Arne

Both the repro stock replacement and the Euro Stage 1 springs have been sold out for some time now - a couple of years, perhaps.The official line on the Euro springs was that they were ~10% stiffer spring rate than the stock, and 10-15mm lower ride height. The reality was much different. While the spring rate part seems correct, in real life the Euro 240Z must have had different strut tubes, as the Euro springs actually raised the ride height by 20-25mm. Most of us using them (like myself) ended up cutting a couple coils off of each spring.

Other sources, both of which have a more vintage style lift-type latch available: http://www.seatbeltsplus.com http://www.ssnake-oyl.com The second link will also do a top notch restoration of your original belts, with all new webbing, etc.

Also, note that not all 260Z master cylinder caps are the same. Caps for a Tokico cylinder may not fit a Nabco cylinder, for example.

No, the filter is separate from the cap and just sits in the opening beneath the cap. I doubt the cap seals are available separately. At least I never saw anything like that, even when I did brakes for a living.

I've heard back from about 75% of the buyers so far. We're still moving forward...

Well Dave, you gave me far more than I needed for free, so if I can remember where I stashed the excess, it's only right that I should pass along your generosity.

I'll try to remember to get into the garage to dig it out this evening. If you don't hear from me soon, prod me.

Just to clarify, here's my current plan. I will either re-use my current (modified) stock downpipe, or possibly buy one of the MSA replacements as shipped with their flanged system. Either way I'll start from there with a flange joint to a 2 1/4" pipe with an 18" glass-packed resonator in the transmission tunnel. Another flange joint near the rear crossmember, and into the 'S' pipe which will connect to the dual outlet Magnaflow (#11148). Will probably drive it for a week or two with temporary tips until the glass settles a bit, then decide on either resonated or plain angle-cut tips, depending on the sound and noise level. Pipe will probably be aluminized and with normal (not mandrel) bends.

Jerry, you ordered one (1) 240-Z sunshade, and I've marked that as confirmed, along with John, George, Mike and several others via email and PM. Also for Jerry - the pictures might not let you envision it well, but after seeing one up close and personal again (30 years later), I don't think white letters would show up very well at all on the mirrored surface. I could be wrong, but I don't think it would look all that good.

I hadn't considered it until now, it is an interesting thought. But I can't recall that I've ever seen static cling vinyl in mirrored transparent.

Looks good, Stephen. I'm sure you've got way better sound now than the old Pioneer Supertuner and pair of 5 1/4" Kenwood single-cone speakers in mine. I had to build a face plate for mine as well. I think I've got some spare ABS sheet left over that Dave (Zs-ondabrain) gave me. Let me know if you need some.

I'll be getting back to the exhaust as soon as I get the long-running Bolder Tint deal off my plate. Next month, maybe?

I have added Andy, Carl, Dan, Michael and Julio to the "still confirmed" list, and have diverted one of Michael's DATSUN orders to 280-Z.

Not too tough.The original instructions say to use clear water only. But the additional adhesive on the newer mylar doesn't allow it to slide around for positioning as easily as the originals did, so Joe is experimenting with a drop or two of dish soap in the water to make that easier. Cleanliness is essential. You want the inside of the windshield and the contact side of the sunshade to both be as dust and lint-free as possible. You'll never get it perfect, accept that going in or you'll get really frustrated. The instructions say to use a squeegee, and they do mean a RUBBER squeegee. Flexible rubber is essential, a harder plastic squeegee won't do it. Lastly, it doesn't pay to try to get it positioned too tightly against the rubber windshield seal. Try to get it too tight and you risk wrinkling and creasing the mylar. Absolute perfect fit is not critical since even an eighth to a quarter of an inch gap really doesn't show - since the black rubber window seal is right behind it. Definitely transparent, especially from the inside.

So here's the important parts. I was expecting (and promised to all of you) that the end result would be the same as the originals. Well, after having to re-create the dies, the loss of the original lettering stencils and having to pick and tweak a newer font, and now the change in production process, it should be obvious to all that while these will be made by the original maker and be as close as we can come with currently available materials and processes, they won't be "the same" as the originals. Yes, virtually the same as the one-offs done for racers, but not the same as the original retail versions, as we have all been expecting. Therefore, anyone who wants out, let me know. I'll be contacting each buyer individually to offer this, just in case some people aren't following this thread that closely. I'll happily send a full refund by check back to anyone who asks. This does, however, re-open a new possibility. Since we won't be silk-screening them, the restriction for 20-per-logo no longer applies. This means that 280-Z will be available! So as with the refund, if anyone wants to move some or all of your order to 280-Z, please let me know. I apologize for the time this project has taken, and that the end result will not be quite what was promised.

