CanTechZ

Luckily so far no cuts from paint, and btw I am wearing eye protection, more chance of an injury with that. However I did shave off a strip of lead from the quarter panel to roof joint. Strangely some of the paint chips/strips were sharper.

Thanks Mark. Did you use heat? I mainly have been using the low setting on my heat gun.

Still waiting for my body guy to complete a project before he can start on my car, so I decided to start the process of paint removal. I had planned to leave this to my body guy but decided to do part of it. After considering sanding or chemical stripper I decided to try razor blading. Using single sided 1.5" wide x .009" thick razor blades and a heat gun, it seems to work quite well and cleanup is very easy. Anyone else tried this method? Here is a short video clip and a few pictures.

Thanks for posting this image. It's probably the best image I've seen to show the difference between Phillips and JIS drivers. You can immediately see why Phillips drivers tend to "cam" out of JIS screws causing damage. Here is a good link about the differences, https://bike.bikegremlin.com/10583/phillips-vs-jis-vs-pozidriv/ FYI, just to add to the confusion note all JIS screws have the dot marking.

Great stats. I had a look at my 1978 North American parts book pdf and like you mention it does show the -E4600 and -E4102 P/N's but no date ranges. Interesting that the picture shows the early version with one notch. The 1973 JDM parts book pdf I have shows the -E4100 and -E4102 P/N's, and is again pictured with the early single notch, but opposite side. My guess is it was early 1970 when the change to -E4102 with two notches was used for all markets.

Interesting, actually my car is a Canadian market car. It's an HLS30UN model (non emissions). I guess the "A" is still a mystery.

You're welcome Kats, those chalk marks are interesting. My 7/70 HLS30 has an "A" marking. Any significance? It's not an automatic.

The hood hinge torsion rods should be black, so I would assume they were off, when originally painted. Here is a pic of my 7/70 car, there is no evidence of overspray on them, not even the ends. Never been painted under the hood.

If it helps, I created a 3D step model and flat patterns from a 12/70 parts car glove box I have and uploaded the files here. The flat patterns are in acad.dwg format and pdf as well. It's from a Canadian market LHD car but hopefully it might help. FYI, I just noticed a typo for the sheet size I noted on the template drawing. It should be 24" wide x 36" tall, scale is 1:1 when printed on that size of sheet.

Were you actually referring to the North American parts book regarding seal order, I saw that it is incorrect there. I have noticed other errors in the NA parts book. Another source for info is the JDM parts book that can be found in the downloads, microfiche section, posted by @hr369. The illustrations are much better than the NA parts book and it is a great reference. Here is a snippet from that book that shows the seal placement, as you correctly thought it should be.

Yesterday I made and installed four diagonal braces to complete my rolling chassis support. Deb, my better half, has renamed it "The Two Forty A La Carte". In keeping with my no welding theme, the braces are simple angle iron parts, cut/drilled/formed and then bolted in using Unistrut channel nuts. I don't have much experience making parts like this and it was enjoyable to practice some basic techniques.

Thanks for posting this, my 1970 has the exact same screw and washer on the right side, but it has a self tapping screw on the left side that has an integral washer. Now I know which is correct. Strange that this screw and washer is not documented in the parts book.

No problem. It is Friday after all.

I believe those ones go between the inside of the fender and the in inner dome shaped headlight bucket for the bulb. That one is also available from vintage rubber. The one we are looking for goes between the front of the fender and the back of the headlight case aka sugar scoop.

Yes, mine are missing too. In the case of early cars, I think 70/71, the headlight cases are FRP. So it's not actually metal to metal on them, but all should have them.

At least the Nissan illustrators added the correct hubcaps for each manual. The image I made by cutting and pasting happens to show the evolution over the years. 😆

Thanks for checking the date code on my Jack, I appreciate it. I really like comparing these details on our cars. Cheers, Mike

Except for all of the robocalls around election time.

Out of interest I checked the owner manual that came with my 7/70, it is dated 20 March 1970 and shows the wheel lug wrench I have. I also checked my collection of scanned owners manual for 240Z's, 260Z, 280Z's. Interesting they all show the same early type of lug wrench. Or at least the person is holding them the same way?

My 7/70 has the bottom, perpendicular, style. It has the Nissan hamburger and the letter M but no Nissan Motor stamping.

I agree with @Terrapin Z' but I would like to add one small point. Unless I'm mistaken, the function of the openings in the black panel on the inside of the hatch is to let air escape (not enter) through attached rubber flaps that act as a one way check valve. Supposedly to block exhaust fumes from entering. Here are a few pics from my 7/70 car while I was taking it apart, hope they help.

Today with my son's help I finished assembling/installing the rolling support frame for my shell. The Unistrut channel comes in 10 foot lengths so I decided to leave the long members full length. Here is the result, no major issues were encountered.

That's very creative, thanks for finding and sharing.

Welding is the typical method for something like this, besides not having a welder, I just wanted to try something different. Bolted does offer other benefits, like allowing for easy adjustments or reuse for another project. Great idea your friend had on the wood frame rotisserie, I would like to see a picture of it in use. People tend to work with materials they are comfortable working with. I wonder if he is a member of the local club I'm part of, the BC Z Car Registry. Also late yesterday I picked up the caster plates that I had a friend make. This was the only part I had to actually make for this project, I gave them a quick coat of primer last night and did a test fit this morning. My son will be helping me with final assembly tomorrow. I neglected to tell him that part of job was helping me clean up the garage as well. Lol

I will be sending my shell to the body shop soon, so I have been designing a support frame with casters that I can attach to the bottom of the chassis. I will use this to get the shell onto a deck truck for transport, and to use during the reassembly process. It is similar to what @inline6did, main difference with mine is that it is a fully bolted Unistrut construction, as I have no access to a welder at home. Here is an image of the final concept. This morning I finished doing some pre-assembly, test fits and checks for any missing any hardware. So far it has gone together without issue, kind of like the Meccano set I had as a kid. Here are a few pics, I will be completing this project over the weekend, and will post pics with it fully installed.