Arne

I don't think so, just open up the casting for the pump. Oh, make certain that the fuel pump cam is present - should be bolted to the front of the cam gear.

Not fair, Bruce. Mike has been at the past 2 or 3 Canby events. Even drove #32 down last year. What he's looking for is something in addition to Canby. I can certainly support that. Same here. :disappoin:sleep:

Wow. Really glad the weather has been this wet around here. Had it been really nice I might have considered making the trip. And judging from the pictures, it would have been a huge waste of my time.

Bumpers, air cleaner base and taillights make it look like an early '74 260Z to me. No matter, you're welcome here either way! If you envision a thread to cover the whole project, I'd probably post it in "Your ZCar Stories".

Waiting to see the pics....

Something to consider - any metallic color is probably not going to look its best unless sprayed carefully. Might not be the best choice if you plan to stick with the method you have been doing with the white.

The output seal is about $5-7 from Nissan. Pull the driveshaft, and R&R the seal. Simple job. Part number 32136-U0100, same for all years, I think.

Got to thinking about this plan, and after reviewing my notes I'm not sure that the ZX ignition is the answer. Besides the issue with the aggressive advance curve of the ZX (which can be overcome), I had the same problems - generally at 4000 RPM - with the ZX. My fear is now that if your car isn't happy with a Pertronix, it may be equally unhappy with a ZX. Might be worth waiting a bit before dropping that kind of cash on something that might not be an improvement.

That's the point I've come back to now. In fact, I've spent far more time swapping ignition parts around over the past two years than I would have spent maintaining points. After all, I only drive it 3-4000 miles per year. How much maintenance would points take for that period? Not much. Had the detonation issue been the only problem with the ZX for my car, I'd have probably gone this route. But the detonation was only part of the issue. I still experienced the failure to rev out with the ZX ignition - indeed the revving problem was lessened if I retarded the timing so the detonation became a minor issue for me. Yup, that's how I ran it. Both with a used original and a brand new ZX coil. The spare module I carried in the car came from a 210 in the local pick-n-pull, paid $10 for it. It worked fine, and got my friend back home when his module failed without warning at a Datsun show. I think it is still on his car running great even now. My thoughts exactly. At this point I figure I have better things to spend my time on.

Just the standard things. Hotter spark, less need for choke, faster starts, and less maintenance. Nothing critical, and nothing that's worth the fussing around that I keep doing. Tried with and w/o the resistor in virtually all situations. In all cases, it worked better with the resistor bypassed, but still not as reliable as the points.Oh, to be honest, I can't say that I won't try it yet again. After all, I already own the stuff, eventually I'll convince myself that there must be a way to get it to work. But the most consistent problem has been spark wash-out at anywhere from 3500 RPM on up, the exact point it fails depends on what other config I have running at the time. Things like ballast or not, wide or narrow plug gap, which coil, etc. It's worth noting that while I've seen this failure-to-rev complaint now and again with the Pertronix, I also experienced it with the ZX dizzy. This is what leads me to believe that the root cause is my car, not the ignition per se. The most likely theory in my mind at this point is my car has too much voltage drop at the ignition coil and such.

I re-checked mine, and I find I had read the meter wrong. Mine is at ~35° at idle and also drops slightly with increasing revs, not increasing as I wrote earlier. As to why, I'm also leaning towards current sensitivity, due to my other symptoms with EI, and the fact that the ZX alternator addition did seem to help some of my issues.

For that type of color, it might be easier to ask for Grabber Green (early '70's Ford Maverick) or the similar green used on the 'Cudas and Dusters in the early '70s. Codes for those colors are probably easier to come by than for Kawasakis. Although - Krylon used to have a color they called "Jungle Green" that was widely used in the mid-80s as touch up paint for Kawi off-road machines.

Done that, several times. Yup, analyzed and followed them carefully. More than once. It's a simple device, not much to screw up there. I guess that's part of the problem. I've never had any problems with points. They work great, better than the EI systems. Cars used points for decades. They are also simple devices.

My take gives the same answer, but from a different direction. Would I recommend adding A/C if you didn't have it already? No. But since you already have it, if you can make it work I see no reason to yank it.

