Arne

It's not required, but most recommend dialing in more timing advance if you haven't already.

Already discussed - http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=36153

I split this off from the technical discussion and into a new thread in the Group Buy forum. It's gone way past a feeler...

I think I'd want to do mine with the stock lower mount and a top snubber, if for no other reason than it would be less noticeable that way. I'm kinda funny that way...

Good question! My diff is still in the stock '71 (more forward) location. So I'm thinking the RT mount would still fit fine as long as I don't move the diff rearward. Sound right?

I'm LMAO here! I think I said this same stuff after I started getting in deep in the Bolder Tint deal. Which is finally moving along nicely, BTW, but way more headache than I thought it'd be.I might be interested in one too, Dave. You know my car and how I do my mods, how reversible is the RT mount? Could I go back to stock later without traces?

Yeah, should probably move this into the Group Buy forum.

I like the looks of the curved ones better than the Chastain, but no way would I drill holes in my tailgate for louvers, so if I were to add a set they'd have to be Chastain or some other brand that mounts the same way. Not real high on my priority list, but if I ever stumble across a set...

Actually, that appears to be a common problem. I had the exact same thing happen when I changed the thermostat on my car. What happens is that the shaft of the bolt corrodes and swells in the t-stat housing, so much so that the bolt won't turn and the head breaks off. Once you persuade the housing to give up its death grip on the corroded bolt, my experience has also been that the broken bolts unthread easily. In my case, I had a brand new t-stat housing waiting on the shelf, so I wasn't worried about destroying the one that was stuck.Short version - new t-stat housings are still available new from Nissan, and are actually rather affordable. I'd recommend having one on hand before attempting to remove a long-attached one. Oh yeah, ALWAYS thank your wife. It's a good habit to get into. Correct. Plug it at the t-stat housing, remove the pipe going around the rear of the engine, and cap off the supply to that pipe at the T-fitting on the side of the block.

Depends on your build. For an engine with higher compression, more aggressive cam, etc., there are probably measurable benefits to having a the more aggressive spark. Probably not nearly as noticeable on a mildly built motor, and for a car like mine that is totally stock (right down to the smog pump) probably little reason at all. I'm quite happy with the Pertronix in my 240Z. But performance-wise, my car is just about as tame as a 240Z gets these days.

MSA still sells brand new 240Z "euro" distributors (more properly described as "non-emission") for $200. So call it $300 for a new dizzy with Pertronix. I've also seen Nissan reman units for less. So yeah, that's still better price than a new Mallory.

Pertronix is great - IF the distributor in which you install it is in good shape. If the distributor shaft bushings are worn or the vacuum advance doesn't work, many of the advantages are gone. I have one in my 240Z stock dizzy and it works fine. But my dizzy only has 70,000 miles on it and is very tight. Typical 240Z dizzy by now is pretty sloppy.

I think I'd consider getting a new master cylinder that didn't need the plugs, but's that's just me...

For those of you who have not yet sent a check, please do so soon, as I will be laying my plans to sell off the unsold ones immediately after I get the pre-paid units shipped.

It's a go! I have contacted the manufacturer to place the order. Will be cashing all the checks shortly. I was told earlier to expect 3-4 weeks from this point. Status updates as they are available.

http://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech/aim/aim.html

I did alignments for a few years. Jon is correct, the alignment tech will enjoy working with this stuff. Makes his job much easier, and he can do a much better job.

For today's street gas, 10.0:1 is about as far as you can safely go. The chamber shape isn't as advanced as newer engines.Unless you build a custom ignition with knock sensors. But that's not very budget friendly. Triples (Weber, Mikuni, Dellortos, or OER) are definitely the way to go for max performance, but they aren't cheap. Used sets often go for $800 or more, and may need to be rebuilt. You might consider sticking with a pair of stock SUs to begin, and move to triples later.

Many (maybe most) '70 240Zs did not come with any decals or labels on the airbox. Those didn't show up until after several months of production.

The full-auto I have in my car now is an aftermarket Harada #HR-22. I found it at a local clearance house. Same size and mounting as the factory unit, which was also made by Harada. Don't know that they still make the one I got. I paid all of $33 for it.

I too think the KYBs are a good OE replacement choice. But be warned - since they are a gas-charged shock they will quite likely raise your car's ride height by about 1/2" (12-15mm) or so when used with stock springs. Not that you have much choice, all of the OE replacement choices are gas-charged. But don't be surprised if that happens.

Sounds like you need to go with a different muffler to me.

You have to take the antenna unit out of the car, and pretty much disassemble the spool case to get the mast off. If the mast isn't bent up but doesn't go up or down, the likely cause is that the nylon/plastic/whatever spool cord-thing inside has become brittle and broken. I've been told that it is possible to replace the spool-cord with really heave weed-whacker string, but have no experience doing that. My original broke about 8" from the end, so I just shortened it. My antenna now works, but is about 8" shorter when fully extended. Of course, I then changed the radio and replaced it with a full auto unit instead. Replacement masts used to be available from Nissan, but have been NLA for a few years now. If you find a source for the original 240Z masts, please share.

I'd guess that it is far more likely that the spring is broken rather than missing. These springs are fairly stout, so I don't know if it will be easy to find a suitable non-factory replacement. In the other hand, I don't know if they are still available from Nissan, but the part number for all four speeds and all five speeds through '78 is 32830-20100 which retails for less than $2. Each transmission uses three of these springs. I'm guessing the ZX 5 speeds use the same springs. The detent ball is 32829-26760 which also fits all those same transmissions. Assuming that your spring is either broken or missing, you should be able to change it in the car. Remove the plug carefully while the transmission is in neutral, stick a small magnet in the hole to remove any pieces and also the existing ball (if any), then install the new parts and re-install the plug.