CanTechZ

Here are a couple of reference pics I took of mine during disassembly, supporting what @jonbillsaid.

The image on the zcardepot web page looks like a DIN metric bolt that has an larger hex size on the head and the thread length looks longer. Originals are JIS metric with a 19mm hex size. The zcardepot ones I'm sure will fit, I just wonder if the overall length is adjusted to compensate for the longer thread length.

No screws that I recall, except for the components that attach to the firewall. When I took the insulation off the firewall of my 7/70 I found that there was some adhesive, but not as much as was attaching the insulation to the transmission tunnel. I did notice that the cutouts in the firewall insulation were a tight fit to the firewall metal protrusions for attaching components, which aids in holding the insulation in place. Here are a few pics of mine, I am lucky in that I can reuse my insulation as it came off in decent shape.

Good ideas, I will use the "rope" sealant method on my tail light housings whenever I get to that point on the resto of my 1970. Thanks for posting!

On mine I couldn't see the marks until I started started cleaning off 50 years of road grime. On the 2500 mile 280Z 2+2 I do see some white inspection marks on pics 255 and 263. Here are a couple of zoomed in crops from those two pics. I wonder, if on later years the marks where applied less haphazardly, but still exist upon close inspection. I would think that for the QA process critical fasteners would have some kind of mark after they were torqued. We definitely do it on the mining equipment we manufacture where I work.

Nissan has not stopped this practice, I found plenty on my 2017 Nissan Sentra SR Turbo when new, Still see them after 117,000 Km's.

Nothing strange about finding inspection marks after 21K miles. I even found some on my '70 after about 150K miles. There is a great thread on the subject of factory paints marks here,

Factory bushings likely yes, but not the early type with formed over flanges and straight cut serrated rubber washers. This one has the later wavy washers. Here is a good discussion on the subject.

I've been seeing that notice as well.

The parts book confirms this within a month on the transmission assembly page, showing type A up to 08/71 and type B from 09/71.

Strange, I would think based on that VIN, the production date would have been around 05/71. Here is a snippet from @Carl Beck's list.

What is your VIN and production date? Model year is very subjective. That "series 1" console could very well be original and correct for your car.

My '70 is the same as @Terrapin Z. Also there is a good picture in the steering section of the FSM. 1970 thru 1973 FSM's all use the same set of pictures. Or I should say was before I took it apart for my resto...

Looks much better than the hockey tape repair on my 52 year old breather hose. The hose itself is not to bad, just the fabric is failing on that end.

Thanks CO, I agree on your comment about lighting, it does make any comparison somewhat subjective. I will try to find some Metallic Carbon Mist, I think you meant to say it's a Rust-Oleum Product. Adding confusion, I found that in Canada it has a different part number, 264656, not 261413. They carry 264656 up here at Home Depot, but the stores near me are currently out of stock. Here's the links to Carbon Mist in the US and Canada. https://www.rustoleum.com/product-catalog/consumer-brands/universal/universal-mist-metallic-spray-paint?ls=261413&lc=Metallic Carbon Mist https://www.rustoleum.ca/product-catalog/consumer-brands/universal/metallic?ls=264656&lc=Carbon Mist When I can get my hands on some and have a chance, I will do a test spray on the spare tail light finisher panel I first tested DC Dark Shadow Gray on and report back. Who knows maybe I will like it better and respray mine when I complete my resto. Cheers, Mike

Yesterday I pulled my tail light finisher parts and my grill and hubcaps out from storage to take some color comparison pictures inside with flash on and off and outside in filtered sun. I wanted to try in full sun but I lost my opportunity when the high clouds came in. Here are the results. The grill is original, not repainted. Inside with flash off... Inside with flash on... A couple outside, filtered sun (no flash)... Lastly here are couple of cut and paste comparison with snippets from @kats that I "borrowed".

Hi Kats, sorry I'm a little late responding to your question. In 1988 I replaced my fuel tank with a new one from my local Nissan dealership, so it does have the extra vent lines but they were capped off at installation. It doesn't have a reservoir tank at the right rear quarter or the fuel flow guide valve or extra line. It does have the original single groove harmonic balancer pulley.

Thanks Site, I'm still very happy with the results. When I picked the color back in 2016, I must have looked a little strange in my local Canadian Tire store holding a hub cap up to various cans of paint. Lol This is a test I did on the inside of a tail light finisher that had OE paint in good shape partly painted with DC dark shadow grey and matte clear. Here is one of my unrestored hub caps against the end result,

My car is a 7/70. #6521 and has a slightly different emissions decal. It also references the 1971 regulations. The interesting thing is that my car is a non-emissions model for the Canadian market and came without the emissions devices mentioned on the decal. Here is a picture from before I removed if during my current resto. Here's a link to a discussion on this subject. Might be a good place to continue this discussion.

Here is a close up picture showing the difference in texture and color of the old and new scuff plates. I purchased the old vinyl wrapped one in 1984 and got the newer texture painted one in 2015, neither one has been used. Another interesting fact about the early ones is that they first came with a five hole pattern, and the holes are dimpled. I still have a rough five hole one that I saved when I put on a replacement in 1984. The inner rockers on my car, both have five holes to match. For reference here is my collection. The two with pink tags have been on my 7/70 car from 1979 and 1984 respectively, until I removed them for my current restoration.

Your calipers look great. I see that the M10's that you are inquiring about a torque spec have a 10T marking on the heads. The Datsun (Nissan) general torque spec book shows tensile strengths and torques for 4T, 7T and 9T bolts. It would likely be safe to assume that a 10T bolt would be 11% (= 142,000 psi) stronger than a 9T and likely could be torqued 11% (= 31 - 42 ft-lb) higher than the 9T spec as well. Extrapolated values are for M10 x 1.25. General-Datsun Torque Specifications.pdf

No problem, it's interesting that the earlier part number, 11110-E3021 that applies up to 04/71, has two versions. The initial version was used in early 1970 and is on some mid 1970 cars like mine. These early ones have a brazed on reinforcement plate and the drain plug is in a different location.

Here is a discussion with pics of 11110-P0100.

If it helps I created this sketch of my 7/70 car for another discussion. For this topic:

This will be a good one to watch on BaT, https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1972-datsun-240z-225/ Over 1000 pictures with hundreds of the resto.