Arne

Yup, that's the one I've got. Someone please finder the heater fan and switch on the '72 diagram. Please tell me I'm blind.

Rear struts are definitely a prime suspect. I recall it used to be recommended that if you were going to replace struts/shocks one end at a time, to always do the rear first. Don't know that I've heard that repeated in quite a while - decades maybe. But the reason was to maintain stability on bad road surfaces. Similarly, there was old recommendations that if you had mis-matched sets of tires, the higher performance should always be on the rear. Same type of issues.

Hmm, the diagram I have (which I sometimes wonder about - it doesn't show the heater blower circuit at all) shows that in the off position the hazard just passes the brake light signal to the turn signal switch to be split into left and right signals. When the hazard switch is activated it shuts off the brake light pass-through and activates the two sides itself. So if my diagram is accurate, I can't see how it could keep one side from working. It may be able to send a false signal to one side or the other, but not keep a single side from working.

I think you're right. Here is a site with good info on the different heads: http://www.geocities.com/zgarage2001/z.html

I've never really looked a any flat-tops, but I think from your symptoms a stuck or leaking float is a high probability.

Would probably affect both sides, not just one.

Don't know about the ping noise, it may or may not be related. But the sputter and backfire make me think it's running out of fuel, not flooded. And since it runs OK for a short time when it cools off, my best guess is a failing fuel pump. A common symptom for beginning fuel pump failure is loss of pressure when warm. So start it up, let it run until it dies. Then open a float bowl and see if there is any gas inside. If the float is empty or very low, you have a fuel supply problem.

True. But I don't think the brake light circuit splits into the two sides until it reaches the turn signal switch. So to be affecting one side only I still think the problem must be at the switch.

Couple hundred at the very most. Since it's been sitting in the weather and everything probably needs rebuilt, realistically more like $100.

I'm preparing to put carbs back on my 240Z (maybe this weekend) and have looked into the water passages thing first hand. My round-tops have no water passages. My manifold is from a '72 and does have water passages. I don't know about the flat-top passages, but on the '72 manifold if the non-water carbs are bolted up, the water will not flow. The manifold passages need the carb passages to complete the circuit. So no water will be connected on mine. That won't be a problem for my climate. But the round-top install on a '73 would be far simpler if the carbs going on did have the water passages.

On 240Z's, the brake lights go from the brake light switch through the turn signal switch which is where it is split for left and right sides. Since only one side is affected, that is the most likely place to look for your problem.

Years ago when I worked in tires, it was company policy to ALWAYS remove the stickers before the car left the lot. We didn't want our customers' cars looking goofy for the first few miles..

Not a bad idea. I recall installing a fair number of the factory harder rubber rack mounts back when I used to do suspension and brake work for a living. Much nicer steering feel. Never understood why Nissan gave the US models such soft rack mounts.

A good body man (or woman) should be able to weld that up so that it is every bit as strong as an original. But at what cost? How many hours of labor will it take? Since that hatch is the non-vented one, a good used hatch shouldn't be too hard to find affordably. Might be cheaper to replace than to repair.

So Mark, what is wrong with the modified stock air cleaner you are now using? Changing to ITG or K&N's isn't going to make much difference over what you have now? If it were me, I'd probably want to rework the A/C so that I could use the stock air box. Every other A/C I've seen on Z's mounted the compressor on the opposite side of the engine.

So which do you have?

Hmm, I know that round-tops will bolt onto the flat-top manifolds, as there are people who claim that the flat-top manifolds are better for horsepower than the round-top manifolds. So the only reason I can see for having to change the manifolds would be the above mentioned water passages. And that can be worked around if you don't need the warm-up assistance.

This is the simplest way. If the front turn signals are below the bumper, it is the 240Z body. If the turn signals are in the grill, it is the 280Z body.

To make matters worse, there were two different bodies for the '71 240Z as well. Early '71s were the same as the '70s, later 71s were the same as '72-73. The differences aren't major, but they are different just the same.

Gotta do something about that pic. The car is really #919 yellow.

I'm not certain which needles are in my soon-to-be-installed carbs, but I suspect that they are whatever was stock for the 70-71 4 screw carbs (N54s?) I plan to use them on my L28, and won't change unless they are demonstrably lean.ZTherapy still says they use roller bearings, but that their bearings are "double-sealed." I assume that means they have an inside seal that would prevent carbon from getting in the bearing from the inside, as well as stuff coming in from the outside. I don't have any myself, so I obviously can't speak from experience.

There are several pictures scattered through the gallery, Search for 'su' and scroll through. Here are a few I found straight off: http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=17485 http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=16850 http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=16848 http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=16725 But remember that any of the hoses that connect to the factory air cleaner base plate now will have to have some sort of alternative figured out. The biggest headache is the breather from the valve cover. Many people use a small K&N on the breather, but that can lead to oil mist settling all over the engine compartment. A better alternative is to modify the base of one of the new air cleaners to accept a breather connection.

Round-tops should bolt right on to your existing manifold. You will need the center linkage piece for the round-tops, the flat-top linkage piece is different. Some round-tops have the water passages in the bottom, but many do not. And I'm not sure if the water passages in the flat-top manifolds match the late round-top carbs or not. So depending on what you have, you may need to block off the water to and from the manifold. (If you drive your Z during the Colorado winter, the water might be desirable. It'll be worth looking into whether your round-tops have the water passages or not.) The fuel lines for the flat-tops should work fine with the round-tops. But the flat-top air cleaner won't fit, you'll need to get a round-top air cleaner, aftermarket dual air cleaners, or the air cleaner adapters from ZTherapy. Really should be a fairly easy conversion. Should only take an afternoon as long as you have all the parts gathered in advance. Much simpler than my next project, removing the injection from my car and re-installing carbs.

No need, Enrique. I was a bit out of line. It was good of you (and others) to point it out.Since you and I are not that far apart geographically, we'll probably meet someday. And we can laugh about it. If you make it down to Springfield, I can treat you to a good, dark homebrew.

So no difference in how the dimmer switch works, or anything that would preclude using one if I'm willing to do a touch of re-wiring?