CanTechZ

AKA "clipped washers". I don't see them called for in the parts book for fender installation, my guess is that if you find them, they were likely just cut to suit when required.

Great info, that for sharing that. Also good to hear that the parts from RC are good.

Here are a few pics as I was taking my 7/70 apart for reference. The packing material is a dense foam, like used in other places, and was very dried out, basically crumbled during dis-assembly. Pulled these out of storage today and cleaned one them up, I lucked out and they seem to be in quite good shape for being 53 years old. Here are a few more pics of the clean one that you can use to compare to yours. You will note that when both parts are glued together a slot is formed to retain the clip that holds everything together. When I removed the chromed plastic grills from the top side 3 of the four pins broke off. I did find remnants of a barrel clip as well, but it might have been from a emblem.

I believe that these are not meant to be loose parts and were actually glued with an adhesive to the "plenum ducts" then installed as a unit. The materials seem very similar and are meant to be replaced as a unit if required. With these being obsolete your solution is a very good one. FYI, part No. 65 in the online parts diagram, labeled as 'Rubber - Base Bumper'. is actually for the rear bumper end bolts. I believe item 64 is mislabeled. And it appears the the packing/gasketing material is missing from the North American parts book that is also used for the Futofab online version.

Thanks for this excellent description/ procedure. The JDM parts book details this area much better than the North American parts book. Here is a snippet from the JDM book and partial parts list. The clips you made and show above in post #798, are item 14 p/n 90829-E4101, yours look great.

Here's what I found on my 1970 doing as you suggested on my front rails. 20211208_144651.mp4.2bdf5fcff6bb33f08d7a9bb4b7ddccb9.mp4

Just had a look at the 1973 JDM parts book and it shows both 30mm and 25mm long depending on model/engine spec. Part number for 25mm long is 08124-02510.

I had a look at the bolts for my transmission crossmember, and they do have the 7 on the head but they are only 25mm long. Definitely original as they have the yellow paint mark on them. Looks like there was some switching happening on the factory floor. Did you find any that are 25mm long? Also while searching the web for a JIS fastener dimension chart with the older small heads I came across a company called Fastener Mart. I have never ordered from them but they do list M10x1.25 x 30mm long JIS B 1180 small head. Here is a link, on that page there is a link to a pdf dimensional chart with JIS B 1180, DIN, ISO and ANSI specs. The chart does show 14mm A/F x 7mm head ht. for JIS B 1180, M10. Likely the head marking would be 8.8 https://www.fastenermart.com/BFK693-620.html

I will take that on in my spare time. To do it right, I will need to gather some more references and information first. I will include a tips and tricks section with things like using this decode method to help identify those "extra" fasteners that we seem to have leftover after assembly. When you have the 10 digit part number you can then use the parts book to see where a part is used. Here's an example with the bolt we've been discussing. This chart directs you to the correct micro-fiche and section showing places the part is used. 08124-03010 is also used on the rear engine/tranny mount as well, on micro-fiche 2

Here is my attempt at decoding the Nissan part number for this bolt, from the parts book the part number and description is: 08124-03010 BOLT - HEX M10 (UPTO 07/73) Here is the decode: 08124-03010 BOLT - HEX M10 08 = standardize hardware prefix 12 = Hexagon Bolt, Medium carbon steel 40 = 10mm diameter (M10) 30 = 30mm length 1 = Zinc cadmium coated 0 = Filler to complete ten digits Decode source: http://datsun1200.com/modules/mediawiki/index.php?title=NES_Part_Numbers Here is a snippet from an old Nissan technical publication about standard bolts, from this and info in the link above, my interpretation is that "Medium carbon steel" for this bolt would likely indicate a "7" marking on the head.

They are M10 x 1.25 x 30mm long with a 7 on the head. Thread length is 21mm. Here's a couple of pics. You can even see some yellow paint on them. 🙂

Here's a pic from my 7'70 I think it's a 7 on the head. Here is a close up of one with the picture above flipped over. I will find the bag they are in and get some measurements shortly.

Thanks, and I totally agree that it will be more balanced with those items removed. They will come off eventually, just doesn't make sense for me to do it with the limited space I have.

