are also in Scottsdale...

I'm pretty sure that those two wires are connected to each other on mine, but won't have a chance to verify this until the weekend at best. (And that's assuming that I remember to look.)

Two thoughts. I also have a big roll of 3M tape, which I used to attach the trim to an old Chevy truck I refreshed years ago. This tape will definitely do the job, in fact it is what GM used on the truck when it was new - no holes were used at all. The tape I have has green backing, not red, and it appears to be removable. I have done so at various times, with no damage to aftermarket paint. So perhaps there are more than one grade of 3M trim tape. But you may want to look the body over carefully, as the original holes may not have been welded, but simply filled with bondo. Look at the underside of the hood, for example, you might be able to see where the holes used to be. If so, re-drilling them out should be easy. The emblem holes in the replacement hatch I got recently were filled this way, and it is obvious where the holes should be, and easy to drill them back out.

Thanks, Gary. I'll try him as well when I shop. Before I start contacting vendors, I want to re-verify the part numbers. Probably won't get to that until the weekend.

My car is an automatic, but will have a four speed later next summer (assuming I get the wiring debugged), so the presence or lack of the kickdown wire is immaterial to me. Agreed. I paid several hundred dollars (in 1992 dollars) for the harnesses for the MG, but they were worth every penny. Even as good as most of my wiring is, for daily reliability I'd be willing to lay out some serious cash for BRAND NEW harnesses, if they were available. But if used is all I can get, I may as well keep the ones that I already have that are decent.Thanks for all your info, Enrique. If you make it down to the Eugene area some time, look me up. I'll have a nice, dark homebrew waiting for you.