Arne

Dave, knowing our market here in the PacNW, and having seen the car in person, I'd call it a solid $4000 car. Maybe a bit more if you got really lucky, but probably not. Or maybe $3500 for a quicker sale.

I can't qualify for collector insurance either - while I don't drive my Z daily, it is the third car in what is technically a three-driver household. (No matter that both my wife and son commute by bike, or that I often commute by motorcycle, 3 cars + 3 drivers = no collector status.) I agree with Rob, no need to do declared value, as a normal policy has to cover ACV, and if you have it appraised correctly and the insurance company is aware of the appraisal, that will pretty much determine ACV.

You've got mismatched pointer and pulley. Early motors had five marks on the pulley and a single pointer. Later cars used a single mark on the pulley and the multiple-mark indicator. Best thing to do now (IMO) would be to find true TDC (0°) by watching the #1 piston through the plug hole, and confirm which marks line up at TDC.

I guess it depends on how badly you want a low VIN, and how much of the low-VIN stuff is still there. But for anyone not as concerned about that, it seems pretty dear for the condition. I didn't pay much more than his asking price for my red car. Not low-VIN, but the condition was much better. I'v got some of the pre-purchase pictures on my web site - http://1971.240z.home.comcast.net/~1971.240z/extras/red-gallery.html

3M 76 has a higher temp tolerance than 77. That's what I used on my headliner two years ago with good results.

You may want to use the forum's search feature, as the twice pipes system have been discussed here extensively in the past. Just search for "twice pipes".

I also left the regulator mounted to the inner fender. With it there you really can't even see the regulator eliminator plugged into the harness. Makes for an almost invisible mod.

Leakage is definitely a possible problem (trust me, I know firsthand). Didn't have it overfilled long enough to notice any long-term issues.

No good answers, I'm afraid. Sounds like your alternator has failed. If the battery is too low to make it home or to work with as little electrical load on as possible (all lights, wipers, fan, radio, etc off), towing may be your only option. About the only thing you can do short of that would be to verify connections at the alternator and voltage regulator. A well charged battery should get you more than 17 miles, especially with lights off. But perhaps you didn't catch it that soon.

Also, I started a Gallery category for Canby 2010. Feel free to upload your pictures.

I didn't register because I wanted to win anything, I just wanted a reserved parking spot this year! So I guess you could call that supporting the hobby. I really did enjoy one thing about being registered - parked in the "judged" area you get to chat with a lot of strangers, not just your existing friends. Lots of people come to look at the cars, and many of them are former owners who will share their old Datsun stories with you. Much more of that going on in the registered area. I guess it looks that way for my car, mostly since a lot of what you can see is not only stock, but still original. But if I really get down to it - despite the mostly stock, and period correct looks - I could make quite a list of non-stock items on my car. They just aren't very visible.Then again - the criteria for the "stock" class at Canby is pretty loose compared to something like the National Convention. No way my car gets classified as "stock" there. But at Canby, stock bodywork, drivetrain and interior seem to be the main items. A few add-ons like my car has don't override things like full and functioning emissions gear, etc. Mike's yellow Jedi car could probably pass for the stock class if he ditched those triples for a set of SUs.

Guys! No where in the factory manuals does it ever say to fill until it runs out of the filler plug, for either differentials or transmissions. If you do that you will be overfilling it significantly. I'd recommend following the factory's instructions, which always state to fill with the proper (measured) amount of lube. I know that in a Type A transmission - for example - filling to the filler hole is over 0.5 quarts too much.

NorthWest Z's sticker is a reverse (inside the glass) die-cut available in several colors. I really like the subtle, almost etched glass look of the gunmetal gray one. Something like that would be simple, but classy. Would be great to have a sticker with the Classic Z rather than the modern Z31-style Z.

Perhaps. We were there all day Sunday. And yes, the foot traffic we saw would seem to confirm that attendance was healthy, I agree.But as I said, both my wife and I felt that the number of cars (not people) was down this year. We've attended on Sundays for the past 5 years running, and both of us felt that there were fewer cars this year. Coming back home and comparing to photos I took at previous years events seems to confirm fewer cars. In prior years the registered car area was filled all the way back - this year there was plenty of extra space for many more cars. Not sure why, and certainly not blaming Datsuns NW - as I mentioned earlier, this was by far the best run and most organized Datsun event that I can recall. The club did a GREAT job this year. We've beat that topic to death in prior years. I've come to the conclusion that the current fee schedule is probably the best compromise that can be made, all things considered. This was the first time I've registered (pre-registered, actually), other years we've been in the open parking. I think keeping the open parking cheap is a big draw. At $5 per car including driver and passenger(s) admission, there's no reason that even some poor high school kid in his beater 720 can't justify attending. And that HAS to be good for the hobby.

Me three. I ditched my ZX dizzy because I didn't like the advance curve. Knowing what I know now, I'd have just ditched the vacuum advance instead.