Arne

Actually, that stamping was how the original Appliance lug nuts were marked, by car application. The same wheels also fit Toyotas, but Toyota has a different thread pitch, so when I sold these back in the day, I'd grab the four wheels and whichever lugs where applicable for the car they were going on. Later versions they just stamped the 4 digit Appliance part number on them instead. IIRC, the 12x1.25 lugs ended in '34' while the 12x1.5 ended in '35'. The first two digits identified the style of lugnut. Steel wheels were '04', the really short shank for some flat steel wheels were '05', and the mag lugs were '06' - I think. Different priorities, I guess. I won't let a sports team of any flavor influence where I live. I live here DESPITE the Ducks, not BECAUSE of them.

Bear in mind that the pre-Rotolug Appliance wheels had a shorter shank depth than most other mags. Normal shank lugs and locks will be too long, normally by about the thickness of a second washer. Instead of the normal 3/4" shank, you'll want to get some with about 5/8" shanks. Me personally? I despise wheel locks of all kinds, and would never go out of my way to buy a set for any wheels. They are nothing but annoyances, and won't prevent an semi-experienced wheel thief from lifting your rims. And I don't think there's a lot of demand out there for your old Appliances, anyway. Just my 2¢.

Those are all horizontal, suitable for 280Z. No vertical stacked left available these days. Believe me, I looked long and hard a couple of years ago before I built mine from scratch.

Oddly enough, as a normal user (not running a high volume server), Comcast has been rock-solid and hugely reliable for me over many years. But I've not heard that type of thing from fixed-IP accounts like yours. Appears to be great for normal users, not so good for business/commercial use.

Ironically, the server move seems to have slowed down my access. Might be related to the fact that the old server was just across town and on the same network (Comcast) as I am on. So my traffic never had to traverse the Internet, just bopped across Comcast's local nodes from there to here. I'm bummed! Well, not really bummed. The change for me wasn't bad, and I'm no longer a user of much import. I'm glad it's better for those of you who still own Zs.

Never heard of them. Do they have a compelling advantage over all the other known wheels in that style? Price, different finish, better size/offset choices? If not, I'd probably stick with any of the known players in that style like Rota, VTO or Panasport.

IIRC, the only difference for the California models in '71 was the carb needles - I think. The air pump and the rest were the same as 49 state. There was no EGR in '71 on any of them. I pretty much agree with all the above replies, and will add that having the intact emissions gear is rare enough these days that potential buyers told me that they considered the fact that my car still had it a selling feature or bonus.

The ones pictured above are Amco mats, a very common aftermarket accessory, often added as a dealer option. The very earliest 240Z's (first couple hundred or so) were shipped to the US with rubber floor covers, but no carpet. The rubber mats were roughly the same shape as the carpets, were not intended to sit over the carpeting. Those earliest cars had carpet added here in the states before they were sent to the dealers. Most of the time the carpets were added right over the top over the rubber mats, and a few have been found under the carpets on well-preserved low-VIN cars. But other than those earliest cars, no, floor mats were not included with any 240Z.

You know those aren't factory equipment, don't you?

Number doesn't matter, it will vary depending on many things, even the weather. The key is that you want both carbs to read the same.

Both styles available from MSA, who is a site sponsor. Synchrotester Tool Synchrometer Tool

FWIW - R&T listed their 1970 test car's curb weight as 2355 lbs., test weight (w/driver and test gear) as 2769 and weight distribution (w/driver) as 51/49. Factory data always assumed empty car for weigh distribution.

Here's what I wrote back when I did it:

Good info, Steve, thanks! They don't look too bad on the car. But still all the 14" tire issues.

I used the R-T mount as a strap replacement, using a single poly bump stop at the top with a factory lower mount. All angles are as stock, but the R-T and bump stop hold the diff in place much better than a strap, even a new strap. I loved mine that way. Took all the lash out of the drivetrain.

No, the "trade for" rims are Toyota Celica/Supra GTS rims. 14x7 with a relatively deep RWD offset. They will fit a Z, but proper lug nuts are difficult to find, since Toyota uses 12x1.5 while Nissan used 12x1.25. I've seen them on Zs before, but not sure that I've ever seen them with lug nuts I'd trust. The wheels on the car look very JDM to me, we would need to see if there is any ID cast or stamped in the back side. Value? Hard to say, in both cases. The Celica wheels are rather wide and deep, may cause rubbing in front, and will be difficult to find tires for. I'd say go with whichever you personally like best. But check out the lug nuts carefully if you go with the Celica wheels.

Nope, different. The '73 bumper bars are thicker. Have new bolts welded in.

Yes, Carl, you are correct. Pacific updated the design of those caps years ago, in the '90s maybe? So the current ones are close, but not exact.But the best part is that the originals are quite durable, other than the rubber tip cap. And the later rubber caps are either the same, or so close as to be indistinguishable. So find a set of the originals, even if the rubber is perished or gone, and use the rubber cap from the new ones as a replacement.

Very good. That's exactly how I did mine, except my tubes weren't calibrated. This will work.

Great idea! I know from experience that getting the float level correct on both carbs is the essential first step to adjusting the mixture in these carbs. I've done this using a clear vinyl tube on the nozzle-tube nipple, but that takes fiddling since you obviously can't check it with the engine running. Can I assume that you are using the drain plug on the bowls? If so, remember that some of the early Series 1 cars came with SUs that had no float drains.

Never hurts to ask. But I sold those quite some time ago. The only Z-related stuff I've got left is a bunch of original Japanese light bulbs (Life and Toshiba, mostly) salvaged from the three cars. Dunno what to do with those.

Yes, the 'D' hubcaps were used (in the two different versions) for both the '70 & '71 model years. The 'Z' style started in '72 (about 8/71 build date) through the end of the '76 280Z.

Congrats, Julio! I know the feeling, our anniversary coming up in late July will be 36 years. Hard to imagine...

"It's a beautiful day in this neighborhood,A beautiful day for a neighbor, Would you be mine? Could you be mine? It's a neighborly day in this beautywood, A neighborly day for a beauty, Would you be mine? Could you be mine? I've always wanted to have a neighbor just like you, I've always wanted to live in a neighborhood with you. So, let's make the most of this beautiful day, Since we're together we might as well say, Would you be mine? could you be mine? Won't you be my neighbor. Won't you please? Won't you please? Please won't you be my neighbor."