Arne

Paint is almost two years old now. Exterior refresh of my red 240Z Tail trim was repainted almost three years back now, using some of CDMs paint. The batch my paint came from may have been a touch lighter than some, but it is darker than it looks in the pictures.

Hmmm. Looks like some of us chatty "newer" members need to get a life....

Has anyone besides Chris (26th Z) considered having their originals re-webbed? http://www.ssnake-oyl.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=Ssnake-Oyl&Category_Code=RS

Probably the guys following him with the camera running. Why else would you be taking video on a boring street like that unless you knew the tire was going to come off?

First, I'm right there with you, rubber bushings are fine for street driving. But as Jon said, you won't even know they are there, but they will prevent damage to your new Tokicos from bottoming out. Poly bumpstops are the only poly parts in my car, the rest is factory rubber. And in fact, I don't think there are any other replacement bumpstops still available.

Sounds like a seized strut insert to me. So the Tokicos should take care of it. Did you order new poly bumpstops?

Trust me, if anyone knows if it is just that simple, it's me. And yes, it is that simple.

Yup, the firewall is from a 260.

Lots of people here who have eliminated the evap tank and most of the hoses inside the car. It can be done without eliminating the vent. Look in the Tech articles on this site, I think there are at least one or two write-ups on this there.

Look again, I said "Factory", not third-party. You want a real Nissan manual.

If you don't already have one, get a copy of the Factory Service Manual (FSM) for your year. The FSM (not cheap third-party books) has good explanations of all the systems in the car, how and why they work.

Not before late Summer, it appears.

Probably. It always is, you know. But since these people ARE professionals at this stuff, I figure they probably know what they are doing.

Who knows? I'm not an engineer. But even the simple stuff - is there enough room under the hood for both engine and suspension? How strong are those A-pillars going to be in a roll-over crash test? Will the... You begin to get the idea, I'm sure. I can sit down and sketch a cool tweaked version of most any car. But that doesn't make it feasible, financially, or engineering-wise. That's all this is, a personal sketch taken to the next sketching level.

Again, any updates?

Nothing but some guy's napkin drawing rendered as a 3-D model. No engineering behind it at all. Just a lot of, "Hey, wouldn't this look cool!"

Well, it is a little thing - I drove mine to work today...

Typically with Eibach, the springs with the '1' at the end of the painted on part number are the fronts. Despite other things you may read, it makes no difference at all which end is up. The car may settle some, bit not much. If you are comparing the height with Eibachs to the prior height with possibly sagged stock springs, there may not be much difference. What is the height measured at the bottom of the rocker panels? And what size tires do you have?

You are about as far away from this shell as you can get and still be in the country, but I thought I'd post it anyway. http://eugene.craigslist.org/pts/1666902387.html

Canby is great gathering to see more vintage Datsuns. Sure, there'll be no shortage of dimes and Roadsters with modern powerplants in 'em, but there'll be plenty of L-motors too. If you make it down from WA, watch here for info about meeting up at the I-5 rest area for a Z caravan the last 5-10 miles in to Canby.

Nope. That about covers it.

I agree with both of the above, the problem of dying when the key drops back to Run is either a bad ignition switch (the small electrical part screwed to the back of the ignition lock) or a bad ballast resistor. Try by-passing the resistor first, if it runs that way the resistor is bad. If the problem still persists, suspect the switch. The problem of the key coming out in all positions is either worn pins (wafers) in the ignition lock, a worn key, or more likely a combination of the two.

The tone and note is great, smooth and musical to my ears. I drive around with the window down all the time, just to better hear it. But for my taste it could actually stand to be a bit louder. And the Monza I have definitely isn't as carefully built as the Ansas, the angle tips aren't aligned as nicely as I'd prefer. But the Monza was quite cheap, and since I wasn't certain I wanted the dual-tip look, it was a great and inexpensive way to find out. Turns out that I do like the look, and will work to keep it when I replace my current small diameter (1 3/4") system. Currently leaning towards using a Magnaflow rear muffler to replicate the look of the Abarth system rather than the the Ansa look. But either look (Ansa or Abarth) will be fine.

Yeah, all three of those are the same stem. I tried one of those, they would work in a pinch, but protrude to far out into the open air for me to be happy with them. I'd rather fight with the very short rubber stems.