Spent a little time this afternoon installing the latest pre-production sample. I know, you are all saying, "Another sample? You said we were almost ready to go!" You're right, I did say that. And then on last Monday I received a message from Joe, the manufacturer. Rather than paraphrase it, I'll just paste it here for you all to read. Sigh. :disappoin While I had reservations, I had Joe build me a sample using the letters to see how it would look. Honestly, I was not optimistic. I was envisioning the "vinyl letters" as being the fairly thick traditional die-cut items, and could not imagine how you would be able to get the mylar to stick tightly to the windshield with thick letters. The new sample arrived on Friday, and I found time to install it late this afternoon. The results were better than I feared. Quite a bit better, actually. Not as good as my memory of 30 years ago, but much better than I feared once he mentioned the vinyl letters. Turns out the vinyl material is far thinner than I expected, and the small line around the edge is less noticeable than I thought it would be. From 3 feet away I doubt anyone will notice. Finally using real mylar (instead of paper which doesn't stick to the windshield) gives the opportunity to get a true test of the shape. And that is very close, but I'm working with Joe to make another small adjustment. Pictures: On the car. Instructions. (Copyright 1975!) Examples of what the vinyl letters do: From the inside - ignore the squeegee marks, but note how the numbers look a bit "embossed". From the outside - note the reflection around the 'Z'. This is only visible from this distance in certain light, but it is there.

Yeah, both the '96 328i and the '91 Jetta 16v are ~110k now.

Was sitting in my 240Z today (working on the windshield sunshade, update on that soon to be posted), and looked at the odometer and noticed that while driving the car to and from work last week, it finally turned over 70,000 miles! My car is getting old! Fact of the matter is, the 240Z is the lowest mileage car we own...

There's a picture of a new one of the style you have in the thread linked below. My car (7/71) did not come with that style. It had (still has) the one pictured below. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=33600

OK, it sounds like the rear springs at least are shot. I'm not aware of any new springs in current production that are similar in ride height and spring rate to the stock 240Z springs. The current aftermarket springs all lower the car at least an inch, except for the Arizona Z springs which are about stock ride height but considerably stiffer spring rate. To maintain a ride similar to stock, you will need either stock or only slightly stiffer spring rate. You could watch for a set of used 240Z springs, but there's always the risk that they may not be all that much better than the ones you have on the car now. The other thing you could try to find is a set of the Nissan Euro Stage 1 springs, either original or a set of the reproductions that were available 2-3 years ago. I have the repros on my car with KYB and the ride/handling combo is quite nice. These springs do show up in the classifieds here or on eBay now and then. They need to be cut down some for use on US spec cars with gas shocks, but done correctly they give great daily-driver results.

Do you still have your original stock springs? If so, are you certain that they need to be replaced? Is the ride height still close to stock? If so, the springs are probably fine and all you need are new inserts, and the KYBs would be fine. I'd only worry about replacing the springs if the current set are sagged more than 1/2".

As you can see, the time it takes varies wildly by the amount of work, who's doing it, and how many other jobs they may be juggling. Mine was 6 weeks to the day from when I started pulling trim until I finished reassembling it. That included having the roof skin replaced at one shop and the paint at another. Documented in the thread below. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=30588

I suspect you will hear from several people with this combination who have not noticed a problem. While I do not have personal experience with this package on a 240Z, I do know this: 1.) KYB specifically says NOT to use GR-2s with lowering springs. If they determine that the inserts were used with lowering springs, the warranty is void. 2.) I ignored this warning in the past on a previous (non-Datsun) car, and the strut inserts were badly worn (bouncy, no rebound control) in less than 15,000 miles. YMMV, of course.

My buzzer (aka the squealer) is still connected, and will remain so until I get the ignition lock/key corrected so that the key can not be removed in any position. The buzzer serves as a good reminder that I haven't got it all the way in the Lock position. But once I have that corrected, I'll disconnect it!

Don't rub it in, Mike. I still wish I had a yellow 240Z....