Arne

Maybe. I can't remember where I saw this, but I recall somewhere seeing that the ducted BRE was better for any car that was not equipped with a matching rear spoiler. Something about the solid spook being so effective that it wasn't balanced and the rear could get light. That was actually one of the many reasons I bought a ducted one. (The main reason being I think they look better when painted, lots of interesting curves.) I have no idea if there is any truth to this proposition or not.

Automatic Transmission Fluid. I also like to pour fresh oil over the cam before starting a long-dry engine.

Engine bay part is totally separate from the dash and rear harnesses. Can be removed separately. Just be sure you mark what goes where.

Good to see you back, Gary. I'll agree in theory. But I have the same springs as Gary, and I also have used them on the same car both before and after cutting them down. The difference in stiffness was negligible. No difference in ride stiffness. I'm going to guess that while the spring rate may have increased, the preload decreased (due to the shorter free length). Appears to have been a wash.

Hockey? In Oregon? Whuzzat?

To me, the engine harness on a 240Z isn't that hard to remove completely. It all just unplugs from the dash and body harnesses inside the car, under the glovebox. The hardest part is marking all the connectors and wires so that you can get them plugged back into the correct connectors when you reassemble. And even that isn't all that bad, the major connections are only one of a type to make it harder to mis-connect.

That's what I thought. But sometimes colors in the paint booth pictures are misleading, bad white balance. Looking good so far....

Awesome, Jerry! 110, or 918?

If you hold good title to it, I'm pretty certain that there are no fees for an out-of-state buyer. They give you money, you give them the signed-off title and a bill of sale and they take it to their own DMV, where no one cares about California's back regs. BTDT.

I'd guess design and/or production efficiency. This is true for many inline engines. The front and rear cylinders are often mirror images. Was the same on my old MG, and I believe my euro-323i was this way as well.

Looks great, Tom. Can't wait to see it in person.

The link was in fact lost in the recent forum upgrade. Mike says he will see if he can restore it. In the mean time, EScanlon's suggestion is the best bet. Mike is not always at home, so allow a little time for a reply.

Just the rear section, it replaces the rear muffler. The rest is up to you.

It used to. May have gotten lost in the recent upgrade. Let me look into it.

I love this line. "Many expected vintage car fans to bite by now, but rust-driven rarity could still push prices up." That is so true, both parts. We all know about the rust. But the other - I've been into Z cars for 6 years now. They always make this kind of list. All the 'experts' keep claiming that it is going to get hot, some day. But not yet. Since I buy cars to drive and enjoy, it isn't going to bug me if I don't make money on one. (That has never happened in my past history. I generally don't get hurt too badly, but I never make money.) But it may be ironic to see WSJ say now may be the time to buy, just at the time my eyes are starting to wander....

You're in Salem? I'd get in touch with the guys at ZTherapy (off Kuebler Road). They know SUs inside and out, and can assist you in getting that debugged in short order, I'm sure.

Bolt the ball joint into the LCA. Loosely attach the LCA to the cross member. Install the TC rod (doesn't have to be all the way tight at the frame rail). Install the steering knuckle to the ball joint stud. Then use the big pry bar to pry the LCA down and under the bottom of the strut housing.

Big pry bar. Place the bar over the TC rod with the end under the cross member. Pry down on the TC rod.

No, "spook" is a term for the front spoilers designed and sold by Brock Racing Enterprises (BRE). The first version of the BRE spook is shown in post #7 above. The later (far more common) version was/is available both with and without brake cooling ducts. The version w/o ducts is shown in post #10 above. And the ducted version is pictured here:

One big advantage of an air dam over a spook is that the air dam helps get the tires out of the airflow.

Good catch, Dan. That would seem to indicate that the suppression condenser on the coil should connect to the positive terminal. I suspect that someone reversed mine at some point in the past to compensate for the failing dizzy condenser. Perhaps I'll re-connect mine to the positive side, but on the other hand, it's working well now, so why mess with it?

MSA has them. http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/BIS/16-7701 http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/BIS/16-7702 http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/BIS/16-7703 Edit: They don't list the fourth one, the one that goes to the heater control valve.

That's a good analysis, Jon.

I have the spook on my car, and I'm certain that a modern air dam could be more effective at high speed. That said, the improvement that my spook gave over stock was huge. And since I rarely drive much faster than 75 MPH in mine, I'm willing to trade some aero efficiency for appearance. I prefer the looks of the spook.

You revived a 5 year old thread to ask that question of people who haven't visited the forums 3-5 years?