Arne

Don't know why not. I was able to contact him eventually (by phone), and bought some stuff from him. It arrived promptly. There were a couple problems, which he corrected immediately. I have since visited his place in person, and bought a replacement (early vented) hatch from him as well.I found him to be honest, easy to deal with, and affordable. You have to use caution with any new vendor, but if they do what they say, and fix any problems, what more can you ask for?

A voltage regulator should be easy to find at any normal parts house, as well. I wouldn't buy something like that off eBay unless I was absolutely certain that it was the right one. And since the seller doesn't seem to know for certain, there's no way for you to know either.

Oh man, I want a NOS set of taillights, too!

Is the factory wiring fused? Already hot? Is there anything else I'd need to do to use it? I have the new wiring fused and connected through a relay, I'd want the factory wiring to be similar.

Fired it up again today, and ran it for a short while. It's running quite rich, I'm probably going to have to reset everything and start from scratch. But the simplicity of the SUs will make that much simpler than trying to deal with a botched injection installation. Very happy with it so far. And to recap, my earlier long post about what was needed was pretty accurate. I apparently had all the issues identified before I started.

Perhaps, although I didn't see any sign of it when I was under there. No matter, at least for now my new pump is mounted on the inner fender just above the voltage regulator. Seems to work just fine there.

Yes, except the '70-72 240Z's didn't come with an electric pump at all, so there is no wiring or mounting points back there. Everything has to be done custom. Much cleaner in my case to mount the pump up front where the wiring can be done neatly.

I doubt it, since all 280Z's were injected. You may have to try to adapt a late 260Z console if you really want the choke mounted there.

I suspected as much. I think that a whole lot of the new parts on eBay are simply ordered from the dealer (or other supplier) and then resold at a higher price. For example I noticed that '70-71 choke knobs open for $8.50 plus shipping on eBay, yet the same knob is $5.45 from MSA.

My car has SUs again, and surprisingly, it runs! Spent pretty much all day doing it, but it was a success, pretty much. Removed all the injection and replaced it with SUs. Had to make two trips to the parts store during the job to get unforeseen items, but all in all it went quite smoothly. The surprise was in how well it runs - I did nothing to my carbs, and I have not a clue how they are set up. Just bolted them on and trusted that they would be close enough, and they are for now. Later I will have to fine tune them. Still a few bugs to work out, but they are more with the ignition than the carbs. My tach now works, but reads obviously low. And the engine won't shut off when I turn off the key, I have to get out and pull the wire from the coil. I'm pretty sure those two problems are related, as when I turn off the key the tach starts reading much higher. Got a bug in the wiring somewhere. P.S. - Dave, I picked up a vented hatch yesterday too!

You need a wiring diagram so you can trace the circuits.

And another thought is that if the non-brake lights that come on do so dimly, you need a better ground.

Has anyone mounted an electric pump under the hood of the car rather than back near the tank? Any issues? I know that it is better to "push" with an electric pump than to "suck" but mounting and wiring my new pump (for SUs) would be ever so much simpler if I mount it on the inner fender above the voltage regulator. Any ideas how this might (or might not) work?

If the connection has been bad for a while, the wire could get hot. Without seeing the wire in person, I can't sat for sure. But if the wire itself looks good, and the solder connection is repaired, I'd say there is a very good chance that it will be OK.

My wiring diagram (for a '72) says that the green/blue wire is the power supply from the fusebox to the park/tail lights. So it probably is the problem, yes. I'd re-solder it.

And remember that the US market 240Z had different suspension tuning than Z's for other markets. It was SUPPOSED to handle more like an American car. And of course, it didn't, not really. But like Lance said, in contrast to the cars that John was used to driving...

Sway bar won't help your problem. Take it one at a time. If your struts are hosed, fix them first.

Rear sway bar was added as factory equipment in '74, with the 260Z. All 240Z's came with a smaller front bar (than the 260/280s) and none at all in the rear.The lighter 240Z didn't need the sway bar to handle nice, it was added to try to compensate for the later cars' extra weight.

No rear sway bars (from the factory) on 240s. Those didn't start until, 280s, I think.

Just the normal hot rod stuff. Here's a site with good info, but don't consider it to be the absolute last word. Should give you some ideas, though. http://www.geocities.com/zgarage2001/engine.html

That's the way I understood it as well. My '71 also has fiberglass.

I have Road & Track magazines going back to mid '77. The Datsun ads in those magazines all show the vents painted body color. In addition, take a look at the ad in this thread: http://classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=19435

I would recommend that you use the same brand and grade of struts in the rear as you put in the front last month. Keep the valving matched and compatible. Don't put the cheap AutoZone struts (Gabriel or Monroe) in the rear unless that's what's in the front too. If the front got KYB or Tokico, use the same on the rear.

Interesting. I assume those only came on 280s?

Yeah, that part's pretty obvious. But my car has had some wiring "issues" before I bought it - I'd like to be able to look at an accurate diagram to track some things down. I'm just concerned with the fact that if the heater stuff is missing, what else might be wrong with that diagram?