Like the title says, I've given up. Over the past 2 years or so, I've wasted a pile of time trying to get electronic ignition into my 240Z. And I've failed. I could never get anything working well enough that I could be happy with it. I've tried two different ZX distributors, a total of three different E12-80 modules, a Pertronix ignitor in the stock 240Z distributor, and four different coils (original 240Z, original ZX, new aftermarket ZX & 3.0Ω Pertronix). It's worth noting that all three of the distributors I've tried had good vacuum advance units and no slop in the shaft bushings. Good, solid dizzies. I've fought pinging from bad advance curves, ignition washout at higher revs, and sometime both. I've swapped plugs, wires, cap, rotor, etc. around several times in a concerted attempt to make this work. (It probably doesn't help my confidence in this knowing of at least three E12-80 failures in the past few years around these parts, either.) Try as I might, I haven't been able to get anything to work as well and trouble-free as the stock points. I'm not an idiot, I've been working on and restoring old cars for decades. But I've certainly failed here. Yes, I'll concede that a good electronic ignition should be superior to the stock points. But for a weekend GT touring car, the points are probably good enough. I'll also concede that considering how many people have made this work on their cars, perhaps my car itself is at fault. (Perhaps too much voltage drop at the ignition?) But on the other hand, there's plenty of threads here with people having issues with electronic ignition conversions, so maybe I'm not alone. At this point I'm not convinced that either the ZX ignition or the Pertronix are the answer. Maybe the Mallory Unilite is better, but that's too much money for a stock L24. I'm still open to suggestions. I've got a Pertronix Ignitor and 3.0 Ω coil sitting on the bench right now. If someone can give me a clue, maybe I'll try again. Or not. It's running great on the points right now....

Maybe. If the car is truly a Series 1, it should work fine. But while some 1/71 cars are Series 1, most are Series 2. If it's a Series 2 harness, you'll need the matching fusebox as well. And again, I don't know if a Series 2 will plug into your existing rear harness.

No, too sharp an angle and much too long. The correct stem is very short, the stem part is less than 3/4" (~17 mm) long. The angle is approximately 45°. This allows them to point out from between the spokes, but not really protrude out so far that they are in danger of being snagged and damaged.I shopped around for replacements for these Appliance stems for 3 years, never saw any current production that would work decently. All of the angled stems I have found are either too long, wrong angle, or often both. I have come to the conclusion that these items were truly unique.

I'm not sure why you'd want to do this, or what you result you expect from such a mix. In my experience, it's not normally a good idea to have components that are "tighter" or "higher performance" on the front than on the rear. Tends to make a car wander and the rear end feel "loose". Definitely happens with higher performance tires on the front than on the rear, and also with suspension components. So I personally would not recommend this setup.

I bought my last bag of 10 trim rivets from Nissan, and they seem to fit pretty well. Still a fair number of squeaks in the rear, though. Part number for black is 90909-E4100, my club discounted price was $0.86 each back in '08.

Parts car, and not many parts left at that. The interior has been on fire. Definitely not restorable without EXTRAORDINARY effort and cost. Pass on it, big time.

It may be significant to also consider that VW's current US offering in this market (the Routan) is built for them by Chrysler - it is basically a re-badged Grand Caravan. VW may have pioneered the market, but this sounds like surrender to me.

That's one of those real early pre-production publicity photos. No emblems and bias ply tires.

The distributor is driven by the oil pump shaft, and that is what is off by a tooth. You will need to drop the oil pump and re-index the shaft. IIRC, you'll probably need to drop the front of the sway bar to drop the oil pump. The oil pump gear is helical, so it is very easy to get it off by a tooth. Turn the engine to TDC (0°) before you start. At TDC the indexed key for the distributor should be just a bit off of vertical. Imagine it as a clock face and the time is 11:25. Note which way you need to turn it, lower the oil pump enough to move it a tooth that direction and put the pump back into place. Re-check the shaft key. Repeat as necessary to get the 11:25 setting. Probably only one tooth off if you can get there by turning past the holes.

I've owned 2 close relatives - an MG 1100 (Mini Cooper's slightly larger brother) and an MGB (mechanically almost identical to the MGA). But I figure close only counts in the three 'H's - Horseshoes, Hand grenades and Hydrogen bombs.

I've only personally owned one - the 240Z. But I've driven 11 of the 20. Or 12 if later Jeeps than the one pictured count.