I took a break today from work and emptied out the shell and made some room around it to do a test flip. The rotisserie has a worm gear reducer to do the turn, I counted 15 turns of the crank handle to rotate 180. The balance point appears to be quite good with the 5-1/2" drop from the rotation axis to the bumper mounts suggested by @grannyknot, thanks for that info. Although this is a bit subjective, as the 30:1 reducer makes it a little hard to judge. Here are a few pics and a short video.

Luckily I have already removed most of the undercoating, so hopefully there won't be much mess. As far as rotating it, I've only turned it about 30 degrees with my son holding the door closed. Still need to empty some parts out, like fenders and misc light items. It's been a bit of a storage bin. Also I will need to tie the doors, hood and hatch closed. It will likely be a fee days before I can do the full spin. I will most definitely report back when I get to it.

Yesterday, with the help of my son we completed getting the car on the rotisserie. It went very well. Now on to the bigger task of re-organizing my garage. Here's a few pics.

Installing the front and rear brackets went well, time for breakfast.🙂

Yesterday I picked up the finished rear brackets I had made for mounting the shell on the rotisserie and gave them a quick shot of primer. I'm very happy with the result, my fabricator does great work. Over the weekend I will be working on getting it all put together. I was hoping to do this in my driveway but the weather is not cooperating. The predicted rain for all weekend has already started. My garage is only 21' wide x 20' long so it will be a bit crowed during assembly. When it is all done there is not much front to back walking room but I laid it out in cad and after moving my beer fridge and work bench it looks like it will work. It was handy that I had created a basic 3d model of our house to plan our recent kitchen re-model. Here's a couple of images,

Great info, thanks for clearing it up. After looking at images on BaT it looks to me that the extra reinforcement with the M8 x 1.25 threaded holes was added to all chassis production for the '72 model year. Here is an image of from HLS30-43540 (9/71) without the the holes followed by an image from HLS30-52950 (10/71) that has them.

Can anyone tell me what these two M8x1.25 threaded holes are for? I see them in both the black and gray LH front frame rails above. Here is a pic from an old ebay that has them and corresponding holes in the LH end of the lower rad support x-member. I don't see them on my 7/70 HLS30. These holes are on the replacement LF frame rail I have from KF. In my spare time I have been creating a 3D cad model of my chassis and I have included these holes, I'm just curious about what they for. Here are a few images of my model, it is a work in progress.

Excellent work, and hey those templates look very familiar. Of the full set of tar mat templates I created, those two were the most time consuming. Nice to see they worked out.

Yesterday I picked up the rear rotisserie brackets from my fabricator (in the tacked state) and this morning I was able to do a test fit to check the angle for the diff mount extensions. They fit good, so they can now be welded up as is. While they were attached I also did a squareness check and found that the left bumper mount was was note quite parallel with the right. A 1/8 inch shim (2 washers) between the far left bolt and the new bracket took care of the issue, so I will have no problems with alignment when assembling on the main rotisserie end support. Hopefully next weekend I will be able to get the body onto the rotisserie. The red arrow in this next pic shows where I need the 1/8" shim.

I'm sure it will look great, and hopefully function good as well. When you get your passenger seat in, you could try adjusting the LH door mirror to check what you can see from the right side looking through the existing LH mirror. It will likely be similar to what you see from the drivers seat looking at your new RH mirror. It would be interesting to see what viewing angle range your new RH mirror has, if you have a protractor.

@Richie G great score on the 96302-E4600 RH mirror. Are you concerned that it might not have enough angle adjustment, if it was designed to be used in a right hand drive S30? I measured the angular viewing range on the new OE LH mirror (96301-E4600) I recently purchased for the resto on my 1970 HLS30. The range was from 85 to 66 degrees. A range of 19 degrees. Just for reference on my '96 Tacoma the RH mirror is at 60 degrees, and is also convex.

This stuff work great on old rubber items and door seals, Honey Goo Holistic Rubber Care https://www.kleenflo.com/products/809.html Strangely the website say "NEW" but its been around for years. Hopefully is not a new formula that's not as good as the original.