CanTechZ

Check Bring a Trailer, you will find some there if you look. You might have to do some math.

Hey Kats, that is great fuel economy and your math is spot on. For comparison 13.63km/L equals 7.33 L/100km, my 2017 Nissan Sentra SR Turbo (1.6L turbo), with a 6 speed manual, is rated at 7.3 L/100km HWY, (source 2017 Nissan brochure). Very good considering the 45 year difference.

I remember watching that one when it came out. Enjoyed it then and also now. If we're sharing great Z commercials I like this one for the new Z.

At a recent meeting at my house, my body man/painter had a look over the car in it's dismantled state. He also saw some of the paint removal I had done and gave me the good ahead on using this method if I wanted to continue. When he gets the car he will be marking areas that will have paint removal done by his media blasting guy. The areas to be media blasted will only be those that are not subject to distortion from the blasting process. Then he will use manual methods to remove the remaining paint. He is very experienced in and only does quality restoration work, and has done many high level restorations for various collectors in my area that have much deeper pockets than me. As always I appreciate your thoughtful questions and comments, please keep them coming. Lol

What do you guys think of my wheel choice, 255/45R20. Lol

Yes, with care. I will leave some areas where the concave curves are to tight.

Started doing some paint removal in the inner fender area and under the hood. Interesting that the factory primer on the inner fenders is dark charcoal grey, almost black and not medium grey like the outer and under hood surfaces.

According to the parts book they are M4. The pitch should be 0.7mm. Plus one on the JIS screwdrivers.

I was also to surprised to find that and I have no idea as to why. It was done over 40 years ago. Found similar in a couple of other spots on the body, but it did seem strange on a new replacement OE fender.

Here's an update on the paint removal process, using heat and razor blades. The exterior is basically done. I will leave last traces of primer for my body guy to deal with. It's only about 0.5 mil thick, plus or minus.

Actually I got lucky on the price from Whitehead it was Cdn$226, with tax and shipping to my door in BC it was Cdn$265 total. Although it took six weeks to get it. His website showed it as "in stock" when I placed the order. I also got a quote of Cdn$378 from a not to far away Nissan Dealer. So I'm glad I took a chance on Whitehead, although I was a little nervous that it was taking so long. And wow, that is one pricey gas cap.

Recently received this new OE Mirror from Whitehead Performance, one more part crossed off my list. These things have sure jumped up in price.

Just for reference here is one of the horns from my 7/70. It does appear to have the greenish olive drab finish, but darker that most I've seen. there was a lot overspray on it so It might be darker from staining. Here is a picture of the 31K mile car that sold for big money on BAT a couple of years ago. The horns look like a light olive drab color on the fronts. Here is a good discussion about horn finishes, sorry for the duplication of pics.

Didn't realize you had a 280, on the plus side KF Vintage is always adding parts. I don't know enough about 280's to confirm fitment but likely would be similar, hopefully others will chime in. Good luck You might want to consider adding a signature to your profile with your model and year, it will then appear on posts.

I have the same issue on my 1970 and purchased this (see pic) from KF Vintage recently. It includes the doubler plate you are addressing and the reinforcing piece at the crossmember location. These parts address the problem of repairing the outer as well as inner steel. How is area circled in red on your car, this area rusts from the inside out?

Probably, and all for a two second pan by of a parked car. No expense spared in the movie industry. If I had squinted I would have missed it.

I spotted a brief appearance of a 240Z, near the end of Fast and Furious 9. It looks like cast member Sung Kang's car repainted. I liked it better in white.

Just had a look and couldn't find it. I had forgotten how terrible some of those Zeds are. Great for a laugh but hard to un see.

WT...! I wasn't sure if this should go here, or in the Zeds only a mother could love thread, but I picked here. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1974-datsun-260z-54/

The biggest advantage of using a 2 ton, is the extra boom length, usually about a foot more. And at full extension the de-rated tonnage is double. For example my 2 ton has a 57" extended boom length and is still rated for a half ton lift. Also using a leveler is a must if you are pulling the engine and transmission together. Here is a picture of mine at full extension pulling engine only, it was useful having a leveler even for engine only removal.

That ball retains the pump rocker arm pivot pin. There is one on the opposite side as well. They are pressed into detents in the lower housing to retain the pin, and are not removeable. Mine has a small oil leak from the side you see in the picture.

The one you posted above is the correct one for 1970/71. @nix240zmakes early type and the later style for 72/73 https://www.240zrubberparts.com/apps/webstore/products/show/4423763 https://www.240zrubberparts.com/apps/webstore/products/show/4423741 The 72/73 style is not just JDM, it's for all markets. Years ago I purchased an NOS later choke assembly and used the later style grommet on my 1970, Here's the early (top) vs later (bottom) choke assemblies for reference

Does the old paint still have a matte finish after your cleaning? You might want to check this out...

Kind of a tough call. Actually I don't have much experience with painting so I can't say if it's a good idea to spray the matte clear over the existing original paint. One thing I would try, at least in a small test is to use a cleaner like Dupli-Color grease and wax remover. It would be a good prep to remove any last bit of residue from the Murph's and scotch brite process. I'm not familiar with Maguires #7 wax, but I thought you would usually remove any wax prior to paint with clear. I've use a lot of this stuff with good results on various cleaning/prep jobs.

Could be one of the conversions done by Griffith Custom Coach Company of Florida that were I believe commissioned by a Florida Datsun dealer, here is discussion about it. Not actually contracted by Nissan.