Arne

I agree. But I have one of those new ones, and it looks so heavy and chunky-looking compared to the worn original that I actually have the new one in my sock drawer. I'd rather have my worn original than the new one. It's that bad (to me).

The big reason I went with the Pertronix was that I did not want to have to find a place and drill holes to mount the Crane under the hood of my car. The Pertronix is self-contained inside the stock distributor, so no drilling or such-like was necessary. I've had both a Pertronix and a ZX (E12-80) in my car, both were similar. In both cases, everything better be 100% for either to work properly. Worn plugs or too much voltage drop will cause less than optimal performance.

Welcome, April. Get cracking on those brakes and start having fun. Trust me, once you get the brakes and suspension sorted (and the seats), you'll have a lot more fun with a Z on the Green Springs than on 97. (I grew up in K Falls, still have family there. Don't get down with the Z much, though.)

I deleted the duplicate thread.

No help from me on this. Racing on public roads or highways is irresponsible and stupid. You want to race? Take it to the track.

Large connectors were used on Series 1 cars in the USA, through about 12/70 production. The small connectors were used from then through the end of '73 production. The early style (large connector) taillight wiring is different from the later cars, too. In the early cars both upper bulbs work as brake lights, but only the outers are brake lights in the later cars. I may still have a pair of the correct large connector taillight harnesses. PM me if you're interested.

Someone please tell me this thread is meant as a joke!

Check the insulation on the wire that runs from the points to the terminal in the side of the dizzy. Make certain that it isn't shorting out there.

I actually think that the majority of these were purchased for use on cars that aren't yet ready for them, so I don't know how many have really been installed yet. Probably not many.

No need for a second thread on the same topic, so I merged them into one thread.

Fixing the rear quarter panel and replacing the fuel tank will be much cheaper than repairing a pile of rust. Looks like a good start. It appears to be a late '71 in 905 red, so it started life very similar to my car.

Nissan added new improvements all the time. Compared to a '71, a '73 has retractable seatbelts, intermittent wipers, the later style transmissions (eases possible tranny swaps), and improved differential location (better halfshaft angles). Many people who want to keep them stock don't care for '73s because they have the despised emission-carbs here in the USA. But if you are planning to mod the car anyway, just use the earlier style carbs (assuming they haven't already been swapped) and you're golden.

If it's not rusty, this one is a far better buy. Might have farther to go to get it auto-x ready, but a much better starting point, in my opinion. '73s are better daily drivers, too.

I'll bet my car has been in the rain at least 8-10 times this past winter alone. Different strokes... I'm with Julio on this. The cooling ducts don't do much for a street car. I bought a ducted spook simply because I like the looks of the ducted one better. Strictly an appearance preference.On the plus side, I've heard that the ducted one is a better choice (aerodynamically) for cars that don't have a rear spoiler.

I can't recall for certain, but I don't think those bolts are normal high grade bolts. I think they have full diameter non-threaded shanks to prevent the caliper from moving under braking loads. If you feel that you need to replace them (probably not necessary if they are in good condition, IMO), I'd strongly recommend only using factory bolts, not generic high grade bolts. The part number is 41250-E4100. Looks like list price is around $2.50 each.

Had to wash my car today before I could take pictures of it. You see, I tend to enjoy driving it so much that it gets driven in the rain now and then. Yes, in the RAIN! Oh, the humanity! Back on topic - I didn't buy any of the DATSUN for myself, so all I have to choose from is the 240-Z...

Fair enough. I'm familiar enough with how a totally innocent comment sometimes may come across wrong in a plain text communication like this, so I generally give the benefit of doubt to the poster anyway.What drivetrain are you going to back that motor up with?

I don't really think of myself as a "purist", but I'm sure that others think of me that way. And while I have no personal desire to have a V8-powered Z, if you do, go for it! But I will say that as an admin/moderator, I don't much care for the confrontational, in-your-face attitude of the original post.

Many people (including the professional glass man who did mine) install the trim into the rubber BEFORE installing the glass into the hatch. If that is no longer an option, I believe there are special tools for this (that may or may not work well).

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=34891

If the throttle butterflys are closed, they impede the flow of air into the chambers, thereby giving lower compression numbers. Trust me on this, hold or block the throttle wide-open while testing. For the most accurate numbers, I've even known people to remove the SU pistons during the test as well. You want the engine to be able to suck in all the air it can take.

Thought I'd post an update on this. I finally got to the point that I felt I had to do something about the blue NGK wires. They just weren't the right look for my car. So I did some shopping at a local parts house and picked up a set of "Magstar Gold" wires. They are black with black boots, and other than the color appear to be very similar to the NGKs. Part #12-6416 was the set I got, the fit is decent. Does not have the bent boot for number six. But they are built here in the USA by Wiretec (a division of General Cable) and were quite affordable. Obviously not stock, but not "in-your-face-blue-aftermarket" either.

I agree. Pull all six plugs, not just one at a time. And holding the throttle wide-open is also important, the numbers will be considerably lower with the throttles closed. I'd re-test, and I suspect your numbers will be higher next time.

Came from a recent (completed) group buy here. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=35617 The pre-production test unit I had in my car for a couple weeks was even wider yet. I had Joe trim the template back a bit to this current size. I have not found the lettering to be obtrusive, but the 240-Z lettering does not extend as far beyond the mirror as the DATSUN does.Thanks for posting this follow up picture, Julio. I need to get a new picture of my car with the finished product on it, not just the quickie shots I took in the garage. I may end up merging this thread into the original group buy thread later, just to keep it all together.

The avatar looks great, Jonathan! Can't wait to see bigger pictures.