Arne

I had a local locksmith cut me a pair from code a couple of weeks ago. I'd recommend having them cut one on a cheap key blank first, as a test, then copy that to the new repro once you are certain it works well. In my case, the locksmith found that the codebook actually contains a typo in my car's code. After correcting for that, the new pair on the generic blanks were fine, so I then had that code copied to the new oval head repro. I plan to keep one of the two generics as an unused pattern for the future, will use one generic as my daily-driver key, and the nice repro when I go to meets, shows, etc.

What's your philosophy on modifications for your S30? Vote here, and feel free to post explanations.

THEY ARRIVED TODAY!! I'll be installing one of mine tomorrow as a final test, then spot-checking and working to combine packages as appropriate. If all goes well, I'll be shipping them out next week. Stay tuned...

I'm with Dave. Can't see many non-locals making the trip for a one-day deal. I hope it turns out well.

Not recommended by KYB. Their instructions specifically state that the GR2 line is not designed for use with any lowering spring set, and the warranty is voided should you do so.That said, I know of a few people who are satisfactorily using KYBs with Eibach... Ride is quite good, when used with rubber bushings. Firm and sports-car-like, but compliant. I'm using them with a set of repro Nissan Euro Stage 1 springs, which had a slightly stiffer spring rate (maybe 10% stiffer) than stock. I'm very pleased with the ride.Ride height issue is more complex. With stock springs, you should expect KYBs to increase the ride height by 10 to 15mm (3/8 to 5/8") over what it was with non-gas strut inserts. The actual ending ride height will vary depending on how much your stock springs have sagged over the years. The Euro springs I am using make the height info even more complex, as due to what we now believe are differences in the lower spring seat location on the strut tubes for the European delivered 240Zs, the Euro springs (either original Nissan or repro) need to be cut down even to get to stock ride height, even with non-gas inserts.

Good question, Dan. Knowing how to safely disassemble these would be extremely helpful during refurbishing them. I'll tag on to this thread with a related question - has anyone successfully repaired or hidden hairline cracks in the original plastic shift pattern emblem?

Previous was a Group Buy thread. I don't know if Dave has any left now.http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=36463

As I noted in the RT-mount thread, when I installed the RT-mount as a limit strap replacement (using the stock lower mount and upper poly bumpstop) the difference in the amount of lash in my drivetrain was startling. My car is much easier to drive and shift smoothly now. And my lower diff mount was only ~5000 miles old, in a car with a bone-stock L24. I highly recommend the RT-mount in this config to anyone who drives their car regularly.

I believe the check valve is still available, but to the best of my knowledge, the two hoses are NLA. There are more than one style, definitely early and late, might be an intermediate choice as well. Various people have built replica hoses using cloth covered normal hose, and running copper wire inside to hold the proper bends. I'm a bit leery of that myself, the original hoses were heavily reinforced to prevent them from collapsing under high vacuum conditions, which could cause a reduction in power assist for the brakes.

The decals/stickers are available all over. MSA, Zeddsavers, and Banzai come immediately to mind.

Dave, I sent you an email. I heard from Will a few weeks ago. He is - like many of us at certain times in our lives - really busy with other things, and CZCC is not high on his priorities right now. He figured things might loosen up in a month or two.

First, when new 110 was an orangy-red, often called Persimmon. It was not a pure orange. It did not replace 918 (which was the true orange), but replaced 905, which was best described as a warm red. Over the years, these three colors fade and change a lot. 918 frequently takes on a brownish cast, 110 tends to fade toward orange, and 905 fades to be much the same as un-faded 110. The air cleaner color was not exactly the same as any of those colors. Of the unfaded varieties I'd have to say the 918 was closest to the airbox color. Other people have used Chevy Engine orange with good, affordable results. Will you get chastised? Maybe. But it's your car, so unless you are concerned about strict originality, paint it as you like.

Looking at the pictures so far, it is obvious that it was a late-74 260Z that originally came with the big bumpers. The early-style bumpers are a later conversion. That's not a bad thing in and of itself, but seeing something that is obviously a significant modification always puts me on the suspicious side when a car is being promoted as "original".

Since the ad in the classifieds here is posted by you, why don't you tell us about your own car?

I've heard them referred to as "towel bars". 'Nuff said...

Back when I bought my Hooker gasket set I got it from a local performance parts shop. They had it overnight from a warehouse in Portland, no shipping cost. Any parts house that sells street performance stuff for a small block Chevy (Edelbrock, Holley, Flowmaster, etc.) should be able to get this part in short order. Why mess with Summit or Jegs?

I guess my question at this point is - what is the big issue with trying to locate the original owner? Is there some problem you are trying to track down? If not, why expend all this effort? Sure, it'd be great if we all had all the history on our cars. But sometimes that's not available. Is contacting the original owner going to increase your enjoyment of the car?

Your descrption of the current panels being "burnt orage" doesn't sound right to me. I think all of your originals have aged and color-morphed.

Really? I've found that dropping the transmission on my 240Z is probably one of the simplest and easiest cars to do that on that I have ever owned. I can do a clutch in my garage on jackstands in 3-4 hours, tops.

I'll agree with Mike and Carl. My lights (including the chrome trim) are great. But they could stand to be dissassembled and cleaned inside, especially the left side (over the exhaust). I haven't done it yet because I fear ruining the chrome trim while trying to get it off. That one long stud is fragile and darned hard to get the clip off without breaking it. But if reproduction trim was available, I'd tackle the job, knowing that I could replace it if I did break it.

Seems to me that the butterscotch I remember of 30+ years ago was more beige than I see these days. I wonder if the color has aged toward the orangish of your car over the years. It's possible that your new parts may be "correct" for new parts, but not a good match to old, aged parts.

I've never seen a spook in urethane, only glass or CF. Rear panels are available here and there, but all 240Z panels had the exhaust cutout. Again, I've never seen one that was correct for a 240Z without.

Christopher, as mentioned above, I'd recommend taking a look at some of the very nice semi-local 240Zs in your area before you go into the major project of the twin-turbo. Oregon and SW Washington is home to a bunch of really nice 240Zs that you can use to get a good idea of what is possible for even a mild build up. I'm thinking of the cars of some of the following members (and apologies in advance to anyone in this area I miss): beandip's yellow '73 - Beaverton funz1z and luv24ds's Ferrari red early '71 - Vancouver, WA nwcubsman's wife's '73 - Beaverton-ish? escanlon's gold '71 - Vancouver, WA A little farther South - Mike's yellow '71 - Albany Or even my car, farther South yet in Springfield