CanTechZ

They definitely are bad. I was still surprised at how easily an awl poked through.

Just received the funky green parts I ordered from Klassic Fab on Black Friday. Thanks to Gerson of @kfvintagejdm, for offering us these awesome parts. They will go a long way to fix the issues in the posts above. Here's one more reason why I need them..... 20211208_144651.mp4

Just checked the parts book, squarish one started Aug '73, it seems my theory above is incorrect.

It looks like it was changed when the 5" wide wheel was introduced in '72. In 70/71 it was 4.5" wide.

I found mine in the garage, here is a better pic with the rubber removed,

Here is the one from my 1970,

Why exclude the 2+2 cars when they were exported to and sold in the NA market? Others might be interested.

There is good info on the S30 range from 70 - 78 in the 1975 Nissan parts microfiche for North America, PUB. NO. C-0010U. For example this chart that shows the sub variants, with specs over this period,

I just came across this video with what seems to be an unbiased comparison of helicoils, timeserts and key locking type inserts. It's very long but shows some interesting results. I won't spoil it for you. Lol Cheers, Mike

I had some free time today so I decided to take apart the glove box from my 12'70 parts car to make a 3D model and flat patterns for templates. I also have a pristine glove box from the 7'70 I'm restoring. Between the two I should be able to do this quite accurately. I will upload the results to the cad files section in downloads on this site and also post updates here as I make progress. Here is what I have done so far...

Thanks for posting this, you just saved me $200 on the parts I have been thinking about buying. This sale made my decision much easier. Cheers, Mike

I ordered those (LH & RH) from Auto Panel Solutions in the UK. He makes a wide range of parts including the firewall and rad support areas and much more. Good guy to work with. You can find him on FB.

I made a purchase in Oct. 2020 but the parts are not yet fitted, I'm waiting for my body guy. Finish and quality appears very good. Here is a pic of the parts I got. I also got parts from Zedd Findings and APS in the UK. It looks like they should fit well together with the KF parts, time will tell.

Also their prices are quite reasonable including shipping cost. The one order I have placed with them came in on time, and was very well packaged.

Another great new addition from KF is their front lower frame rails. They look to have all of the correct contours including the small offset at the front for radiator clearance. The internal reinforcements look just like OE as well.

Thanks Ryan, I definitely agree with you about chassis rigidity I'm sure that whether I go with APS or KF it will make a big difference. Cheers, Mike

Last weekend prompted by @inline6's topic about preventing rust in Z's lower front fenders I decided to remove mine to do some investigating. here is a link to that thread: https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/66010-preventing-rust-in-the-zs-lower-front-fenders/#comments In addition to looking at the fenders, I did this to inspect areas that are hidden by the fenders, like the upper frame rails, AKA air horns, and get a good look at the firewall to frame rail area. And also the inner fender above the T/C box that very common for rust. Yesterday I removed the patches that had been installed on my first resto in 1982. My body guy back then did a quick and dirty job in that area, as I was on a very tight budget being a student, however didn't think it would be as shoddy as I have found. It's still fixable but will be a few more $$$. On the plus side the OE fenders I put on in 1982 are still in great condition. Here are a few pictures of what I found. I must caution you that some of the images are disturbing. Lol + Last year I purchased a pair of these repair parts for this area from Auto Panel Solutions in the UK, However I noticed that KF Vintage JDM now offers a full length repair option for this area that includes the pocket and reinforcement at the crossmember mount, which I need as well. Decisions, decisions? https://kfvintagejdm.com/shop/datsun/front-inner-fender-lower-repair-section-6-inches-right-side/

Funny how "temporary" is a relative term in "temporary repairs". Re: inspections, gotta love the thinking of government.

Oops, yes miles. Before the 1982 resto mine had a flapping fender as well, LOL. Here's what it looked like...

For reference here are some pictures of what my RH fender looked like when I removed it, before and after cleaning. When I did my first restoration on this car in 1982 and I had new fenders (from my local Datsun dealer) put on. No special sealing or rust proofing was done beyond what I think was a light prime and top coat over the factory primer. After 39 years only a small amount of debris had accumulated and after cleaning I found no paint bubbling and virtually no rust. I guess I'm one of the lucky ones. Full disclosure, since 1982 only about 25K miles have been added. After the first few years of light daily driving (no winters) it's been infrequent pleasure use only in good weather, but I have been caught in a few downpours.

This discussion got me wondering how much dirt and debris had collected in this area on my car. Since I'm working on a restoration, now was as good a time as any for the fenders to come off. While taking some before pictures it struck me that removing the mud guards in the front wheel wells makes it very easy to inspect and clean the area that @inline6is concerned about. In fact all that is really required is to remove the small rubber flap at the bottom of the mud guards. I checked and it is possible to remove and reinstall the mud guards with the fenders on, there are only three M6 hex head screws holding them on. The upper screw is the most difficult to reinstall with the fender on, but using a m6 screw with a point made it not to bad. The rubber flap is easy as it is held on with two sheet metal screws. I used a magnet to hold it in place while reinstalling.

Cold air for the vents comes from the front ahead of the rad support. Those rubber tubes are for the cowl drains, here is a good discussion on the subject. See post #6 by @Terrapin Z.

Good timing on your request, my 1970 propeller (drive) shaft is currently sitting on my workbench. I measured the "X" dim as 53.4mm and the "Y" dim as 44.9mm, using a digital caliper. To do direct center to center measurements I first zeroed the calipers on one of the holes, see pics below. The holes measured 8.10/8.15mm dimeter, clearance for an M8 bolt. Sorry I don't have a 260Z shaft.

I believe they are for inner fender liners, item 80 on this parts diagram. They were not on the 240Z's IIRC, so your fenders might have been replaced. I could be wrong, but I recall something about this on the forum previously.

Found this topic about windshields, @PrincePaulwhat is the source for the OEM windshield thickness of 6.76mm that you mention in the first post?