Arne

For a 260Z, you could probably use ads all the way through '78, maybe even '80. I've got access to some of those ads. Feel free to post or PM with questions.

Yeah, I've heard that the collector plate regs up there are pretty strict about period parts. If my understanding is correct, I don't think Konigs will qualify, as they are modern wheels that have only been in production for a few years. They are not a wheel that was in production back then and are still being made today, they are just a modern version of a retro style. Living in Oregon, I'm not an expert in your laws, but my guess is that to qualify easily without argument, it would be easiest to simply buy a nice set of true period wheels for it. Of course, that will limit you to 14" (unless you can find a set of 15" aluminum American Racing Le Mans), and only a few common period styles - slots, basketweaves, turbines, Libres or clones, etc.

I forgot to mention the other part of the "my Z is too tall" issue. Because of the almost complete lack of even semi-sporty rubber in 14" sizes remotely close to stock height, many 240Zs these days have tires on them that are significantly shorter in height. This makes the fender gap much larger, and therefore makes the car appear too tall. In this case, a change to 15 or 16" wheels (where appropriate sized performance tires can still be found) will close up the gap and improve appearance, without actually changing the ride height.

If you have no air tools, you can fab up a strap of some sort, that bolts one end to a clutch cover hole, and the other to the engine block. That will keep the crank from turning while you break the bolts free. You can also use it to hold it while you torque down the bolts when you replace it later.

I've got a cut-down set of repro Nissan euro Stage 1 springs on mine. I trimmed them to sit about 1/2" lower than the stock sat with non-gas shocks. No issues with stock height tires on it. FWIW, I think part of the reason people these days all think the 240Zs sit too tall on stock springs has nothing to do with the springs, but is because the cars all have gas-charged shocks these days. Gas shocks raise the 240Z ride height by about 1/2 - 3/4". When I bought my car with factory springs and non-gas inserts, the ride height was fine. Adding the gas KYBs made it too tall.

Thread moved from S30 topics to Open General discussions.

This is not just a normal single tip - it is a replica of the original 240Z muffler and chrome tip. It is for people who are after the totally stock, OE look. The dual vertical tips is an aftermarket/performance look.

Oooo! Very nice! I've been in Anaheim all this week, and had lunch with Randy today and we talked some about your parts. He didn't mention this, so I'm guessing he hasn't seen it yet. This is tempting....

It's always been my experience that things like full body kits for 30-40 year old cars are hard to find in stock, and generally require a wait of anywhere from 2-4 months for a small batch to be made. We need to remember, the market for such things is really quite small. After all, the total numbers of these cars are dwindling, and of the few that are left, only a small minority generally buy body kits. That Type 3 kit in particular may be exclusive to MSA. At least, that's how I read it. If so, and that is the only one you'll be happy with, your only option will be to wait for it.

Yeah, that looks great! The font turned out nearly perfect - it just looks right.Here's mine from a bit closer to head-on.

Could be why poor Kris.is.awesome hasn't visited since late November. Probably embarrassed after hyping it so badly.

Yeah, I think all L-series (both fours and sixes) are the same except the L-20B four. But I could be wrong...

18 DATSUN were ordered and delivered, but you may be the only one installed so far. I really like it on the car, makes me wish I'd kept one for myself.

I'd recommend getting a 280ZX gear reduction starter instead. Better starter, and the same one fits either transmission.

3 bolts? I'm pretty certain that Z roundtops have 4 bolts to the manifold.

Thanks for clarifying, Carl. But considering I was writing from memory in a motel room 900 miles away from my Z docs, I was close...

My understanding is that there were four major variations of the soi-disant "E88" head for US cars. In my mind, I call them: Early; Small chamber; Large chamber; and Big valve. Early - used on late '71 cars, from maybe 6/71-8/71 (give or take). Had a small chamber with high squish very similar to the E31. Small chamber - '72 cars, mostly. Chamber volume not much bigger than the early E88 & E31, but reshaped for emissions with much less squish. Large chamber - most '73 cars. Larger chamber for lower compression than the previous. Otherwise much the same as the Small chamber. Big valve - '74 260Z. Same as Large chamber, but larger exhaust valves.If it is original, I'd suspect your '73 head is what I call the Large chamber. Would the E31 give better performance? Maybe a little over the Large chamber or Big valve. The E31 will give higher compression (about .5 point) over the two larger chamber heads, yet be resistant to detonation due to the increase in squish. An E31 will have similar compression to a Small chamber head, but will be less prone to detonation. For street use the E31 would be about the same as an Early E88. But for a normal street motor, the maximum difference will not be very big, regardless. If the E88 you have on the engine now does not need rebuilt, I wouldn't spend the time, money and effort to change it. If it needs a valve job anyway, sure, might as well use the E31 instead. But don't expect a big difference either way.

If he did, it was the same set that is pictured above that Epperly built. They may have been on Mike's car for a while right after it was re-assembled.

I forgot that you had a set like that, Dave.

I don't see why, other than the entire system needs to be fabricated for a Z. Plenty of old Jags came with triple SUs, really not much difference in theory, still an inline six.

Yeah, been enough name-calling, both ways. I'm locking both burger threads. Let's everyone try to be civil, now.

Installed a pair of NOS non-smog (euro-dizzy) advance return springs in my original dizzy today. These springs have a quicker advance curve than the US emissions springs. Got 'em on eBay, Nissan part number 22110-E3100. They were dirt cheap. My car's dizzy had been "recurved" by a cowboy at some point in its past—the "mechanic" (or so we will call him) quickened the curve by simply removing one of the two return springs. This did bring on the mechanical advance faster and sooner, but it also was reluctant to return to the static timing at idle. That poor single spring didn't have the strength to pull both weights all the way back. These non-emission springs appear to be a good compromise. The curve is still quick, probably similar to the single spring. But now it returns to idle properly.

The ones in my 7/71 car are like the ones on the left.

His IP address does match his profile location...

Oddly enough, in 20+ years of playing with older or semi-collectible cars, my 240Z is the first one that I might actually break out of my normal cost/year on, if I were to sell it. Previous play cars (of those I owned longer than say, 2 years) have historically cost me right at $1k per year of ownership, outside of normal maintenance. Example - I was into the '67 MGB I bought and restored from '89-95 for $15k. Sold it for $9k, and thought I did good. After all, I got a fair amount of enjoyment for $1k per year. The E21 323i sold for $5k ($10 invested) after 5 years. You can see the trend. Thanks in part to the increase in 240Z values over the past 4+ years, and also to the fact that I bought it right, I could actually do much better than that if I sold it now.